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Thread: Specifying frame length on Tilite Order Form

  1. #1

    Specifying frame length on Tilite Order Form

    In the process of ordering a Tilite TR as my new daily driver. But the Dealer (and me) is having trouble with specifying some of the dimensions. Namely Seat length and frame length. For me the seat should be 14" but I need the frame to come out to my knees approx 20. I know the bend in the frame takes some length as well. I doubt that much tho.How do I specify that on an order form?

  2. #2
    Call Tilite and ask them. Then get a CAD drawing of the chair before you commit to the order.

  3. #3
    I dont live in America (I live in Australia) so I have to rely on dealers who dont have direct access to TiLite because of Timezone differences and such. I would like to get this right in as few changes as possible so I'm not shelling out cash on more CAD revisions because of a lack of knowledge on my part. I've never owned a Tilte and their order forms dont have an option to choose frame depth as well as seat depth. I know if you were able to draw it out in CAD taking into account RSH, FSH, Seat depth and front frame angle you might be able to establish these dimensions on your own, But I dont have CAD.

  4. #4
    TiLite's order form and CAD specify the following:

    1. seat depth - front of the back rest to the front of the seat upholstery.
    2. frame depth - front of the back rest to where the front angle bend starts (may be less than or greater than seat depth)
    3. use occupied depth - front of the back rest to the front of the footplate.

    You want to specify the distance from the front of the back rest to the front of the down tube. This will be equal to the user occupied depth for a 90 degree front angle bend. It gets more involved if the front angle bend is not 90 degrees.

  5. #5
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    Feb 2010
    Gold Coast Australia
    I see seat depth and height as well as front frame angle. but no frame depth. Must be implied by the other dimensions.
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  6. #6
    Where is User Occupied Depth in the order form? I cant see it either.

  7. #7
    Frame depth is under seat depth section and also on the CAD. User occupied depth is on the CAD only. Because TiLite prefers to specify it themselves. But you can request it by marking up a CAD. I did that and they built it accordingly.

    By the way, TiLite has two different standards for frame depth. On the order form, they specify it as the distance from the front of the seat sling to the beginning of the front angle bend. On the CAD they specify it as the distance from the front of the back rest to the beginning of the front angle bend. Either way it comes down to the same thing - where the front angle bend begins.

    Here's the CAD for my most recent chair. I want minimal fame depth tubing. Because any more than necessary gets in the way of transfers. Hence I specified a negative frame depth and 78 degree front angle bend. They didn't readily accept the negative frame depth because they said it made the user occupied depth too short, which makes the chair forward tippy. I explained that concern applies for a 90 degree bend but not a 78 degree bend. They accepted it and built it accordingly. Point is that you have to be in the know. Otherwise you may get a compromised design. I found that out the hard way from giving too much choice to others for past chairs. This chair I insisted on it being built my way. Of course, that means taking responsibility for it.

    I would still consult the "experts" before deciding.
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    Last edited by August West; 01-31-2020 at 08:50 AM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Oddity's Avatar
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    That's an interesting choice August. I like it. I'd fit perfectly into that chair (except it's too low for my tastes.) Has me thinking though. A wider front end that doesn't stick out far is much easier to transfer over lap in a car. I don't use frame to transfer, I use the outer wheel. What do you use to transfer if not the frame tube, since you've tucked it out of the way?
    "I have great faith in fools; self-confidence my friends call it." - Edgar Allen Poe

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  9. #9
    I transfer with one closed fist planted on the front corner of the seat cushion and the other closed fist planted on the seat that I am transfering to. If you grab the wheel then you are extending your shoulder more than necessary. If you use the down tube, you are sacrafing height. I use a ride cushion that is 4" tall. I don't sink in because it is hard foam. Hence the height difference between the top of the cushion and the seat tube is always 4". That's way too much clearance to give up and results in unnecessary stress on my shoulder. It's different with a Roho. Because you sink into the cushion, you're not giving up much height. Using the wheel is out of the question for me. Because it extends my shoulder. By placing my first at the corner of the seat cushion, I have minimal shoulder extension through the transfer.

    A closed fist enables your hand angle to shift naturally as your body position changes through the transfer thus preventing injury that might happen if you're holding onto something like a tube or wheel.

  10. #10
    By the way, I had a tall chair. I figured it would help my shoulders by decreasing reach distance and make it easier to communicate with taller people. Well, it did make it easier to communicate with taller people. But it backfired with the shoulders resulting in overuse injury.

    While it did make it easier to reach items on shelves and such, it made it harder on the shoulders to push and transfer. Because as you increase seat height, you use more shoulder and less arm muscles (think short choppy motions instead of long smoother motions). That has much more toll on the shoulder than reaching.

    Since I have gone back to a lower seating position, I have offloaded much of the shoulder work to my arms. That's helping recover the shoulders from constant overuse injury they were subject to over the previous 5 years in the taller chair.

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