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Thread: Anyone have a 75 degree front angle?

  1. #11
    I'm learning new stuff. I always thought the front downward bend started at the same place regardless of front approach angle, and that by choosing a 75 degree over a 90 degree simply made the chair longer. I stand corrected. I have a T4 SCI. My first chair was an old box style Quickie GPV with a 75 degree front angle and a very mild dump. I was quite stable in that chair but the chair was a bit too long in certain circumstances. For my next chair after that I chose a Kuschall Champion with 24" rear wheels and a 90 degree front angle hoping to reduce my footprint because I had been experiencing issues fitting into bathroom stalls and couldn't get close enough to the table in some restaurants. The Kuschall definitely had a smaller footprint but I kept falling out forward when my front casters would fetch up on a small pebble or I tried to pick something up in front of my chair. To solve that problem I dialed in a lot of dump. While that solved my stability issue, it made me so short that I couldn't reach much at the grocery stores. I also couldn't make my casters perpendicular to the ground (because back then the assemblies where welded in place like the Invacare Top Ends) so my front would dip and raise when going from forward to backward. Anyway, I really learned a lot from that Kuschall chair--mostly how not to order a chair. It was a really was a well made high quality chair. ...I just didn't know enough about ordering chairs at the time.
    Last edited by fasdude; 10-02-2017 at 12:44 PM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by rAdGie View Post
    looking at those cads id rather have the 90 degree version as knee protectors :P you could tell them your cushion is 1 - 2 inches shorter than it actually is? then when you put it on you will have the 90 degree frame and it will start as it leaves your cushion, does that make sense?
    Makes perfect sense. But there's a catch. Reducing the seat tube length 2" with a 90 degree angle places the front caster under the rear wheels, which presents stability issues. Hence the more you reduce the depth the more you have to reduce the front angle.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by fasdude View Post
    I'm learning new stuff. I always thought the front downward bend started at the same place regardless of front approach angle, and that by choosing a 75 degree over a 90 degree simply made the chair longer. I stand corrected. I have a T4 SCI. My first chair was an old box style Quickie GPV with a 75 degree front angle and a very mild dump. I was quite stable in that chair but the chair was a bit too long in certain circumstances. For my next chair after that I chose a Kuschall Champion with 24" rear wheels and a 90 degree front angle hoping to reduce my footprint because I had been experiencing issues fitting into bathroom stalls and couldn't get close enough to the table in some restaurants. The Kuschall definitely had a smaller footprint but I kept falling out forward when my front casters would fetch up on a small pebble or I tried to pick something up in front of my chair. To solve that problem I dialed in a lot of dump. While that solved my stability issue, it made me so short that I couldn't reach much at the grocery stores. I also couldn't make my casters perpendicular to the ground (because back then the assemblies where welded in place like the Invacare Top Ends) so my front would dip and raise when going from forward to backward. Anyway, I really learned a lot from that Kuschall chair--mostly how not to order a chair. It was a really was a well made high quality chair. ...I just didn't know enough about ordering chairs at the time.
    All good points. It's a trade-off. There's no perfect solution. Another problem with casters not normal (perpendicular to the ground) is that they resist turning side to side, which stresses your wrists.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by August West View Post
    Makes perfect sense. But there's a catch. Reducing the seat tube length 2" with a 90 degree angle places the front caster under the rear wheels, which presents stability issues. Hence the more you reduce the depth the more you have to reduce the front angle.
    you cant have both im afraid, i made my chair as small as possible width as well as length and im glad i did as if it wasnt for doing that theres places i would of struggled to get to, i got more dump in mine now so less likely to tip forward, i compromised plus never thought of what if i tip forward, the further out the castors the more stable you will be, also something that might not have been mentioned is the rear wheels, the more forward you can have them the shorter the chair, but then you will have a tippy chair and also the size of the rear wheels, every little helps :P

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by rAdGie View Post
    you cant have both im afraid, i made my chair as small as possible width as well as length and im glad i did as if it wasnt for doing that theres places i would of struggled to get to, i got more dump in mine now so less likely to tip forward, i compromised plus never thought of what if i tip forward, the further out the castors the more stable you will be, also something that might not have been mentioned is the rear wheels, the more forward you can have them the shorter the chair, but then you will have a tippy chair and also the size of the rear wheels, every little helps :P
    I have to reduce transfer distance because of my shoulder. Transfers never used to be a problem until recently (34 years post injury). I don't suppose it's going to get any easier over time. The critical dimension for me is the distance between the front of the cushion and the front of the wheelchair so that I can reduce transfer distance. For this I am willing to live with a wheelchair that is a little forward tippy. There will be a learning curve to adjust to the changes in balance. I have to be careful not to take a header. Otherwise, like all things over time I will get used to a wheelchair that is forward tippy.

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