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Thread: Bad experience with Max Mobility Smart Drive

  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    It's just e-bike stuff. After paying someone to connect the pieces together for my recumbent I decided anyone can do it. The main part is the controller with bunches of premarked wires coming out the end. They are marked for battery, motor, brake, (regen, not geared motors) throttle, and ignition, usb, I think that is all.
    Well, isn't that convenient? They took all the guess work out by labeling the circuits. What a luxury. No reverse engineering needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    So what I am getting now is that of the three wires for the throttle I would use the negative and the signal wire breaking the signal between the throttle and the controller with the resistor closest in line to the throttle?
    Yes. That's pretty much it.


    1. Cut the signal wire. Now you will have two ends of the signal wire: 1) signal wire 1 (going to the wireless throttle) and 2) signal wire 2 (going to the motor drive).
    2. Signal wire 1 remains unconnected in order to eliminate the wireless throttle.
    3. Connect the resistor between your hardwired throttle power line (adjustable 0-5V) and signal wire 2.
    4. Connect the capacitor between the signal wire 2 and ground.


    The capacitor in parallel with the motor drive input sets voltage ramp time to 5RC. For 47K and 10 uF, t = 0.5 sec.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    1K would give 1 sec. I would reduce the capacitor value. 1000uF is very large physically. How about 47K and 10uF for about a half second delay to start. Then increase/decrease R value to increase/decrease the delay. The resistor power rating can be very small. Full power = V^2/R = 25V/47K = half a milliwatt.
    Of course, I meant to write 4.7k. I was wondering how big or small those caps are though and changing their size makes sense too. But most seem to be 6.3v. What I read, 6.3 won't matter, is that true in this case?
    A half second delay is too fast, maybe 20k and 10uF.
    What I am looking for is something to prevent or dampen not just delay the sudden wot, wide open throttle, way too quick acceleration that can happen with these less than a quarter turn twist throttles. The brushless motors respond even better than brushed motors. I hope we are talking the same thing.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    Of course, I meant to write 4.7k. I was wondering how big or small those caps are though and changing their size makes sense too. But most seem to be 6.3v. What I read, 6.3 won't matter, is that true in this case?
    A half second delay is too fast, maybe 20k and 10uF.
    What I am looking for is something to prevent or dampen not just delay the sudden wot, wide open throttle, way too quick acceleration that can happen with these less than a quarter turn twist throttles. The brushless motors respond even better than brushed motors. I hope we are talking the same thing.
    Yes, we are talking about the same thing. Maybe I shouldn't call it a delay. I should call it a ramp because it happens gradually. By adding the RC circuit, the voltage ramps up from 0 to 5V gradually. It reaches full value in about 5RC seconds.

    I edited my post that you referenced above. In my original post, I calculated the ramp time to be RC, which is incorrect. In my edited post, I calculated ramp time to be 5RC, which is correct.

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    Well, isn't that convenient? They took all the guess work out by labeling the circuits. What a luxury. No reverse engineering needed.
    Except the colors might not match up between components, so that needs to be decoded. Choosing a correctly matched controller to the motor might still be an issue too, high speed, wattage etc.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  5. #45
    I was with you all the way until this last comment about choosing a correctly matched controller to the motor (aka motor drive). My understanding is that you are leaving the motor and it's drive untouched and all you are changing is the throttle from wireless to hardwired.

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    I was with you all the way until this last comment about choosing a correctly matched controller to the motor (aka motor drive). My understanding is that you are leaving the motor and it's drive untouched and all you are changing is the throttle from wireless to hardwired.
    I was talking about building from scratch, not this revision.
    And this is not changing from wireless to hardwired. I have already gone hardwired with my Smartdrive, using e-bike components. But the e-bike throttles accelerate too fast for tippy wheelchairs. I may have mentioned wireless since there is no "wire" inside the throttle, like the old time pots that scratched over wire windings.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #47
    August wrote:

    1. Cut the signal wire. Now you will have two ends of the signal wire: 1) signal wire 1 (going to the wireless throttle) and 2) signal wire 2 (going to the motor drive).
    2. Signal wire 1 remains unconnected in order to eliminate the wireless throttle.
    3. Connect the resistor between your hardwired throttle power line (adjustable 0-5V) and signal wire 2.
    4. Connect the capacitor between the signal wire 2 and ground


    response
    1 signal wire 2 goes to the controller
    2 signal wire 1 remains unconnected? really? That is the one coming from the throttle dictating the chosen speed. The other two wires are plus and minus 5v
    3 this sounds like the resistor goes in the cut signal wire different that above, more like I thought.
    4 which side of the res?

    Looking through the different sites there are various schematic examples. Some have them wired in parallel, or series or both with two resistors. The site I referenced above, below whatever had them in series. Does it matter?
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  8. #48
    Schematic explains it best.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  9. #49
    wondering if any of the MX2 users have used the phone app? It doesn't have any good reviews that I can find, just wondering if they have fixed it.

  10. #50
    IF you have MX2, contact max mobility and upgrade to mx2+. It is much better!!

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