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Thread: Braun lift install

  1. #11
    My case had to go up to the National level to get satisfaction when my van was fitted with the wrong size dropfloor. I had been working with Patrick Pitcher. He opened a case file and went up from there.
    Patrick Pitcher <Patrick.Pitcher@braunability.com>

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by heartdog View Post
    So I showed them all the issues, and got the finishing work done. They just put some carpet over the metal, and cut some of my original plastic step cover. Looks ok. They said that the screeching is the lift "breaking in". And all the scrapes and scratches happened in transit, it came that way. Which makes me wonder how banged up it got, that maybe parts are not aligning, as it rattles like a mofo. I know that you're supposed to let the compression work, so I fold it in and extend that a second to get it tight. But it still rattles badly. Like REALLY badly. It's finicky, and half the time the barrier won't go up and hence the lift. I'll have to press several times, or make it go down more, then try. All super annoying, especially what kind of money this all cost, and the time it took. 4 weeks. Crazy. I contacted Braun, and they're going to reach out to me. Hopefully that will help get this fixed.
    I have not had but 7 lifts, so I ain't expert. But, none started out with scratches, scrapes, etc. All those were done my Mama and I over the years. Rattles, those come after years of use. That is what stow-lock solenoid is for locking it in place so not to let drift while traveling in vehicle down the road. Now after years or hard, frequent use may help increase speed of rattles but not on brand new lift.
    If we let lift/van sit in Oklahoma heat closed up a couple weeks they squeak when deploying but a few sprays of sslicone lube on cylinder arms when fully exposed and cycling through full functions take cae of when rubber squeaks from them drying out alot quicker than just letting loosen up from cycling without lube. Roll-gates should wor properly until age gets better of them. But again few sprays of lube at needed points helps but should not be needed on a new lift.
    If having problems with controls, are the connections good? You mean buttons or lift is stopping short of fully "Deploy" to engage limit switch to engage "Down" function. Again, new lift should come to you fully set for the cam and switches are in proper positions to engage perfectly.
    After years, like mine, yea cycling acouple times is normal unless get limit switches fine tuned or replaced.
    Braun lift unless changed recently the two adjustment screws are exposed on inside of vehicle side of lift. I use Ricons so have take driver side tower cover off to get access to those and the stow-lock solenoid is located on passenger outside side of lift under a small cover with connection to floor lock in middle of floor plate. Usually floor plate is problem when lift lock not working properly.
    Again, I ain't a Tech, learned most here and after our usual lift shop sold to national change. I really think national chair make most of their money by half **Blanking** repairs so you back in shortly with new "tessting" service charge to go along with repairs!!
    Off my soapbox! "Sorry!"

  3. #13
    Thanks MikeP. I was in conversation with a lift dealer/installer in another state, and he echoed this. Should not rattle, should also be flat when going down and hitting ground. It's sagging considerably, which makes the barrier hit first, and scrape to flat. He said most likely it's not supported properly. Crap. Shouldn't screech of course, and be touchy with closing the barrier. It's not aligned right, too. I feel bad though, because this IS a good place, and lots of happy clients for many years. However, I don't think they do many full size vans, or for sure Transits. There is a certification for people working on Ford vans. I didn't know that.
    Now I have to try and deal with this. I feel like they're not going to fix it unless I get Braun involved. They're saying it's all normal.

  4. #14
    definitely go up the ladder at braun. the squeaky wheel gets the grease
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  5. #15
    Get Braun involved. I sent a van for conversion to Braun. It came back with a 13" drop floor rather than the 10" I was expecting. Even the billing to my insurance and myself stated it was for a Braun fold out ramp; which is a 10" drop. The Fold out XT is the 13" drop. An obvious mistake on, more than likely, the dealer. I had spoken with a Braun rep for close to a year when deciding who to go with. He wrote and asked how it was going with the new van. I told him the story and the dealer was not going to remedy the situation. He opened a case file where it reached the National level. I obviously had a case as they gave the dealer a 5 grand credit with my also paying an extra amount to get what I wanted. The one I sent was a 2018 and all that was available were 2019's. Hence the extra 3 grand on my part plus and extra 2 grand for really nice leather.

    Without Braun stepping in, the dealer wouldn't have done anything to remedy the situation. He has a reputation for that. You should have gotten Braun involved right away. I suggest you do so now, hope it's not too late. The only regret I have is getting the foldout rather than infloor. The setup is great, just the ramp is so long I find myself getting stuck due to ether the crosshatch space in H/C parking is too narrow or someone parks over the lines. I may end up getting it cut down or in the least, get the side rail of the ramp cut down so I can jump over it. I want to check first that it won't void the warranty. The guy I worked with was Patrick Pitcher at Braun.

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