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Thread: I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

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  1. #1

    I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

    I am trying to determine what a full charge of a top quality I-Glide battery is. It is a 24 volt battery, but the charger output is marked 28.8 volts, and the Nimh cells full charge could add up to as high as 32 volts unless restricted.
    So has anyone checked the voltage of their battery on any of these chairs? I want to switch chemistries but am reluctant until I have more data. I won't use the Panasonic charger as it is set up for Nimh. Thanks for reading.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  2. #2
    See if you can get some advice on a robot fighting sight. Those guys hop that stuff up. Are they NiMH batteries?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by baldfatdad View Post
    See if you can get some advice on a robot fighting sight. Those guys hop that stuff up. Are they NiMH batteries?
    Yes they are NiMH cells. There are two parallel sets of 20. My question is more specific to the wheelchair than the actual battery pack capacity which I think would be about 32.0 volts. I've lucked out and rounded up several old, dead packs that I have shocked back into accepting a charge from the I-Glide charger. These old batteries get close to what the chargers rated output is at 28.8 volts. So what makes me wonder is if the I-Glide folks purposefully set a high voltage charge cutoff. Maybe more voltage would cause damage to the chairs controller, I don't know, and don't want to risk it. That's why I want to know what a fresher I-glide battery delivers.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #4
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    I run eight 3.2v Lifepo4 headway batteries in my iglide with no problems. 25.6v pack that charges at 29.2v while still connected to the chair.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    I run eight 3.2v Lifepo4 headway batteries in my iglide with no problems. 25.6v pack that charges at 29.2v while still connected to the chair.
    I thought you were the one who had successfully converted to lithium. I'm having a bit of an issue with the printed circuit board in the battery case since it wants to be part of the overall system. My question to you is are you running both batteries, yours and theirs in parallel? If not what did you do with the loose end of the thermister wire on the plug interface end of the battery box?
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  6. #6
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    I thought you were the one who had successfully converted to lithium. I'm having a bit of an issue with the printed circuit board in the battery case since it wants to be part of the overall system. My question to you is are you running both batteries, yours and theirs in parallel? If not what did you do with the loose end of the thermister wire on the plug interface end of the battery box?
    I don't run both batteries, only the lipo. You don't need the circuit board or the thermistor, the only thing you need from the battery box is the red and black wires. Connect those to your new battery and you are ready to go. If I remember correctly there are two red wires on the battery box just combine them and connect them to your positive on your new battery. I took a hacksaw and cut the connector out of the battery box so I could interface with the chair and hard mounted the new battery to my chair. The red and black wires are all you need, I think the thermistor is only used with the iglide charger not the chair.

  7. #7
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    OK I am confused (short trip) Quote; " I don't run both batteries, only the lipo.

    Which are we talking about? Lipo or LiFePO4 they are different chemistries entirely. Pictures help. All the reports about BMS I have read are pretty negative. What size or model chair do you use ? Also i you would the advertised speed and size of battery originally intended by the manufacturer.

    Lipo--- batteries are pretty hairy things, there have been some big disasters using them. But some folks have done some pretty amazing things with them. I am just hot too sure I want to want one under my seat while cruising along.

    LiFePO4 are a whole different issue. Just an opinion and asking questions not judging.

  8. #8
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Sullivan View Post
    OK I am confused (short trip) Quote; " I don't run both batteries, only the lipo.

    Which are we talking about? Lipo or LiFePO4 they are different chemistries entirely. Pictures help. All the reports about BMS I have read are pretty negative. What size or model chair do you use ? Also i you would the advertised speed and size of battery originally intended by the manufacturer.

    Lipo--- batteries are pretty hairy things, there have been some big disasters using them. But some folks have done some pretty amazing things with them. I am just hot too sure I want to want one under my seat while cruising along.

    LiFePO4 are a whole different issue. Just an opinion and asking questions not judging.
    I only run the lifepo4, not in parallel with the original nimh battery. I don't have a lipo just wrote that wrong.

    The original battery was a 24v 5.6ah nimh.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    I don't run both batteries, only the lipo. You don't need the circuit board or the thermistor, the only thing you need from the battery box is the red and black wires. Connect those to your new battery and you are ready to go. If I remember correctly there are two red wires on the battery box just combine them and connect them to your positive on your new battery. I took a hacksaw and cut the connector out of the battery box so I could interface with the chair and hard mounted the new battery to my chair. The red and black wires are all you need, I think the thermistor is only used with the iglide charger not the chair.
    Congratulations, you broke the code. There are I-Glides sitting all over the place that can't be used because Clinton stopped selling old style batteries and changed the plug interface so new ones can't be used either. I was too chicken to try what you did because of the "data, clock, and thermister" connections. If I had a backup controller, which I was looking for, I would have tried it. I thought the clock connection had to do with the push timeout, but I guess not, that is good. And I am surprised about the thermister too because whenever I disconnected the other thermister, the "gas gauge" went to one flashing red light and I'd have to start the recharge cycle over. But reconditioning old dead batteries was never my intent. I wanted to upgrade to new lithium. I happened to find at an e-bike manufacturer some they could not use, so on a whim and chance I bought the whole box cheap.

    In one of these battery boxes one red wire goes to the battery first and the other goes to the circuit board, so probably only one is needed, it's a matter of knowing which one.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  10. #10
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    Congratulations, you broke the code. There are I-Glides sitting all over the place that can't be used because Clinton stopped selling old style batteries and changed the plug interface so new ones can't be used either. I was too chicken to try what you did because of the "data, clock, and thermister" connections. If I had a backup controller, which I was looking for, I would have tried it. I thought the clock connection had to do with the push timeout, but I guess not, that is good. And I am surprised about the thermister too because whenever I disconnected the other thermister, the "gas gauge" went to one flashing red light and I'd have to start the recharge cycle over. But reconditioning old dead batteries was never my intent. I wanted to upgrade to new lithium. I happened to find at an e-bike manufacturer some they could not use, so on a whim and chance I bought the whole box cheap.

    In one of these battery boxes one red wire goes to the battery first and the other goes to the circuit board, so probably only one is needed, it's a matter of knowing which one.
    It has been a long time since I looked at this but I think most of the wire connectors on the chair are blank, the positive and negative and I think that is all. The charger connector uses most if not all. The plug pins are labeled on the battery so it is easy to see what the chair needs and what the charger needs.

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