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Thread: Adding spacers to rear wheels of TiLite X

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    IMO (50 yrs auto tech) the threads on the inserts look fine.
    The inside threads on the tubes looks kind of normal for aluminum.
    That doesn't mean all is good! I recommend pragmatic approach: find someone with a grinder with a fine wire wheel on and clean out the male threads on it.
    If you have a machinist's scribe handy (every mechanic has one. I even have one in my toothbrush holder for cleaning teeth), try putting the angled point into the start of the threads of the tube and work it around, as you run it down in the thread groove. This will remove a fair amount of the black thread-locker. You might also try using some carburetor cleaner aerosol (which is basically lacquer thinner). Some thread lockers are solvable in this. Leaving the threads wet with this may also be helpful.
    If all this fails, then you'll need to find a tap of this size and clean out the tube with it. It will likely be an oddball tap; looks to be quite a small pitch for the diameter!
    If you can source a spare insert, you can slice it with a hacksaw or skinny carbide wheel. You'll want the cuts to present a <90* angle to the tube-threads. This then becomes the poor man's thread chaser tap.
    I think a new camber tube with inserts is fairly cheap, $100us?
    Thanks for the input!! So you think it's more a matter of the thread locker being gunked in there than anything with the threads themselves?

    At any rate, I'd say $100 is well worth it to avoid all that labor requiring some manual dexterity... that I severe,y lack. My local NuMotion **claims** to take walk-ins (or roll-ins) - I guess I should probably give that a shot before anything else.

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  2. #12
    s#@t!! I just looked at the axel sleeve from an overhead view and it appears to be a bit misshapen - it kind of juts out a little at 12:00 and 6:00. could this be the culprit? https://photos.app.goo.gl/872pQ1wiY578xC14A If so, I don't suppose a set of needle nose pliers will be sufficient to fix?

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    *** c4/c5 incomplete *** Injured in Summer 2003 ***
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  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by daveh0 View Post
    s#@t!! I just looked at the axel sleeve from an overhead view and it appears to be a bit misshapen - it kind of juts out a little at 12:00 and 6:00. could this be the culprit? https://photos.app.goo.gl/872pQ1wiY578xC14A If so, I don't suppose a set of needle nose pliers will be sufficient to fix?
    Just woke. Good images Dave - thanks.
    Yes I saw that and it could(?) have occurred when it was a spare before assembly into the axle tube. (I assume that the axle sleeve and camber plugs are factory pre-assemble units fitted to the tube).
    Or it is from action of the axle detente balls -.
    Pliers will have no effect except to possibly screw up the thread and or bore.
    Anyhoo, Phil has explained well how to attend to the threadlock that is in the thread root - ideally you should remove this first before attempting to reinsert. The deformation may or may not be the problem- remove by filing (only) that specific thread section. You will not need to remove much and this action will not have any detrimental effect on your safety.
    If you have lack of time, equipment and physical dexterity then get down to your local NuMotion - they should have capable workshop staff.
    The use of the threadlocker is twofold.
    To secure the components and to prevent possible corrosion.

    When assembling stainless steel and aluminium components, it is important that some form of 'barrier' is used to prevent galvanic action, electrolysis.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by slow_runner; 08-13-2019 at 04:52 PM.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by slow_runner View Post
    Just woke. Good images Dave - thanks.
    Yes I saw that and it would have occurred when it was a spare before assembly into the axle tube. (I assume that the axle sleeve and camber plugs are factory pre-assemble units fitted to the tube).
    Pliers will have no effect except to possibly screw up the thread and or bore.
    Anyhoo, Phil has explained well how to attend to the threadlock that is in the thread root - ideally you should remove this first before attempting to reinsert. The deformation may or may not be the problem- remove by filing (only) that specific thread section. You will not need to remove much and this action will not have any detrimental effect on your safety.
    If you have lack of time, equipment and physical dexterity then get down to your local NuMotion - they should have capable workshop staff.
    The use of the threadlocker is twofold.
    To secure the components and to prevent possible corrosion.

    When assembling stainless steel and aluminium components, it is important that some form of 'barrier' is used to prevent galvanic action, electrolysis.

    Gotcha - i'm in the midst of cleaning out all the gunk in the threads of the axel sleeve with a pointy shishkabob skewer... it's gonna take a minute. If that doesn't work, I'll see if rolling in on one wheel gets me any better service than in the past at NuMotion tomorrow. I typically like to save up my difficult or tedious favors from friends (not that they see it like that) for bigger deals than this char, but maybe it's time......

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    *** c4/c5 incomplete *** Injured in Summer 2003 ***
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  5. #15
    Deformation here which would explain the difficulty you explained.Maybe the factory deliberately stake/clinch the thread ?

    Get your mates involved sooner than later. If you are reluctant about asking favours, don't be. This is one of those minor but major jobs.
    You are buggered without your wheels Dave.
    Arrange to get a couple of beers in and crank up the barbie -AFTER the job is done
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by slow_runner; 08-13-2019 at 05:20 PM.

  6. #16
    ooooooh ok, i didn't even catch that. i do know that that axel sleeve has been replaced before... not sure about the plug. this is my beater/travel chair otherwise my friends (beer, bbq and all) would have been recruited long ago. Looks like this is bigger than me tho... i guess the go-to crew is getting a call after my very low-expectation visit to NuMotion tomorrow. Thanks again!!

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    *** c4/c5 incomplete *** Injured in Summer 2003 ***
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  7. #17
    Nice catch on the warped thread SR. That part just needs to be filed or ground off. There will be plenty of threads and length left. I have an old Tilite axle tube here with both inserts. At one time I removed them and finger tightened them back in place. There is no distortion and no loctite, just a fyi. Sorry I can't just hand one off to you.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    Nice catch on the warped thread SR. That part just needs to be filed or ground off. There will be plenty of threads and length left. I have an old Tilite axle tube here with both inserts. At one time I removed them and finger tightened them back in place. There is no distortion and no loctite, just a fyi. Sorry I can't just hand one off to you.
    I just finished patching my Roho and while waiting for the cure I thought I would drop in.
    The nice catch is thanks to Dave for putting up a comprehensive range of images.
    That distorted thread will give the symptoms that Dave spoke of. As we know, it will damage the aluminium so best dealt with now. Just some judicious work with a smooth file and cleaning the threads will sort it.
    My camber tube I made mention of requires quite a bit more attention than Daves' unit .
    Last edited by slow_runner; 08-13-2019 at 08:45 PM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Mister mechanic checking in. What a loser! How did I miss the photo! Good call!
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
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  10. #20

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    Mister mechanic checking in. What a loser! How did I miss the photo! Good call!
    Nah, not a loser. We are all working on a solution for Dave and learning together.
    Besides, I had my Opti-Visor to aid my old eyes
    Your advice was very worthy Phil, the thread seal needed clearing out too, remember. And making people aware of the value of a hacksaw blade and a file to jerry up a thread chaser or die nut will no doubt stand in good stead for others not aware of these tricks.
    On a related side note.
    I remember putting a cam into my FXST ( the stock original had 0.050" end float ) and NOT cleaning out the propriety HD gunk of the timing case cover fasteners. You know that sound when something yields, akin to shifting bearings in a press? It was like that; I split the casing fastener boss; I had to resort to tapping the thread deeper, fitting a stud and using Loctite for porous castings to seal that split.
    Lesson learnt, I haven't done that twice
    Last edited by slow_runner; 08-14-2019 at 07:19 AM.

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