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Thread: What do BMW drivers and Prius drivers have in common?

  1. #41
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rustyjames View Post
    Andy, where did you buy your MPD's? Did you have to make a custom mount? Agreed on having others do the work, a lot of hacks out there. The one thing they seem to know how to do is charge, Bigly.
    The best is when they mimic the Jiffy Lube tech trying to play master mechanic. At that point you are like...WTF? Here's one...the 'professionals' were installing those new electronic controls and somehow zapped the sport mode functions for the tranny and etc in a Land Rover. Guess who they were blaming on that one...it wasn't them, lol. Weird how replacing a variable resister can do this...or was it something else? Nope, I'm not dealing with these types of 'professionals'. Or paying them what they think they are worth

    Anyway, I got one set from some now-defunct place in FL that shipped a new set to me. The other one is Ebay special. Just keep rotating them amongst cars. No custom mount, the Honda was done using the kit-supplied generic L brackets.

  2. #42
    Those kit supplied brackets never worked out for me. Had to make up some custom mounts for my VW Eurovan and my Ford E250.

  3. #43
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    I used like 4 of those L brackets to make a mounting bridge on a Ford column, anchored by the factory column mounting studs. Quite the Erector Set, lol. A lousy photo:
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  4. #44
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    My fabricated control, out of 1" seamless .090?wall DOM tubing, requires only a 1" hole in the under dash and a loooong bolt.

    Unfortunately, the GTI already had an opening for the control mounting post -so it doesn't look so cool as my wife's Volvo did where the post
    went through a one inch hole in the under-dash.
    In both cases, the steering column support was a rectangular aluminum casting with a M8 cap screw at each corner.
    I was surprised at how secure the controls are/were with only a M8/1.25 threaded rod through the tubing.
    If it weren't stout enough, I was prepared to put a companion tube in the left/forward location and weld in
    a lateral to really make it rugged, but I've beat on this setup since 2006 without any problems; haven't even had to retighten the single mounting.

    I can remove everything except the brake pushrod in about a minute (remove 3/8 cap screw from upper brake rod spherical bearing; remove nut retaining the mounting post, and unplug the electrical connector to the electronic throttle sensor, and out it comes.
    Brake pushrod? Without it on a lift (retired, sold my shop) I'd have to get down to reach the mounting at the brake pedal.
    I see you (Andy) cross-drilled the brake pedal arm to mount your rod end. I would too if I did it again, and I'd nut the cross-mounting bolt so it would only require a wrench on the outer bolt retaining the rod-end to remove the damn thing. (I used the stupid two part clamp from a previous commercial hand control to connect to the rod-end)

    EDIT: looking at my photo, it seems the brake arm is pressed steel part. I still think that if there was plenty of material on either side of the holes, I'd put a bolt in with appropriate spacer to keep pedal arm from being bent together by the bolt.
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    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  5. #45
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    Ok, one scene for the "should have been left on the cutting room floor"...

    If you watch Fantomworks on TV, there was an episode where they installed some 'real' hand controls into some guy's car. MPD's if I am not mistaken. And what a dumpster fire that was. Seriously weird install. Here's a pic, more to be seen in the episode...

    https://www.fantomworks.com/project/1969-superbee/
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