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Thread: Quickie Shadow handcycle

  1. #41
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
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    I will look and see if I have any. I also think Smity said something about parts SR could have off his bike from the upgrades
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    Took a look in the parts box and must have given the handgrips away SR.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by djrolling View Post
    I will look and see if I have any. I also think Smity said something about parts SR could have off his bike from the upgrades
    Djrolling you are definitely the exception. That is a ton of miles. I'm in contact with sr through email trying to see if I can help.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by smity50 View Post
    Hey slow runner, As long as your chain doesn't have seized links it will be fine. The worry with worn chains and chain rings is that your chain could "skip" or jump teeth. Arm cyclists don't produce enough torque to have to worry about skipping.
    Good morning Smity. There is a complete absence of any seized links; plenty of very loose pin/link connections though. Comparing this chain to a new one off my wifes Metro22 it is very much a chalk and cheese difference. For my peace of mind, a new chain is required, although from initial searches it appears that I may have to join two chains to get the required links.
    Is that your experience?
    P.S - I have replied to your email just previously.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    Took a look in the parts box and must have given the handgrips away SR.
    No problem Patrick, you have done a kindly thing for another. Cheers,
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-15-2019 at 04:12 PM.

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by djrolling View Post
    On mine, you put it in first gear and there is a button you push to disengage it and pull it straight off. See pic below.

    Depending on how much you ride and the terrain a handcyclest will indeed wear out a chain and Chainrings if they do not keep the chain changed out when it gets enough wear on it the chainring starts to wear. In the picture, you can see the two on the left have worn. The last one I had almost no teeth in one spot I have worn a few down. I do not have all the ones I have worn down. If I can find a pic of the one off my current handbike I will include it you can see the teeth on one spot are almost gone.
    After a quick search on the internet and that combined with my own experince, I would say that the chainring and cassette will last an easy 10000 miles and or more if the chain is maintained and changed when it should be. That reminds me I need to buy a tool to keep tabs on my chain wear. That being said if you are a gearhead and a bit obsessive over things being precise then you will probably find yourself changing out the chainring and gear cassette more often.
    I cycle as a mode of transportation any and all chances I get as well as for fun and fitness. Most years I rack up 7000 miles or more so maybe I am the exception on wearing out parts.
    You certainly walk the talk DJ, that is some wear on those chainrings. You do extract every ounce of use too

    I measured my chain links with my verniers and I think that the chain exceeds the acceptable wear limits by a large factor; maybe it is the original chain?. The amount of corrosion on the links would suggest that.
    The person I bought this cycle off had a newer TopEnd. This Quickie was relegated to the woodshed out back. Pulled out for fun when relatives or friends came over.
    It will have a better life here with me

    I am so looking forward to going on rides with my wife.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-15-2019 at 04:51 PM.

  5. #45
    Received a further response from Sun Medical. The date of MFG for my Shadow is Jan 29, 1996.
    So, we were close with dating this cycle Patrick.
    There is no further information available at this time re where it was manufactured or what material the frame is constructed from.
    Maybe all very anal but I like to know these things if I can. Also, it may be of interest or helpful to others.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-15-2019 at 06:01 PM.

  6. #46
    I tweeked the wheel spokes yesterday, a few were loose, and non of them sang when tapped. The wheel runs quite true now and the spokes sound better.
    Today I will strip down the Sachs hub for a well deserved service. Thank goodness for You Tube, especially this series of 4 videos by Martin Stein.
    They are non- verbal and very clear illustrations IMO. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDZSpbcVTTI

    I will need to see if I have suitable lubricants on my shelf that will work well.
    Any suggestions ???

  7. #47
    In '96 it was either aluminum or Chrome Molly. Pretty sure it was aluminum by then. In the States it was California. If they were made in Europe, it more than likely was Germany after they bought Supor out.
    No anal about it SR. I'm the same way. Good luck on Sachs rebuild.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    In '96 it was either aluminum or Chrome Molly. Pretty sure it was aluminum by then. In the States it was California. If they were made in Europe, it more than likely was Germany after they bought Supor out.
    No anal about it SR. I'm the same way. Good luck on Sachs rebuild.
    It is all metal, so perhaps Chromoly.
    I will be giving the frame a cut to rejuvenate the paintl not much to do about the blistering powdercoat(?) except sand and blend for now.
    I will be moving fast, no one will get a close look of the paint job .

    The S7 is in its component bits now. Soaking overnight in kero then a wash in acetone before assembly.
    All went well until I removed the plug that retains the mainshaft internal spring and selector. I had it all under control, didn't I?
    Spoing! went the spring and I caught the movement of the retainer plug going toward the grass lawn.
    Keep calm.. I carried on finishing the cleaning with a mind to devoting an hour or two, scouring the lawn with a neomagnet for that small item. An impossible task but necessary.
    I rolled back in my chair to get some clean kero, looked down and there it was on the ground
    What a lucky break. It is plastic and no amount of searching with a magnet was going to find that little bugger.
    It was a big relief, I can tell you.

    The S7 is in very good condition and that might be expected given that it would not have had heavy torque loads put on it nor likely not much work.
    I have some good quality moly grease and some Penrite gearbox oil that I think will fulfill the lube requirements.
    I will check out the races tomorrow under good light and purchase some new balls from the local transmission shop (not autos)
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-18-2019 at 03:13 AM.

  9. #49
    More cleaning of the parts. On closer inspection there was still a lot of hard deposits in the root of the gear teeth and other pieces so I got to it with a box cutter blade. Went up to the bearing shop for some 3/16" and 7/32" balls.
    The bearing races are Star #0103-251 (7 x 7/32"), #0103-248(12 x 3/16"), #0103-253( 14 x 3/16")
    Then, 'where is my Acetone?' I looked high and low before I found it. Parts are soaking now ready for assembly tomorrow.
    I ground off the Shimano chainring. Then with daylight fading fast it was time to pack up.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  10. #50
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
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    I wish I had the confidence that I could take something like that apart and put it back together correctly

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