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Thread: I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

  1. #161
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    TREA18 talked me out of my battery so I sold it to him shortly after I built it. I just built myself another one but decided the box I used before was a little small and made things difficult. I decided to design a new bigger bottom half of the battery in cad and 3d print it myself. It matches up with the top half of the battery box but gives me more depth. If anyone needs a custom bottom let me know and I can send you a STL file for you to have printed or I could print it for you. It makes adding a different battery much easier, everything from the top half of the battery stays like the fuse, etc. I can easily modify the file to any depth you would need, right now the bottom is 2.4" deep.
    Well I am impressed. Constructing a new bottom is an excellent idea and you apparently have the skills to do so. Unless I make another battery, which is likely, I am good for the time being. I'm only running a gap of an inch or less with the NCM batteries now. But I am considering running three in parallel which would require an improved box and is the reason I have not done it.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  2. #162
    For the sake of expediency, am I now doomed because I killed my last tailwind battery? I have one that is unreliable because it always cuts ofter I reach the top of inclines (it surges??) and the other went two months without charging (because I fractured my L2, SCI double injury now, C6/L2). Anyway, trying to charge it now = solid red on the converter box. Talk about kicking someone when they are down, this stinks, so bummed and uugh. Lots of mechanical engineers at UCONN, do you guys have the best specs that I could use and see if someone there could rebuild accordingly?

  3. #163
    Quote Originally Posted by cadamson View Post
    For the sake of expediency, am I now doomed because I killed my last tailwind battery?...
    You will be fine. The battery is definitely rebuildable. I have not done a tailwind yet, but several people here including myself have rebuilt the similar I-Glide battery. Maddog may have upgraded a tailwind to lithium, somebody did. What battery chemisty is yours? If your charger output is 28.8V it is a NIMH battery. If your charger output is 29.2V you have a lithium battery. Either way your battery pack can be rebuilt.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #164
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadamson View Post
    Anyway, trying to charge it now = solid red on the converter box.
    If this battery is still good you can revive it fairly easily. Take a 12v charger and put charge to pins 1 and 3 for about a minute. I used a car battery charger and but a nail in the clamps and inserted the negative in pin 1 and positive in pin 3. Don't use a high amp charger or jump box because it may blow the 20A fuse on the battery. You only need a small voltage in the battery for the tailwind charger to read the battery and start charging again.

  5. #165
    battery is 24V, the symbol on the battery indicate NiMH. I never got a charger when I bought the tailwind. I still have my two iGlide chargers and used them with my CR tailwind
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  6. #166
    Maddog, see my photos but I am still using an iglide charger, my husband tried one and three but he is wondering if it is instead of one and six? (1 and 3 did not work)
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  7. #167
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    1 and 3 is correct. 3 goes straight to the battery and bypasses the circuit board inside. There is no power in the battery to power the circuit board to tell the charger to start charging. By using 1 and 3 and a simple 12v or 24v charger you can get a small voltage into the battery to power the circuit board and allow the iglide charger to charge. The iglide and any other "smart" charger needs feedback from the battery to start charging like voltage, temp, etc. If the battery is totally dead no feed back is give and the charger won't charge.
    I used a 12v car battery charger, set it to low and let it charge for about a minute then took it off and immediately plugged in the iglide charger and it worked. The charger used had a gauge to show amps and I knew the battery was taking charge. I tried an older battery that had been dead a good while but nothing happened when I connected the 12v charger and I knew it was too far gone.
    You aren't trying to charge the battery using the 12v charger just trying to get enough power in the battery to run the circuit board.

  8. #168
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Also small spark when connecting the simple charger is a good sign and means current is flowing. No small spark means no current which is what happened to my battery that could not be revived. Polarity is important, make sure your +/- wires are correct when doing this.

  9. #169
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    You can use a 9v transistor radio battery with the snap type connectors, just a little challenging to get continuity, but it only has to be a few seconds for the charger to turn on and start charging.
    This was a somewhat common problem when we'd encounter a stone cold battery after someone left their lights on overnight.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  10. #170
    Quote Originally Posted by cadamson View Post
    Maddog, see my photos but I am still using an iglide charger, my husband tried one and three but he is wondering if it is instead of one and six? (1 and 3 did not work)
    Maddog is correct, use 1 and 3. Post 6 connects to the printed circuit board inside the battery box which in turn sends power to the motors.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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