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Thread: How to use 1.5" wide FrogLegs soft roll casters on a TiLite chair

  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    It is difficult to remove without damaging, but it will unscrew from the frame (I've actually replaced my original stem studs due to corrosion).

    The wide portion is 1/2" diameter and approximately 45 mm long (I don't know the pitch of the threads). The 11 mm long portion holds the 3/8-24 lock nut for the fork.

    When I originally did the swap, I used vice grips to unscrew the stem studs from the frame, then used my Dremel to smooth out any tool markings. Any corrosion protection used on the stem stud was lost in the process, however. Road salt and water worked its way in which lead to the corrosion.

    I installed the replacement stem studs without scratching them by putting on the lock nut for the fork, then turning the stem stud with a wrench. You could probably use a similar technique to remove the stem studs if you can find two thin 3/8-24 nuts which will both fit on the 11 mm long section (a second nut would be needed to keep the other from loosening if it is being turned counter clockwise with a wrench).

    Also, keep in mind that the underside of the TiLite fork has a recessed portion where the lock nut fits.
    O.K, so you have removed the stem, i thought that the stem was fixed with some special glue.
    So there is no problem for removed with a vice grips?
    If you do it again put some rubber of an old tube between the vice grips and your stem for don`t do tool marks.

    Thanks for the info.

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by totoL1 View Post
    I`m confused, if you said that it can`t loosend out, How you extracted 1/4"?
    And a few grames here and another few there are a lot of grames at the finally.
    That stem and the nut probably weight about 80 grames each side, if you replace for titanium the two stems will weight like one of the olders.

    If i get a ZR i assure you that it will go down in weight a pound as like comes from factory.
    I brought my ZR in to my local bike shop to do the modification. At first, the mechanic tried pulling the stem bolt out before realizing that it was threaded into to the housing. So that is what I meant when I said that it couldn't be loosened (wriggled) out.

    As far as weight goes, maybe someone at TiLite could actually weigh a stem bolt for you so you can make a determination as to whether it makes sense to go through all the bother. (Chances are they won't do this, but you could purchase a replacement bolt separately and weigh it yourself.)

  3. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by stephen212 View Post
    I brought my ZR in to my local bike shop to do the modification. At first, the mechanic tried pulling the stem bolt out before realizing that it was threaded into to the housing. So that is what I meant when I said that it couldn't be loosened (wriggled) out.

    As far as weight goes, maybe someone at TiLite could actually weigh a stem bolt for you so you can make a determination as to whether it makes sense to go through all the bother. (Chances are they won't do this, but you could purchase a replacement bolt separately and weigh it yourself.)
    O.K i understand know.
    I don`t need the weight of the bolt Stephen, because i`m not really interesting in the exactly weight, i will do it because i enjoy myself doing all these things in my free time, so if i enjoy myself and i lighten my chair, save it from rust, and give it a better appearance imo. Why no do it?

  4. #84
    Quote Originally Posted by totoL1 View Post
    O.K i understand know.
    I don`t need the weight of the bolt Stephen, because i`m not really interesting in the exactly weight, i will do it because i enjoy myself doing all these things in my free time, so if i enjoy myself and i lighten my chair, save it from rust, and give it a better appearance imo. Why no do it?
    I'm not sure why the bolt, presumably made from stainless steel, would rust or see how replacing it would improve the appearance of your chair, 'cause you can't see it. Do you have x-ray vision?

  5. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by totoL1 View Post
    O.K, so you have removed the stem, i thought that the stem was fixed with some special glue.
    So there is no problem for removed with a vice grips?
    Just Loctite.
    Quote Originally Posted by totoL1 View Post
    If you do it again put some rubber of an old tube between the vice grips and your stem for don`t do tool marks.
    Because of the Loctite and fine pitch of the threads, a lot of torque is required to turn the stem stud. There will be tool marks using vice grips. I have a set of vice grips with modified jaws (teeth ground down and coated with Plasti Dip). They would be useless in this application.

    The clamping force required to grip the stem stud would also pinch right through any piece of tube.

    Two thin nuts and a wrench would be the only way to remove it undamaged.

    I'm with Stephen when it comes to the benefits of modifying it versus the risks. The benefits of being able to use 4x1.5" wide aluminum hub soft rolls on my chair far outweighed the risks of doing this once or twice. My chair was somewhat endo-prone and it was difficult to keep my feet on the footrest with the 4x.75 Volcanic roller blades I ordered on my chair.

    On the chairs I spec'd out for veterans, however, I only did one chair with this modification (and not until after I had used mine for a year without any major problems and had replaced them once). Wth every other ZR or ZRa which had a 16-17" seat depth and an 85 degree front frame, I either recommended 5x1" billet aluminum soft rolls or going with a 1" longer frame to minimize the possibility of getting an endo-prone chair.

    What you intend to do will require the bolt to be loosened/tightened on a much more frequent basis (e.g. whenever you clean or change the fork bearings). Titanium is a strong metal, but it isn't perfect. If the "bullet caster housing" were to crack or the bolt were to sheer off inside of it, you could have a major problem on your hands which would almost certainly not be covered under warranty.

  6. #86
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    i've had froglegs on all my chairs and they have fallen apart but frogslegs have replaced the wheels everytime for me, free of charge so i'm still a fan of them.

  7. #87
    Quote Originally Posted by stephen212 View Post
    I'm not sure why the bolt, presumably made from stainless steel, would rust or see how replacing it would improve the appearance of your chair, 'cause you can't see it. Do you have x-ray vision?
    If the bolt is made of stainless steel i can`t explain why the ZR that i`m going to try in my thread have got rust, maybe is the nut.

    I think you would never understand me, I suppose that i`m a weird guy, jeje.
    I`m going to try to explain it to you.
    You wouldn`t see it, but i will see it everytime i pick up the chair into the car and i will know that i`ve got it.
    My chair for me is very important, it`s like another of my clothes, and i like going with clean and good clothes, so the chair have to be the same.

    An example is, what you prefer to wear? a cheap jeans or a Levi`s, i don`t know you, but i prefer Levi`s, why? if you can`t see the label which is in the back.

    So you would not see it, but i will be happier knowing that i have it and i will feel more attractive going in a customized and clean ZR.

  8. #88
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    Just Loctite.

    Two thin nuts and a wrench would be the only way to remove it undamaged.

    I'm with Stephen when it comes to the benefits of modifying it versus the risks. The benefits of being able to use 4x1.5" wide aluminum hub soft rolls on my chair far outweighed the risks of doing this once or twice. My chair was somewhat endo-prone and it was difficult to keep my feet on the footrest with the 4x.75 Volcanic roller blades I ordered on my chair.

    What you intend to do will require the bolt to be loosened/tightened on a much more frequent basis (e.g. whenever you clean or change the fork bearings). Titanium is a strong metal, but it isn't perfect. If the "bullet caster housing" were to crack or the bolt were to sheer off inside of it, you could have a major problem on your hands which would almost certainly not be covered under warranty.
    It`s not sure that i will change it, i`m only exploring the possibilities.
    If the bearings of the forks are sealed i don`t think they will need to be replaced in a long time, i never do it in my GTX(they are sealed) with near 3 years old.
    Maybe it will be a better option only change the nuts

  9. #89
    Quote Originally Posted by totoL1 View Post
    It`s not sure that i will change it, i`m only exploring the possibilities.
    If the bearings of the forks are sealed i don`t think they will need to be replaced in a long time, i never do it in my GTX(they are sealed) with near 3 years old.
    Maybe it will be a better option only change the nuts
    The stem stud is not made of stainless steel--hence the corrosion.

    The fork bearings are not exposed a much to the elements on a Quickie compared to TiLite or Top End. There is only a round disk above the bearings to protect them from the elements on the TiLite or Top End design.

  10. #90
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    The stem stud is not made of stainless steel--hence the corrosion.
    .
    O.K If the stem isn`t made of stainless stell i will contemplate the possibility of change it for a titanium bolt if i buy a ZR.

    The stem unscrew like normal bolts? , to the counter clockwise?

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