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Thread: I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

  1. #111
    Quote Originally Posted by TREA18 View Post
    I'm back and thanks for all your help. All of you. After reading, we are some what concluding that if I go lifePO4 that it should be 24V, at least 10ah and 20a?
    Not sure on Ah needs. My regular battery should be just over 10Ah and 50A, but that's the one I said I would be reluctant to take to the fairgrounds. Hopefully we can learn something more when I get the Watts-Up meter hooked up to a battery in a few days.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  2. #112
    Sounds good. Thanks

  3. #113
    Quote Originally Posted by TREA18 View Post
    Sounds good. Thanks
    Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #114
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.
    I was interested in making it removable like the kind you showed. The company I called from California seemed very helpful in finding the right battery if I was confident on my numbers, and I am very interested in maddog's too I just haven't seen it yet. If it becomes too difficult to find the numbers at might go his route. Thanks

  5. #115
    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    Why not get the exact battery Maddog has if it is available? He is happy with his. Even if this experiment works, finding out the correct or honest Ah of battery packs for sale is no easy task.
    I have the new Watts-Up and might have the test battery ready to try tomorrow. Hopefully we will learn something. On your end you could call that supplier and ask how the battery pack you are interested in is constructed. What is relevant is the individual cell mAh. That can be looked up by the coding on the side of the individual cells inside the pack. A photo of the writing would suffice. The second thing to find out and just as important is the arrangement of cells. How many are in series and how many parallel sets are there. That answer would be something like 8SXP. It is the "X" we need to know for the number of parallel rows of 8 series. I say 8 in a series because it takes 8 cells of LifeP04 to make one unit of a 24 volt LifePO4 pack.
    Last edited by nonoise; 07-09-2019 at 10:04 PM. Reason: clarity
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  6. #116
    I'll see what I can find out. maddog I have tried to send a message and I don't think you are getting them.??

  7. #117
    Quote Originally Posted by TREA18 View Post
    I'll see what I can find out. maddog I have tried to send a message and I don't think you are getting them.??
    As a minimum if you get the mAh rating of each cell and the total number of cells we can calculate what the battery pack is. Anyway see what they know.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  8. #118
    [QUOTE=nonoise;1881736...Hopefully we can learn something more when I get the Watts-Up meter hooked up to a battery in a few days.[/QUOTE]

    This experiment did not go well. Fortunately I used one of my $10 batteries. It may be toast or needs the bms replaced.

    Anyway, I was very careful to keep the wiring correct and not get any shorts, took my time to follow directions. Actually it is quite simple you just run the neg side through the meter, battery black to meter and meter black load black (Iglide). The positive red is only a tap wire not a pass through so it can be a lighter gauge. So I built up the battery in an old Iglide battery box with the three wires coming out through a hole. They were encased in shrink wrap just to make them easier to handle. And each had a wire nut on them. The battery was then inserted in the chair. Chair was off, no green light. I repeat the chair was *not* on. I then hooked up one black wire, fine. But touching the second black wire I get a spark! Whoa! That can't be right. I know Watts-Up draws current, but I haven't supplied any yet. Lets try that again. Yep sparks again. Pull the battery. Now hook up the second wire, being the black one, remember the red one is untouched, unconnected during all this. Well there is no spark if the battery is not installed in the Iglide. Later tonight I took the battery all apart to see if I made a mistake, no mistakes. I then checked the battery voltage ... guess what *zero*. Okay I go charge it. It won't charge now either. It beats me exactly what happened. If I feel like it I'll look at the battery to see what is salvageable. Fortunately the Iglide is still working just fine but I never turned it on. I am not so sure I want to try this again though without backups and or more knowledge.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  9. #119
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    That is odd, don't know why that happened. I have not used mine much but I use 4 wires inline. Red and black source side goes to battery and red and black load goes to chair.

  10. #120
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    That is odd, don't know why that happened. I have not used mine much but I use 4 wires inline. Red and black source side goes to battery and red and black load goes to chair.
    It seems simple enough. My first one was installed by the bike shop using the three wire method to reduce the wiring from front to back of the trike, and the diagram at that time was not as clear as todays: https://tinyurl.com/y2oksrtn

    This morning I thought maybe I had somehow developed a short in the battery box plug, so I tore the thing completely down and checked it out. The plug is good and the rest of the wiring was also good. *But* you are going to laugh at me, the battery voltage now measures 29.2V. I don't know why it came up zero last night, makes no sense. I will probably put it all back together and try again, but this time all the wires will be already hooked up, haven't decided.

    I am sure there is a back positive though the Iglide even when it is off because no red wire was connected to the Watts-up when the blacks sparked. It makes me wonder what happens when the battery gets installed to the chair.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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