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Thread: Quickie Shadow handcycle

  1. #11
    Hi Patrick. I have found the Schlumpf site with the PDFs that cover makes , models, maintenance etc.
    Also, that Schlumph drives have been in production since the mid 90s (?)

    "Geneva 1991: schlumpf shows a prototype of a gearing system at the bottom bracket."

    They show a Mountain-drive with Brompton torque lever. I am thinking that the 'grip" that can be seen at the chainwheel in the image I posted is securing that torsion arm.
    The hose clip on the steerer stem is an interesting item; I am curious as to its function.

    This morning I spoke with the shipping company and the cycle has arrived here in Auckland. It is due for delivery this Monday/Tuesday. So the anticipation continues

    The Schlumpf family history is certainly an interesting read

    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-10-2019 at 06:44 PM.

  2. #12
    Re post #10
    Your involvement with sport at that level and the association with Jim, and others, must have made for interesting, exciting times Patrick.
    30 degrees F is a bit on the chilly side of warm; we get a few but for the most part it might be in the 40s+, above 0c
    We are still enjoying the last of the Autumn weather with an expectation that the rains and cold will come upon us before much longer. While you are looking toward warmer times and the promise of more outdoor pleasure. The seasons are great, aren't they.
    One of the images that the previous owner sent me shows a glimpse of the RHS of the drive. A torsion arm can be seen that appears to have been given a twist to facilitate attachment to the steer stem.
    So, that 'grip" that can be seen at the chainwheel does not secure the torsion arm. It fulfills another purpose.
    I haven't been able to find a bike store that sells the
    Schlumpf. There is a specialty business down Levin way and it could be possible that they fitted this machine AND may have more knowledge of it - I will call them next week.
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    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-11-2019 at 12:32 PM.

  3. #13
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Salisbury NC
    Well you guys have and have dug up a wealth of information. These are just guesses but I am thinking the one you are getting is what they considered the Mach 1 I am thinking there was never one that said Mach 1 on it. I have only ever seen Mach 2 and Mach 3. Anyway the mountain drive will come in handy. And starting out on this bike will build you up more than one of the newer lower bikes. I had a Mach 2, 7 speed that I put a lot of miles on and until recently kept as a back up. I did not have the mountain drive and it had an internal geared hub. Definitely lean into the turns. I only flipped it over two times. You will enjoy ridding and the transfers are so much more easy on and off this bike.

    I have a Freedom Ryder lean steer that I use on long organized rides but I use a Stricker Sport attachment on a daily basis as a mode of transportation everytime I can and also for fitness and fun.

    I cut the chain guard off of the attachment that I had from Quickie and put a bigger chaining on it you could do the same to the bike you are getting once you build yourself up some(I had to edit the preceding as I was thinking I did that to the Mach 2 but I did not and I had posted that I did it to the Mach 2). I also made a basket underneath it to carry things in I also rigged up some lights on the back that I plugged into a jump box for power. I also had a peice of PVC pipe with a hole cut in it that would allow me to take a wheel off and fix a flat while still on my cycle. The hole allowed me to slip it onto the axel and the pipe was big enough around that it would act as a jack stand and would keep the cycle level while I put a new tube in the tire. I had to be somewhere that I could grab something to pull myself up on two wheels, the front one and the non flat back one, pull the wheel off and put the pipe on the axel and gently lower my cycle back down and carefully fix the flat and inflate it with a Co2 pump pull myself back up on two wheels pull the pipe off and put the wheel back on. I was much younger then not sure if I tould try it now. But then again I do not have to now I can take off the attachment wheel over to a seat somewhere and transfer out of my chair and fix the flat which I have not had for a long time as I have found these tires to be very good and last about 8000 miles

    I found riding very therapeutic and I still do. I was injured in 1991 and started cycling in 1993 with an attachment from Quickie, Shadow Cyclone made by magic in motion the image below is just one I pulled up off the net but I rode mine for 23 years before I wore it out and had other bikes during that time and now I have the Stricker sport which is by far a better attachment in every way and I suspect it is the best attachment out there.

    Once you get this cycle in service and I suspect find out you love handcycling ride it as long as you can save up some money and decide what you want your next one to be. I suggest one if the Stricker attachments but different strokes for different folks. Or you may find that the bike you just purchased is sufficient for you purposes. Whatever the case just get out there and enjoy.
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    Last edited by djrolling; 05-12-2019 at 07:29 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Salisbury NC
    Looking at the pictures I am going to guess that a new bottom gear cassette, chain, and top chainring will be in order.

  5. #15
    Thanks DJ.
    You will be right on the chain and rings.
    There is a bit to do before I give it a semi serious outing. Clean, lube, adjust and on.
    Spox or Spinergy are in the offering if I'm lucky. I have yet to decide which way to go.

    The Quickie arrived this morning before lunch. I gave it a quick look over then dragged out the compressor and inflated the tyres; at last look they were still holding. After wiping it down I had a closer look - not too bad
    I recognised that the seat back does tilt forward AND that the previous owner had located the back further forward on the base rails. Then measured up the seat at 17" x 17' so just may do the job or I will stretch the frames.
    The wheels are Sun C20 and at 9 degrees camber; is that standard?
    The mountain drive actions OK. The front hub is a Sachs Super7 with the plastic box - with a metal guard fitted.
    There is some play in the head bearings also the wheel bearings too. If I use these wheels the will need re-tensioning and a couple of spokes straightened in situ.
    Tyres are OK - Kendas on the rear with maybe 1/4 tread. The front is much better, a Serfas Drifter.
    Frame colour is a blue/purple(?)
    I will post some images shortly.
    Does Quickie have a comprehensive database of serial numbers??
    At this point, I am as happy as a pig in muck .
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    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-13-2019 at 04:13 AM.

  6. #16
    Good to hear it's not too bad. The rear wheels are push button and not bolt on if I remember right. If so, they need just a little play so the axle can seat properly. Yep 9o is right. It's really important the toe-in/out is aligned right. Shouldn't be more than 1/4" difference in width between the front and back of the rear wheels. If there are flat edges on the end of the axle, they should be 90o to the ground. I used a square for that. If it doesn't, you'll have to measure the width distance at half way up the wheels. it'd be nice having some one sitting in it or weight on the seat as that'll give a better measurement if there need to be play in the wheel. Just a few minor adjustments will make a big dufference.

    When you go to change tires, try to get a higher pressure tire than the Kendra. A higher pressure tire on hard surface is much more efficient. If mainly riding hard surfaces a thinner tire would be more efficient. Great the mountain drive is working okay. You're going to find you won't be using it that much. Like DJ said, he put a larger chainring on his to compensate for his added strength. He's the man for uprights with thousands of miles in the saddle.

    For fit, if possible adjust the cranks so there is a slight bend in the elbows and not leaning forward when cranks are at 9 O'clock and at 3 O'clock try for a 90o bend or less with the back straight and feeling a squeeze between the Rhomboids. At your level, the lower you can get the cranks, the more you'll work your lower core. With that type of handcycle adjustments are not like they are now but you should get pretty close. If you have to rock back and forth when riding, you're too far back. If your shoulders are raising up and down to a large degree, you're sitting too low.

    Here's a photo of my handbuilt bike we built '77. Used rain gutter pvc for leg troughs and a plastic kitchen seat for the seat. It was a 27 speed at first with cable brakes. I kept breaking the cables so went to a 5 speed Strumey with drum brake. The frame was all hand brazed. I still have it. Couldn't figure out how to make the photo smaller.

    I'm excited for you. I'm getting to other end of the spectrum for my handcycling. With the power assist drives and newer designs, I'd like to make it to 50 years.
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    Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 05-13-2019 at 02:48 AM.

  7. #17
    Technology has come a long way since the 80s Patrick. That looks to be innovative application and thought in that early machine of yours. That you still have it speaks volumes; good onya, I like that !
    I will be paying close attention and taking heed of the advice that has been forthcoming, thanks. We are never too old not to digest good advice from the experienced and knowledgeable; right?

    More images. Poor light but you get the gist.
    I moved the seat back support to the rear of the base then climbed aboard. The seat does need widening and will be sorted in the near futureAn ungainly exercise but successful. All over the backyard on dusk under fading light- big smiles. Man, what a buzz this lark is going to be.
    Our dog thought that it was time to play also; he was almost as excited as I was.
    .pigs in muck indeed!
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    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-13-2019 at 03:08 AM.

  8. #18
    It looks really good SR. We just used a wider piece of plywood on the seat. Also a better base with no sagging. You may want the foot rests at a bit of an angle and put some straps on to hold the feet on. There should be some holes in the rear of the footrest. They had a bolt on each side with a strap to hold the heel from sliding off. You'll figure it out.

    It's in much better shape than I anticipated. Yep, you're going to have a lot of fun on it. Brought back memories of my dogs running with me before the back roads got developed. Enjoy

  9. #19
    We just used a wider piece of plywood on the seat
    On your Quickie handcycle ?
    Memory foam is the other affordable butt material to use?

    I can lay my hands on some posts and straps Patrick. Yes, there are a few adjustments to be made to make it my own.
    Although it is an oldie it doesn't appear that this design changed much in its forms, mach 2 and 3. Maybe just small refinements and improved components??
    Does anyone know when this form of handcycle end for Quickie, in the early 2000's or so??

    P.S If it can be done, I am hoping that the moderator/s can change the thread title to reflect what has become the discussion subject
    Last edited by slow_runner; 05-13-2019 at 05:14 AM.

  10. #20
    Senior Member djrolling's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Salisbury NC
    Actually with the close up pics the condition of the gears and chainring look good as far as wear I would check the chain and see what wear it had with a tool you have some miles left in the gears and chainring though.
    Last edited by djrolling; 05-13-2019 at 09:15 AM.

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