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Thread: I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

  1. #41
    50 bucks huh?? lol!!!

    I'll just post it here because I'd like anyone else that's interested in the subject to see what their options are. Not sure what your using though would be a viable for her though, only because you said you don't go too far. She uses her chair all throughout the day, and school is coming up shortly..sooooo....that's a good 6 or 7 hour clip of her using it on and off all day being nowhere near a charger.

    As far as my location...we're in Suffolk County on Long Island, NY. Any help is sure appreciated!
    Last edited by Fast Joey; 08-07-2017 at 04:37 PM.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Joey View Post
    50 bucks huh?? lol!!!

    I'll just post it here because I'd like anyone else that's interested in the subject to see what their options are. Not sure what your using though would be a viable for her though, only because you said you don't go too far. She uses her chair all throughout the day, and school is coming up shortly..sooooo....that's a good 6 or 7 hour clip of her using it on and off all day being nowhere near a charger.

    As far as my location...we're in Suffolk County on Long Island, NY. Any help is sure appreciated!
    Wow, I didn't see any Craigslist opportunities on Long Island, so then I checked back to Seattle and it was next to nothing also. A few years ago there were lots, that's how I got the broken Bionix kit. I'm thinking the e-bike craze is waning.
    There is a brand new 48 volt in with charger in Canada, but how to get it shipped across the border is problematic. He needed 36 volts, but we can use a step down transformer so other than 24 volt batteries will work. I did pay about 60 for the transformer. This is the battery I am considering buying if I need to. Unless they have changed their catalog listing, I already have one on my SD clone and it has gone miles and miles at the beach in So Cal. The big one on the left: http://www.electric-bike-kit.com/lit...erymodule.aspx

    Another one which I know is a rock is the old SmartDrive battery. Those things are tankers. Obtaining one is the only issue. I have a second SD that I snagged cheap and modified. That battery now has a controller and extra wires on it, but I am debating abandoning that project and claiming the battery for the Iglide.

    Here is a pic of all that is needed of the original IGlide shell battery. Actually only the plug is needed: opps, I need to post another reply using "Go Advanced"
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    ...Here is a pic of all that is needed of the original IGlide shell battery. Actually only the plug is needed: opps, I need to post another reply using "Go Advanced"

    So what you do is simply bust open the case. I saw a corner and jam one or two big screwdrivers in and twist sideways. It squeaks and moans, but it does come apart. You do have to remove or cut the stickers first. Thinking I would mount a battery flat against the bottom you see, I countersunk those tiny bolts. It may or not be necessary depending on battery chosen.

    Speaking of which, rebuilding back to original would involve finding good battery cells and to tell you the truth the NiMH type they use self destruct if left unattended too long. Shocking NiMH back to life does not extend enough of their usefulness for the day. A factory new NiMH battery can be as good as dead in just a few months.

    So upgrading to Lithium is the way to go. And abandoning the circuit board and cutting out all those extra wires is a no brainer once we learned it could be done. All you have to do is connect the red wire from the battery to the *big* red wire on the plug, and black battery wire to the big black wire on the plug. The new battery *must* never be charged with the Iglide battery. The charging cycle is different and it charges too high.
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    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #44
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Joey, I have rebuilt several batteries and have since converted to lithium. If you aren't good at this or understand your best bet would be to stay with sub-c nimh. It is also the cleanest and may be better than a homemade lithium battery box hanging off the back of a chair of a girl that is going to school. I rebuilt two with high capacity cheap Chinese nimh and neither pack lasted very long before cells started to fail. The last pack I used Saft batteries made in France and they lasted much longer and I still use this pack from time to time, they are about five years old now.

    If I where you I would buy 40 of these https://www.batterystore.com/batteri...c-arts-energy/ not necessarily from that store and find a local shop to switch the cells out. I don't have a battery welder so I took mine to a local Batteries Plus shop and had them do the work. Any shop that rebuilds batteries should be able to get you fixed up. These shops can also get you the cells if you don't feel comfortable, just make sure they get quality brand cells, there is no way to tell what they put in there once the battery case is glued back together. There may also be less down time if you walk in with the batteries already in hand, it only took them about an hour to replace my batteries. I had already bought the cells and had the case cracked open, they only had to weld the batteries in place. If you go to open the case do what nonoise said but don't push a screwdriver in anywhere near where the battery level lights are. There is a circuit board there that can be damaged, anywhere else is ok. Search some of my old post explaining how to open and rebuild the battery, just don't go with high capacity cheap cells like I initially did.

    Call some local shops and tell them you have a 24v 5.6ah nimh battery pack that has 40 sub-c cells (two sets of 20 cells in series combined in parallel) and see what they recommend, stress reliability, they may recommend something better than Saft. The original cells were I think Panasonic but last I checked they quit making them. The individual cells need to be 2.8ah or above and it may help to order them with the tabs for easy welding. Ask the shop beforehand if they prefer the tabs or not.

  5. #45
    Researching away here. and all this info is awesome...but...actually doing it is something I don't think I'm going to be able to tackle. I got my insurance on the phone, and they DO cover the batteries...actually TWO when needed at an 80/20 ratio once I've met my deductible. The new ones are $950 (ouch!), but that boils down to $190 after insurance. Which...if I actually bought the 40 batteries myself would be real close to that....even more if they are 5 bucks a pop.

    I think once I have her new ones, if I can find those batteries cheaper, I'd feel much more confident in cracking her old case opening and having a go at this. At that point, if I screw it up...it won't matter, I can toss the whole project lol...

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Joey View Post
    Researching away here. and all this info is awesome...but...actually doing it is something I don't think I'm going to be able to tackle. I got my insurance on the phone, and they DO cover the batteries...actually TWO when needed at an 80/20 ratio once I've met my deductible. The new ones are $950 (ouch!), but that boils down to $190 after insurance. Which...if I actually bought the 40 batteries myself would be real close to that....even more if they are 5 bucks a pop.

    I think once I have her new ones, if I can find those batteries cheaper, I'd feel much more confident in cracking her old case opening and having a go at this. At that point, if I screw it up...it won't matter, I can toss the whole project lol...
    So if you are going to go ahead and get two brand new batteries, you won't need to update the old one, that is the good news. The warning here is that those two new ones must never be left idle, sidelined will self destruct. That is the way with NiMH chemistry. The good news is that by rotating batteries every other day she can get twice the life.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #47
    Believe me, her battery NEVER sits idle. She is in the chair all day long depending on it to keep her going. I just figured once I have the new ones, nothing can stop me from experimenting away with the "junk" one to see just how it goes and not have to worry about it if I screw it up.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Fast Joey View Post
    Believe me, her battery NEVER sits idle. She is in the chair all day long depending on it to keep her going. I just figured once I have the new ones, nothing can stop me from experimenting away with the "junk" one to see just how it goes and not have to worry about it if I screw it up.
    I thought you meant you planned to get two new insurance batteries. And if you did one might tend to get neglected, that's what I meant.

    There is nothing to screw up with the old battery. If you break something taking it apart, just continue on and do it my way which I think is the best anyway.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  9. #49
    Yup, that's exactly what I meant...those new ones will go into rotation so we'll get twice the life out of them.

  10. #50
    This is a question for maddog (or anyone else that has done this) based on his prior replacement of the original iGlide/Tailwind NiMH cells with higher rated cells. I am repairing a battery pack for a friend and he wants to keep the chair as original as possible so no battery chemistry swap. I have already opened the case and removed the original cells. I have found 6v 5000mah NiMH sub-c stick packs at Maxxpacks.com that look like they would be pretty simple to swap in but I want to make sure there won't be any problems with the original Panasonic charger or in-pack electronics. Will the original charger work well with the higher rated cells?
    The current cells have a flat ceramic component wired in series with the cell stick chain between the 2nd - 3rd and 6th-7th paired sticks. A continuity check seems to indicate these are diodes. I googled the numbers on the component but no hits. Do I need a higher rated component or will the originals work with the new higher rated cells?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Last edited by MarshSt; 09-13-2017 at 08:48 AM.

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