Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: 0 vs 2 degrees of camber?

  1. #21
    Senior Member ChesBay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Coastal Virginia
    Posts
    1,692
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    Will never go back to camber again. I'm not a jock anymore and like the narrower footprint with more space between the wheel and frame. Toe in/out is not a big factor either with 0o though I do check for it every so often.
    I?m similar to what Patrick has said with 0o camber. Years ago had 2 degrees but getting along fine with 0.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Oddity View Post
    My 16" TiLite with 2deg camber with Spinergy LX X-Laced wheels is 24" wide from push rim to push rim at the widest point on the bottom (not 26") and 22.25" push rim to push rim at the widest point on top. Seems different than your measurements.
    There are 5 variables: seat depth, axle spacing, tab length, wheel diameter (and to some degree the tire), and camber. You listed only 2 of these 5 variables. Account for the rest and it should be consistent.

    Do you have 0.5" axle spacing, short tabs, and 24" wheels? That would be approximately 24".

    The 26" width applies after you increase axle spacing due to the top of the wheels rubbing against your legs.

    Bottom line is that 2 degrees camber adds 1.5" width for a nominal adult chair plus another 1.5" after you have to adjust axle spacing.

    Your chair could be 22.5" without camber, which would enable you to clear the 23" opening of 24" door.
    Last edited by August West; 02-01-2020 at 03:30 AM.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Oddity View Post
    My 16" TiLite with 2deg camber with Spinergy LX X-Laced wheels is 24" wide from push rim to push rim at the widest point on the bottom (not 26") and 22.25" push rim to push rim at the widest point on top...
    24" should be too wide to go through a so called 24" doorway because the 24 refers to the door and not the actual clear opening. Door stops are likely to take up an inch, 1/2" each side and the door itself gets in the way. On top of that I have doorways I should be easily pass through but since they are hallway located, turning to make enough of a right angle approach makes the doorway seem smaller.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    See my previous post for explanation.
    Your explanation, which I believe is correct, indicates the width at the top is 23 inches regardless of camber angle. That's true because when the angle is changed, the axle length is changed to compensate, either longer or shorter depending on whether the camber angle is being increased or decreased. Of course, if someone changed the camber angle without changing the axle length, the width at the top the wheel would change but it wouldn't make any sense to do that. The tires would either rub at the top if the camber was increased or have an unnecessarily large gap at the top if the camber was decreased.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by endo_aftermath View Post
    Your explanation, which I believe is correct, indicates the width at the top is 23 inches regardless of camber angle. That's true because when the angle is changed, the axle length is changed to compensate, either longer or shorter depending on whether the camber angle is being increased or decreased. Of course, if someone changed the camber angle without changing the axle length, the width at the top the wheel would change but it wouldn't make any sense to do that. The tires would either rub at the top if the camber was increased or have an unnecessarily large gap at the top if the camber was decreased.
    Exactly! You want the top the wheel to remain as close to your thigh as possible without rubbing regardless of camber angle. Hence, you have to adjust the axle each time you adjust camber. That seems to be a detail that has been overlooked by some.

  6. #26
    Senior Member NW-Will's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA USA - - Male T4 ASIA B incomplete
    Posts
    1,820
    Great explanation.

    It's not my thighs that the camber is rubbing up against but my rear seat back canes. Have to have around 1/4 to 1/2" clearance at the rear canes ... until I get around to fabricating "endomorphed" rear canes, technical term shared with me by one or the reps. basically making your rear canes narrower than the seat pan of your chair cause of fat thighs etc..

    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    Either you make it through the doorway or you don't. Not subtle when you can't because of camber.

    Keep in mind that when you add camber two things happen: 1) the distance between wheels increases at the bottom of the wheels, and 2) the distance between wheels decreases at the top of the wheels.

    For example, you have 16" seat width, 1" wheel spacing, 0 camber, 25 inch wheels and long tabs. The result is that the width of the wheels is 23" at the top and bottom. Now, let's say you add 2 degrees camber. The results are as follows:

    1. width at the bottom of the wheel = 24.5"
    2. width at the top of the wheel = 21.5"

    You're not done. Because the top of the wheels are closer together, they are rubbing against your thighs. To restore the same clearance you had before, you have to increase the axle spacing by 3/4". The results are as follows:

    1. width at the bottom of the wheel = 26"
    2. width at the top of the wheel = 23"

    Going from 23" wide to 24.5" is bad enough. You just eliminated clearance through a standard 24" doorway. Going to 26" is ridiculous IMO.

  7. #27
    Senior Member NW-Will's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Vancouver WA USA - - Male T4 ASIA B incomplete
    Posts
    1,820
    It was more an unplanned, undocumented feature of having camber on the wheels. When I go back to my chair with zero degrees camber, I forget until I whack my knuckles, my knuckles add a good 1.5" to my width . I agree if I was to be in my zero camber chair all the time I would pay attention more ..

    Quote Originally Posted by Tetracyclone View Post
    I use 0 camber and have one very tight doorway. When going through it I simply pull on the door frame without putting my hands on the wheels or hand rims. I have to wipe off the woodwork every weeks. so what?

    I'm in a 16 inch chair and reach down quite often to get things off the floor. Tipping used to be avoided by putting one hand back on a wheel, but as legs got stronger (about 10 years post) I push own with my feet for 3 post stability- butt and 2 feet.

Similar Threads

  1. WANTED: 15" and 16" camber tubes, preferably 0, 2, or 3 degrees camber
    By lacesoutvic in forum Equipment & Services
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 06-14-2013, 09:55 PM
  2. 4° TiLite camber tube - $20TiLite camber
    By Donno in forum Equipment & Services
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-19-2012, 06:38 PM
  3. Fs: Tilite Carbon Fiber Camber Tube - 4 Degrees
    By blckchns in forum Equipment & Services
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-05-2009, 06:21 PM
  4. Two or four degrees of camber, pictures?
    By Brianm in forum Equipment
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-08-2009, 07:16 PM
  5. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 01-20-2004, 04:55 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •