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Thread: NEW Chair NEW Vehicle Not compatible need ideas solutions?

  1. #21
    paul, i had no idea that qstraint had a drivers dock compatible with both tr and zr chairs.

    for those driving from manual chairs, what do you do for stability??
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  2. #22
    Just a heads up probably the most affordable rigid frame is the old classic quickie gpv. The first chair I had right out of rehab 25 years. Nothing fancy decent old school chair might be the most cost effective option. I am a co owner of a dme store in Scottsdale az. So i know a lot about chairs and other medical equipment. If you ever want to ask some questions. Good luck with your predicament. Nick in Phx.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by pete4sake View Post
    Hadn't thought of either idea or even knew they existed on electric or air transfer case would the idea be that they would take up less room ? i would have to talk to a mechanic to see if practical or possible on the hump would give the head room but vision challenges of driving so high would remain. thanks to all this is kind of brain storming that may solve my issue some how.
    All it would take is a servo to shift it, like guys use on motorcycles or steel something off a new car with paddle shifters from the junk yard. Old Jeep Wagoneers use to use a vacuum operated shifter. The parts are probably available from an aftermarket jeep outfit. If you can't raise the roof could you lower tthe floor a little?
    A

  4. #24
    Any room to move your chair forward and recline a bit so that you're still able to drive comfortably and safely? I've had the same situation in my SVM conversion. I couldn't use large power chairs...just didn't have enough head room. So I had to buy a cheap scooter type chair...mine's a pride jet 2. Then I gained another inch or two by shortening the shaft that attaches the wheelchair seat to the base. And then I made sure that in the vehicle, the wheelchair sat as far forward as it could with me being comfortable. So then I could recline quite a bit while still being able to reach the steering wheel comfortably and drive safely. I still sit far higher than I would like, but I'm almost 6'3", so it is what it is. Another thing I considered was using a rear wheel drive wheelchair...where the rear drive wheels were behind the transfer case cutout and the front wheels were in front of it. I really think ATC should make a detailed list of which wheelchairs fit well in their 4WD models (as well as their 2WD models). That would be extremely helpful. Good luck

  5. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Panama City, FL
    Posts
    647
    The Smart Drive stays attached to the chair. It is behind the chair and doesn't have to roll over the EZ Lock.
    "Never argue with an idiot; they'll drag you down to their level and other people may not be able to tell the difference."

  6. #26
    I have to back in with the ATC conversion. I guess its a big deal to take SD on and off if switch to a rigid chair. my main concern is driving comfortable and safely from the manual.

    Quote Originally Posted by 24/7 Quad View Post
    The Smart Drive stays attached to the chair. It is behind the chair and doesn't have to roll over the EZ Lock.

  7. #27
    Well there is just not a lot of wiggle room in there period, with the perm m-3. as far as rear wheel drive power chair i could maybe see that helping . I went in with my manual today just to see again how it felt I am actually a little to reclined in my manual. it felt pretty un steady even only driving a car length (granted wasn't tied down) but it made me wonder how driving from a manual will be as with power and recline you can tip back and forth to find a sweet spot in manual chair it is what it is when you lock in I had the feeling that in a manual the comfortable driving position may be angled slightly forward than what is comfortable just wheeling around. I agree this chair is simply not compatible with the ATC conversion. I was told it would be but it is not. Now the dilemma is to make sure the chair i buy to drive in will work out


    Quote Originally Posted by tarantella View Post
    Any room to move your chair forward and recline a bit so that you're still able to drive comfortably and safely? I've had the same situation in my SVM conversion. I couldn't use large power chairs...just didn't have enough head room. So I had to buy a cheap scooter type chair...mine's a pride jet 2. Then I gained another inch or two by shortening the shaft that attaches the wheelchair seat to the base. And then I made sure that in the vehicle, the wheelchair sat as far forward as it could with me being comfortable. So then I could recline quite a bit while still being able to reach the steering wheel comfortably and drive safely. I still sit far higher than I would like, but I'm almost 6'3", so it is what it is. Another thing I considered was using a rear wheel drive wheelchair...where the rear drive wheels were behind the transfer case cutout and the front wheels were in front of it. I really think ATC should make a detailed list of which wheelchairs fit well in their 4WD models (as well as their 2WD models). That would be extremely helpful. Good luck

  8. #28
    That's a real bummer. Anyway to drop the floor more for room and seeing outa the windshield?
    Art

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Lancaster, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    89

    Rigid Manual Driver

    Quote Originally Posted by pete4sake View Post
    I have to back in with the ATC conversion. I guess its a big deal to take SD on and off if switch to a rigid chair. my main concern is driving comfortable and safely from the manual.
    hey Paul! I'm the guy John was referring to. I've been a driver for 10+ years from a manual rigid chair. my current ride is a TiLite TR3. I am actually quite comfortable driving from my manual chair! I can drive for about two hours before I feel the need to pull over to do a 5min weight shift. The one suggestion I have is get yourself a solid back that is higher than what you would normally choose on a chair so that you have support behind you that isn't upholstery. I use a ADI carbon fiber high-back that is deep contoured. The contour helps me stay stable from left to right as well.

    As I told John, somehow I lost the pictures that I had shown him of my custom bracket for the EZlock but the bracket is fairly straightforward. I work with a bunch of engineers, one being a car builder with his own shop. We used chrome Molly for the pipe material. if you are familiar with the TR3 frame there are rails ( one on each side) under the mainframe that you would attach your seat upholstery to. He basically made a clamshell clamp to go around each rail. Then he used some one-inch diameter tubing to create a welded T. the cross member of the T was welded to each clamshell clamp and then the central down tube of the T was affixed with a welded C clamp that was used to clamp onto a bolt that he made from lighter material but almost exactly like the bolt used on those heavy ass EZlock brackets. The last part of the design was to create a diagonal tube connected from the downpipe of the T across to the rigidizer bar that sits towards the front portion of your seat underneath the upholstery. He clamped onto that rigidizer bar with another welded C clamp. like I said, it is a fairly simple design that is light and can be removed from the chair if need be. The only additional piece needed is and even more simple T bracket made from flat 3/8" (not 100% on that dimension) steel that is bolted through the floor of my Van. Attached to that is another flat steel piece bent to an L-shape that sits over the top of my footplate. this prevents my chair from tipping backwards when I accelerate. The piece that hooks over the footplate is flat enough that when I go to push myself into the lock my feet can be positioned on top of it after I'm in place. not sure when I will be able to get some pictures but hopefully this helps!

  10. #30
    We have a used Permobil called a low rider w elevating seat that goes down to 16". We are not letting go of ours but there must be others out there. Like all other good ideas this model is discontinued.

    The mobility dealer should never have built this truck if you did not have the chair you were going to use in it. Any chance they will give you a trade in value for the truck and build you a van that will fit your needs. My wife and I are manual chair users who use full sized vans. We once bought a VW Eurovan to downsize and installed 2 pwr seats up front. There was so little space between seats that we kept ripping out wires transferring. After about a year of frustration our VW dealer who kept repairing the seats bought the van, lift,seats and all. We took a loss but it was a relief to get back to a convenient vehicle. You are considering a compromise of using a chair otherwise not suitable for you so you can fit in your truck. This sci life is frustrating enough without being subjected to a chair that does not really work for you.

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