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Thread: New Ki Mobility Rogue worries

  1. #31
    So they brought it out, and I sat in it. The knobbies are WAY too much. It rubs on my arms and my clothes, and is very very hard to push. Too far back, too, couldn't even pop a wheelie. The back felt like it's pushing me forward too much, the hump shape I hate (I wanted the carbon one that's less of a profile). I do feel I should be back further in the chair, but she assured me I should have 2 inches of gap behind my knees. The footrest was too high, which is good, so it can go down some, and even be perfect if Ki had the same type of angle adjustable ones as Ti. That goes in and straight across. Theirs has poles on the outside, and mounts to the frame. Weird. I couldn't even come close to reaching the ground in this. Especially forward, like almost a foot from being able to! So she made a ton of notes, and is going back to them with the changes to see what they can do. Will have to go back to Schwalbe tires, which will lower it significantly. Ki claims that if they cut the frame below the caster arms, then it compromises the weld. But again, on my TiLite it is, and has been fine. So, fingers crossed they can rectify all this!

  2. #32
    Senior Member Oddity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heartdog View Post
    So they brought it out, and I sat in it. The knobbies are WAY too much. It rubs on my arms and my clothes, and is very very hard to push. Too far back, too, couldn't even pop a wheelie. The back felt like it's pushing me forward too much, the hump shape I hate (I wanted the carbon one that's less of a profile). I do feel I should be back further in the chair, but she assured me I should have 2 inches of gap behind my knees. The footrest was too high, which is good, so it can go down some, and even be perfect if Ki had the same type of angle adjustable ones as Ti. That goes in and straight across. Theirs has poles on the outside, and mounts to the frame. Weird. I couldn't even come close to reaching the ground in this. Especially forward, like almost a foot from being able to! So she made a ton of notes, and is going back to them with the changes to see what they can do. Will have to go back to Schwalbe tires, which will lower it significantly. Ki claims that if they cut the frame below the caster arms, then it compromises the weld. But again, on my TiLite it is, and has been fine. So, fingers crossed they can rectify all this!

    I really think if they mounted the riser footrest on a regular D-loop footrest you'd be able to use the Freewheel normally.
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  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by heartdog View Post
    Ki claims that if they cut the frame below the caster arms, then it compromises the weld. But again, on my TiLite it is, and has been fine. So, fingers crossed they can rectify all this!
    Quote Originally Posted by Oddity View Post
    I really think if they mounted the riser footrest on a regular D-loop footrest you'd be able to use the Freewheel normally.
    I don't see any reason why an inch or slightly more cant be removed from the frame tubes ( you are limited by the where the tubes angle out, also they may need to ream the tubes as the inserts might be obstructed in the weld region- The need for reaming is what I encountered when stretching and widening my TiLite) . Another inch could be easily removed from the footplate support. That would effectively lower your footplate by 2 inches.
    I agree with Oddity about the D loop footrest.
    As for the rest of the wheelchair design and assembly, that requires changes that agree with you and your specific needs.
    Put everything down in writing and have it signed. Make sure that they listen and implement what you require.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 07-31-2018 at 03:28 PM.

  4. #34
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    That's a fully adjustable chair, no? I'd move the wheels forward a good two inches. Your current Center of Gravity looks almost at 0.
    Rollin' since '89. Complete C8

  5. #35
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    If you don't have enough adjustment to get your rear seat to floor height back up when the knobbies come off, you can go with larger wheels to make up the difference if its not too late to swap them out.

  6. #36
    So, they're redoing a whole new chair. Wow. Some significant changes. Thought I'd post and ask you all what you thought. The floor to seat height was so much, that I couldn't reach the ground, so it's going from 18 to 15.5, rear seat ht from 16 to 15, 1 inch depth adjustment to the back, NO taper available with the lower seat to floor height....which SUCKS, change from mountain tires to the Euro trek knobby tires, and moved COG from 1.5 to 2.5. as for the footrest we can go with either the tubular with/ abs cover or the angle adjustable footplate. I do like the taper, but isn't it best that the front of the chair allows you to reach the ground in front of you? Or just the sides? I'm not used to any dump at all, but I feel like I'm falling out of the chair some...but the 2 inch feels like a lot. But maybe cuz I'm just not used to it. I am short AF, so it makes me feel wedged in too much. Same with the allowing 2 inches of gap between knees and the seat, I prefer it to be almost up to them, and like I'm sitting way back in the chair. Though the Roho back was the culprit of making me feel too far forward. I wonder how much it would help to get 5" casters instead of 4". Particularly since I'm in crooked ground environments. I am used to 5". That might help bring the caster arms up some.
    Thoughts? Thank you all so much, this is helping me a lot! I just want my dream chair finally at this stage of life LOL.

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  7. #37
    Senior Member lynnifer's Avatar
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    That's awesome! The first chair might be good for a child or something.
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  8. #38
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    Glad you're get a new one. A few comments:

    1. Is there any particular reason you're going with knobby tires? I know they are thinner than the original ones, but it will still make pushing harder and take more effort than standard high pressure tires. I have knobbies on an extra set of wheels for when I need them, and there is no way I would push them around as an everyday tire. But I see lots of people doing it, it's just not for me.

    2. If you go to 5" casters make sure you have clearance at your footplate.

    3. I would recommend 2 degrees of camber over 0. It doesn't add much width to your chair but the extra stability is worth it to me.

  9. #39
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    I agree with Brad and was thinking the same thing. Why knobby's? They'll suck for daily use, but would be great for a second set.
    Rollin' since '89. Complete C8

  10. #40
    Granted I know nothing about manual chairs. Maybe your hands are in better shape than mine, But, I been wearing full finger gloves for over 5 years solid now due to callouses on palms and fingers from pulling doors, joystick and everyday usage plus skin getting thin and fragile on other areas. Even now I'm sporting a bandage on forehead from fight with freezer door. BTW: It won, not a mark on it. Me a good size bruise, skin peeled back and bleed like a struck hog!
    Those knobbies would eat my hands alive.
    What seen of manuals I'd think about that camber, ain't that the push wheels at angle? Especially if won't affect doorway clearance in your normal daily use.

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