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Thread: Quickie Shadow handcycle

  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by djrolling View Post
    I wish I had the confidence that I could take something like that apart and put it back together correctly
    We can talk about that after it is back together and working as it was previously DJ

    I see that Jim has changed the thread title.
    Thanks Jim
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-19-2019 at 07:50 AM.

  2. #52
    Just waiting on some Lithium NLGI 00 grease for the hub.
    While that arrives I began on tidying the frame paint when my angle grinder died on me - stuffed commutator segment. Its like the old stuffed starter solenoid, now you have to push it before it will start.
    A tad dangerous so it will be relegated to one side and used for heavy work until it stuffs up completely. I reckon that 30 years service from the Hitachi is quite good, and a few more with the previous owner.
    A set of Spinergy 12 spokes are in the offing but will they handle the camber angle and my weight?
    18 spoke Spox would be my option but ...
    Any opinions, suggestions?
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-22-2019 at 05:06 PM.

  3. #53
    I put the Sachs hub together on Monday(?) and it went a treat except....
    Later I realised that I had not determined the orientation of a
    component part that is acted upon by the selector rod. I had a recollection that the part has a blind hole for the pin to locate in. Well I figured that there is a 50/50 chance that I got it correct BUT an equal chance that I did not :-)
    So you know what I had to do, dont you ?
    I pulled the hub down today to discover that my concern was ill founded; the hole was an open one- Better safe than sorry, right? Or pay more attention.
    On the bright side, this Sachs hub is looking quite familiar now.

    Previously I mentioned that here is evidence that the Schlumpf drive has not been cared for as well as it should have been.
    Its action feels OK, bearings etc but as a precaution I decided that I will pull it down and inspect the guts of it.
    Yesterday morning I got as far as removing one button on the off side, the obstinate opposite drive side button wouldn't budge. I needed lock nuts for the actuator pin before I could proceed further.
    We met up with some dear friends at the local Cosmopolitan Club for lunch. The after meal snooker games always give opportunity for amusement; lots of good
    humour and conversation. We left about 2 Afterwhich I found a local source for a couple of 3 x 0.5 nuts. There is only one small engineering supply outlet in town now, all the rest have shut up shop... That was the day done.
    Today I removed the drive side button and pulled the off side crank.
    The drive side was another story; it would not move with reasonable force. And even resisted more drastic measures. Heating the arm did no good. I used a 12" shifter 'extension' without success; BIG BIG load, no movement. Put heat into the arm once again while it was fully loaded and walked away for lunch- maybe when I come back it will have budged?
    No such luck. So tried the pressure again; I am getting concerned at this point that something is going to give (crank thread) before this crank arm comes off the taper- and I was correct, the puller gave up. Sheared off at the handle. You can see a reason why in the image.
    Nothing to lose now so out with the Stihlsons and give that bloody puller grief... once, then again and it began to move! HAPPY.
    Whoever put this arm on was a Gorrilla in strength and just plain brutal.
    Tomorrow I will pull the drive apart, clean and inspect. The images look ugly but the movement feels well enough to be reassured that it may be OK internally (fingers crossed).

    I straightened the torque arm and found a suitable clamp among my bits to secure it to the crank tube (correct term?).
    The steel crank cover is slightly out of round and the powdercoat is naff. It will be beaten true and given a paint-can refresh; black for now.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-29-2019 at 07:59 AM.

  4. #54
    Thanks for the update. Keep up the good work.

  5. #55
    No worries Smity.
    The Schlumph is stripped down, all parts have been wiped, demaged and washed in kero. For the most part it is looking OK.
    The inner bearing is still notchy after a wash out and the clutch ramp bearing race has some small pitting.
    Given a decent lube and an annual(?) strip I am hopeful it will serve me well.
    Haberstock Mobility have informed me that they no longer support this model and they do not have any manuals or spares available.

    This drive requires 83 balls. I ordered in new 4mm balls and a one new bearing # 61903 RS to replace the inner. The outer sealed bearing is running perfect.
    At this point I cannot see why an unsealed bearing is used at the most 'dirty' end. Thinking....
    Tomorrow I will visit a mate who has the 3mm die nuts to chase up the selector shaft thread. It is a bit damaged and will be hard on the alloy button.

    If anyone knows where some new old stock might be or a disused damaged unit for spares, could you please contact me by PM.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-30-2019 at 03:06 AM.

  6. #56
    Yesterday I sent a request with an attached image to Sunrise Medical requesting a paint code number for the cycle paint colour.
    A simple enough request I thought.

    I received a reply this morning
    unfortunately we are unable to provide any paint codes as there are proprietary to Sunrise Medical and we no longer offer touch up paint. So sorry for any inconvenience. Best regards,
    WTH? I don't want bloody touch-up paint sent, I live on the other side of the globe.
    I sent this reply to them.

    Hello ....
    Every paint manufacturer that I am aware of, offers the paint code specifications as a service to their customer base.
    Spectrum analysers can replicate any paint and a keen paint technician can do the same.

    All I wish to do is tidy up a perfectly well designed Sunrise Medical product .
    Is it good press for Sunshine to have their product represented well? Yes?

    So, some questions come to mind:
    If Sunrise no longer offer touch-up paint of this colour; for this product. Why would they not allow a person to have access to the code?
    It would seem to me that there is more to be gained for Sunshine by allowing such a courtesy/service than denying it.

    That Sunshines' policy is such is an inconvenience? absolutely.
    More so, it is a great disappointment that Sunshine has such a mean spirited policy.

    I am not commercially interested, nor would any competition be interested in a perfect match to your proprietary paint code. Why would they?

    Regards,
    A paint code would have made things that much easier but it is not insurmountable; just a more expensive exercise.

    Then I find this reference to touch up paint on the forum
    http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...aint-SERIOUSLY
    It is no damn wonder that they no longer supply touch up paint if that's what the profiteers charge, near NZ$150/ounce.
    They have a policy of diminishing demand for service by extortion?

    Mean spirited? Bastards.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-31-2019 at 10:22 AM.

  7. #57
    Welcome to Sunrise Medical. Their Customer service is a main reason I will never buy or use their products. Was completely different when Marilyn started it so many years ago. Tilite, Invacare, Top End have all turned the same way. No customer service; must go thru the dealer you bought it from. Not any dealer, but the one you bought it from.

    The rebuild is looking really good SR. Will be better than new when you're done.

  8. #58
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
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    Don't you just love it Companies that serve this community seem to be the worst. I sit here in a quickie but only because when something works for me I do not tend to change and using the chairs with an attachment and putting thousands of miles on them they have held up well, great in fact. I have only busted axel plates and those I had a local company make me some steal ones instead of the cast aluminum and problem solved.

    SR the fact that they would not give you the code speaks volume about them. It only serves to reinforce what we think of them

  9. #59
    Oh God, the busted axle plates on a Quickie 2. Seemed to always happen in the middle of a far away basketball game. You couldn't beat the old original frames from Quickie. It was either a Quickie or Quadra for a ridgid frame back in those days. Anything else was a folding E&J lightweight(52 lbs.) or Stainless weighing about the same.

  10. #60
    Hi Patrick,DJ & Smity; We do it as we can.

    And anyone else reading this thread, you are welcome to join in if you wish- it is not exclusive Your experience and examples of your work would be most welcome - or a link to your handcycle.


    I received a response to my email. A polite, only longer version of the previous No sleep lost on my part - or theirs?
    I wont dwell on it anymore except to say that the company policy likely is no reflection of the majority of staff that has to implement such directions.
    Yesterday was our first official day of Winter and it didn't disappoint. Wind, rain, hail and a decent drop in temperature was all my body needed to let me know in a real sense.
    Aching, chilled legs. Interesting that there is no 'feeling' and I could pinch/cut my legs and not feel a thing, yet when the extremes of temperature are about, that is a whole different thing..... just as well too.
    Yesterday was about the Grandchildren & keeping warm; today I will assemble the drive. Fast aye

    Interruption. I'm off to the NZ Warbirds at Ardmore .
    An open day to commemorate D Day landings 6 June 1944.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 06-01-2019 at 08:03 PM.

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