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| Equipment Wheelchairs, stimulators, and other devices |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: illinois, and no, chicago is not anywhere near where i live
Posts: 1,929
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I have q-rotors on my 2 larger crank gears, makes a big difference in having constant pressure for a full turn. With a normal round gear I find it is more like a push/pull stroke because of the dead spots.
from what i've read, crank length seems more of a preference and rideing conditions, using a shorter crank arm you can maintain faster cadence easier and use less strength/abuse on shoulders, especially on hills. being a lower level injury, you can more easily power through and I have tried 2 lengths and don't see much difference on flats. another reason is to use short crank arms to keep your elbow bent more so one isn't reaching so far when pedaling. I imagine on a force r crank lengths make more of a difference than when sitting more upright Last edited by jschism; 07-08-2012 at 04:32 PM. |
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: OHIO
Posts: 8,999
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Quote:
great to hear your training hard, nothing like having goals then crushing them. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: spain
Posts: 3,184
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ok, thank guys.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Blaine, Wa
Posts: 3,877
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JS is right on. If I remember, there were basically two styles of riders; powering thru the stroke or spinners. Bigger (slow Twitch) guys are more prone to powering thru the stroke while smaller bodied (fast twitch) and quads go more for cadence. John went from a 190 power cranklength to more of a spinners length; 165mm.
With you being such a low injury and smaller stature; other than double amps, you are the perfect wheeling machine so perhaps a length in the middle will give you power and cadence. 175's or 170's. You look strong so either would be great. If there are a lot of hills where you train; 170's. Flat course; 175's. Does your bike have vertical adjustment for crank height? The Q rings make a big difference. They'll save your shoulders and allow you to ride that many more years; I love 'em. They're made in Spain so may be a big plus for sponsorship or at least a discount. John, you did the work did, made the changes and it shows. What a difference from your first bike. Congrats buddy. Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 07-08-2012 at 06:51 PM. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 111
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Thanks Jschism, Fuentejps, and Patrick for the explanations and recommendation of the q-rotors and the length of the crankset arms for a quad
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 179
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John, how did you setup your Q rings? At what point in the rotation cycle did you choose to be your dead zone? I've looked at it from a regular bike aspect but curious as to the best translation/setup for a handcyclist. I've heard mixed reviews about the Q from other handcyclists. My conclusion is that for those using higher cadence less strength it does improve things, those that muscle through may not feel a difference.
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: illinois, and no, chicago is not anywhere near where i live
Posts: 1,929
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 179
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Yeah I get that part about no dead zone. I guess I should have asked, how is it oriented in relation to the angle of the crankarm. The ring is just an elipse. My brain just wonders what differences orienting the crank in relation to the oblong shape make. Are the crankarms longitudinal and Q ring laterally set up for optimum cranking? Is one way better than another for someone who would rather pull than push, vice versa? Just ramblings of my brain. I'm an engineer not a physicist so the nature of the elipse versus force exerted for a handcyclist has me intrigued. I'll go back and look at the upclose pics at bike-on.
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: illinois, and no, chicago is not anywhere near where i live
Posts: 1,929
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Quote:
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 179
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So the oblong q ring and crank make the angle in red, what angle/position optimizes the ring so that there is no dead zone? I would imagine you'd have to figure out your personal dead zone on a regular ring and go from there. Which is why I was curious as to how John approached the problem or if the bike-on guys just took it upon themselves.
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