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Thread: '93 Vantage Plymouth Voyager, actuator broke...know how to jerry-rig it?

  1. #1

    Unhappy '93 Vantage Plymouth Voyager, actuator broke...know how to jerry-rig it?

    ok, here's the deal: im getting a new van in 2-3 mos. the other day the actuator on my mini-van, it deploys and undeploys the ramp automatically, broke. my shop says i need a new actuator and it'll cost $830. i really cant afford that. so i have 2 options:

    1) use my credit card or savings $ for my new van to fix it...

    or

    2) dont fix it and/or jerry-rig it. the shop wont jerry-rig it though. they say its impossible, but i think theyre only saying that for liability purposes. does anyone here know how to jerry-rig an actuator so i can get the ramp to go up/down without anyone helping me lift it out? otherwise im screwed when it comes to driving alone for the rest of the summer.

    help!

    i reside in the fair city of minneapolis. any local fix-it guy extrordinaire recommendations highly desired

    ps. when it broke the other day the arm that goes up to pull the ramp up, was stuck and simply wouldnt budge FOR NOTHING when we hit the button to shut the door. maybe the arm was just misaligned? i really dont think the entire actuator died.
    May the fetus you save be gay

  2. #2
    $830 is - you can buy a brand new electric linear actuator that fits the necessary specs for likely $125-175 - and that's on the high end for name brands (e.g. Autoloc).

    Got a pic of it by any chance? If the ram/bore/arm/whatever is bent, you probably can't jerry-rig it.

  3. #3
    i'll go take a pic later today. i have a digi-cam, just cant get in on my own without someone here.

    are u sure on that price? i have a regular vantage conversion from the year '93. dont know the actuator brand they used though. the guy was surprised by the price too. he thought it'd be only $500, but had to call me the price was much higher.
    May the fetus you save be gay

  4. #4
    i have braun conversion on a caravan, also '93. if the actuator looks anything like mine & just has the typical mounting spots on each end, then yeah, I don't see any reason a third-party unit wouldn't work, providing all the specs matched up. You just need something that works

    looks like these guys raised their prices some, but still... def. not $500 & I'm sure other places would have something similar for less:

    http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/AutoL...sso?itemid=LA4

  5. #5
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    Look under Power Transmission, and Actuators. Helps knowing the model number of what you got so the specs can be determined.

  6. #6
    i have a warner electric actuator. here are pics i took of it tonight.
    May the fetus you save be gay

  7. #7
    any idea where exactly on my actuator the model # will be located?
    May the fetus you save be gay

  8. #8
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Good question, seems to be re-labeled or un-labeled. Maybe there are some numbers stamped on it somewhere? One thing for sure the ramp maker didnt make the actuator, so going through them isnt necessary, or as expensive factoring in the markup. The key is figuring out what you have. I'm thinking taking measurements and comparing them to the linear actuators on the mcmaster site will help to figure out what it is also.

    Edit: On your picture #2, on the horizontal flat portion of the motor housing, is that a rectangular data tag on it?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy
    One thing for sure the ramp maker didnt make the actuator, so going through them isnt necessary, or as expensive factoring in the markup. The key is figuring out what you have. I'm thinking taking measurements and comparing them to the linear actuators on the mcmaster site will help to figure out what it is also.
    I agree w/ Andy. Again, all you need is something that works. If you can get the length of the unit when fully retracted, plus an idea of the stroke length (i.e. how far the inside bore extends), 10:1 says you can just swap in another actuator - won't even have to match exactly. Most will run on a 12v current, and should be simple to wire into your existing setup. Unless you have something to make the ramp deployment a one-touch operation (i.e. you don't have to hold the switch down while it does its thing), it'll be an easy swap & shouldn't require any crazy wiring.

  10. #10
    I've seen two Braun lifts with the same Warner actuator, and I found one that operates on 110 at a scrap yard. I'm not sure but they are all pretty much the same except for the length of stroke and if it's 12 volt or 110. I think they are just a worm and screw drive. I'd be willing to bet the motor is the problem. Just like the lift companies don't make actuators, I doubt the actuator company makes motors. The motor looks like a windshield wiper or power window motor to me. This is example of where you're are supposed to bypass the "the wheelchair van guy" and take it to someone who has basic mechanical knowledge and won't rip you a new one.

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