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Thread: I-Glide battery charge, or Next, even Tailwind

  1. #31
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    The thing that puzzles me is why did Independence/JJ add all those bogus connections?
    I think maybe it uses some of the other plugs of info but does not need them. The on/off button light is supposed to blink when the battery is low, I think one of the pugs probably supplies that info. That would not work with lithium.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    I think maybe it uses some of the other plugs of info but does not need them. The on/off button light is supposed to blink when the battery is low, I think one of the pugs probably supplies that info. That would not work with lithium.
    Can you see the green on off light? I have to lean way over and look for it. A blinking light wouldn't help unless someone told me. But I think I have seen the green blink, I just don't remember if it was the lithium battery running on two wires and no pcb or one of the NiMH ones using three and the pcb.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #33
    Bob wrote:
    >THe BMS is a battery management system. It equalizes each cell cluster to maintain equalization of the voltage. AND it also is "supposed" to prevent battery damage by over-discharge either instantly or below the overall low >discharge. It is supposed to do exactly what the name implies.

    That is my understanding too.

    >There have been occurrences of unintended tripping which is supposed to prevent further use and damage to the battery system and trip failure at some inconvenient times and places. However, by all accounts progress is >being made on such things. Is this true????? Who knows?

    Well my trikes 48 volt LiFePO4 system failed when I first got it. It would run, then cut out and come back on, only to fail permanently again, so I took it back. They traced it to a loose power connection that they had made. Once fixed, they said they also had to reset the BMS because it had tripped due to the arcing, spikes or surges. That was the first time I had heard the term BMS and did not know enough to quiz them further.

    >Battery chargers are made that can tell you exactly how many Amp hours you replace when you charge them and assure the equalization of the cell clusters. Some guys swear by them and a few at them. There are more >than a few who swear at the BMS' as well! Evidently it can be difficult to reset.
    >I believe that more than 99% of us crips, want a plug and go charging system physically quiet and reasonably small sized. In other words convenient. Most of us are not Nuclear scientists, or electrical engineers, especially >not me.

    Look at this charger, it seems to do 24 volts and has the same description as the larger one which includes amps. It's too bad wheelchair stuff is locked into 24 volts because the ebike community has pretty much moved on to higher voltages.
    http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-b...satiator.html#
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  4. #34
    Senior Member maddog's Avatar
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    I charge my chair at night in my bedroom with a 7 amp charger that has a fairly loud fan. I always listen to when the charger fan cuts off to give me a rough estimate of how much power I have used in the day. It usually charges in an hour so I know I have used about half of my 15 a/h battery, some days more some days less but I always have an idea of how much the battery has been discharged.
    I bought a Watts Up meter https://www.amazon.com/Watts-RC-Anal.../dp/B001B6N2WK that I was going to install between the battery and the motors to let me know how many amps I had used at any given time in the day to determine state of charge. I never installed it because from charge time I found that I did not have to worry about conserving battery.

    If I were to redo my setup I would probably go with a smaller battery maybe 10-12 a/h instead of 15 a/h and look into a bluetooth system like this and I would also let them build the battery. http://www.batteryspace.com/PCM-with...oth/SMBus.aspx

  5. #35
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    No Noise, The controllers on our power chairs are designed for 30 volt dc.max. You can buy a controller from the hobby folks that will work for higher voltages, there are people who do that.

    Most controllers on the market are designed for single axis use (a single drive motor) we require a two axis controller. That is unless you want to have a tank steer, that can create some different problems as well.

    BUT>> get that BUT you had best know what you are doing,read the directions until you memorize what it says. For me that will never happen, I have CRS.

    More volts equals more speed at the same sized range motor. that is quite simple with DC voltage. in themselves motors are dumb---they do what the controller tells them to do.

    IF you go to wheelchairdriver.com in the forum there is a whole list of things some of those guys have tried and questioned the resulting creations. Those who are electrically proficient can have a ball with some of that stuff. At my age and aptitude, that's no longer an option. I also cannot afford any mistakes, and they are too easily made! I think I'll stick to the 24 volt systems.

    There are a lot of discussions about chargers, calibrating Amperage use, etc.etc.

    I get and understand why a BMS would become faulty because of bad circuitry. Undersized wiring and sloppy as manufactured connections on/in the circuits may also create undesired heating problems with BMS as well as the circuitry in some of our own as yet unmodified chairs, I have myself, experienced that.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by maddog View Post
    I charge my chair at night in my bedroom with a 7 amp charger that has a fairly loud fan. I always listen to when the charger fan cuts off to give me a rough estimate of how much power I have used in the day. It usually charges in an hour so I know I have used about half of my 15 a/h battery, some days more some days less but I always have an idea of how much the battery has been discharged.
    I bought a Watts Up meter https://www.amazon.com/Watts-RC-Anal.../dp/B001B6N2WK that I was going to install between the battery and the motors to let me know how many amps I had used at any given time in the day to determine state of charge. I never installed it because from charge time I found that I did not have to worry about conserving battery.

    If I were to redo my setup I would probably go with a smaller battery maybe 10-12 a/h instead of 15 a/h and look into a bluetooth system like this and I would also let them build the battery. http://www.batteryspace.com/PCM-with...oth/SMBus.aspx
    I've got that Watts Up meter on my recumbent trike, but I only use it as a volt meter to keep track of the state of charge. For this project I bought some of these little voltmeters http://www.ebay.com/itm/271966065468 They only measure between 2.5 and 30 dc, but for a couple of bucks that's okay. Testing them, they showed 27.2 while both of my old expensive radio shack testers showed 27.4.
    Your bluetooth find is fantastic.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #37
    >No Noise, The controllers on our power chairs are designed for 30 volt dc.max.

    That?s because power chairs are designed around two lead acid batteries powering two brushed motors. That?s not the case with the I-Glide and the add-ons, except the ZX1.

    >You can buy a controller from the hobby folks that will work for higher voltages, there a

    I originally designed my trike with a 36 volt system, which was not enough, so I upgraded it. They took back the controller, battery, and charger and for a small fee at the time I stepped up to 48 volts resulting in more speed and I claim more power, but they say no. It does climb hills now when it would not before.

    Then I saw a broken 36 volt Bionix kit for $50 so I grabbed it to play with eventually fixing it. Once I saw how it worked, I did not like it, but the battery was fine. So I used the battery and a new 36 volt controller to power my smart drive clone. It worked great, fast. 50% faster than 24 volts, simple math, you know how that works. I only used it once. On my return trip I found it also accelerates 50% faster and ended up on my backside, scared me good. I looked at ways to find a slower throttle. Phil?s VW one might work, and I bought a similar one but never finished that project for some reason. I?ve now got the smart drive clone hooked up to a 24 volt NMC battery, and controller. It is still too quick off the line so I?m adding wheelie bars.

    >Most controllers on the market are designed for single axis use (a single drive motor) we >require a two axis controller. That is unless you want to have a tank steer, that can create

    Skid steer is what I do with the three wheeler and the smartdrive clone. I have one hand on the throttle and the other on the opposing rim. Currently I need to make an adjustment to offset the position of the drive because it?s pushing the wrong direction.

    >BUT>> get that BUT you had best know what you are doing,read the directions until >you memorize what it says. For me that will never happen, I have CRS.

    I let my vendor chose the correct controller and program it. He did sell me the interface to change the setup, but reading through the instructions, I have not touched any settings.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  8. #38
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    Maddog'

    I really like this as an indicator for you power used. Especially for the LiFePO4 battery system, especially if you are a tad goosey about the BMS. It would help you if you really go long distances in your chair, which apparently you do not. but there are folks who do. The lithium batteries when you do use them to their extreme will fade out quickly and you will harm them. Being aware of your power usage can relax some of your anxiety about this.

  9. #39
    Have any luck with these batteries?

    My issue is, I've got a Tailwind chair for my 12 y/o daughter, and the battery is starting to die. It will hardly take a charge, shuts off on her every once in a while, yada yada yada...it's dying for sure.

    Sooooo...I called Clinton River Medical, and a new battery is $950. They said they "might" be able to jump her existing one so it would start working better and last bit longer...and that would be 75 bucks. Bargain...IF it works. And for how long. *shrugs shoulders*

    Other than that...I looked at links that refer to cracking the case open and buying new 'sub C' batteries and it would be better than ever...don't know how accurate that info is though:

    http://drkfs.net/IGLIDE.htm

    But...the process petrifies me. I seriously don't think that I would be able to do that. I actually really wish there was somebody out there that would do this for me and my little one for whatever price...as long as it works, and saves me from dishing out 1k for a new one...

    Any other options or advice? Should I maybe start a new thread for this? Just figured I would post it here because you all seem to be extremely knowledgeable in this area on these particular iGlide/Tailwind batteries...

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated...most of what you guys are posting looks like hieroglyphics to me, so I apologize in advance...but I would LOVE to figure out a better option for my little one.

  10. #40
    Hi Joey, Yes as a matter of fact I'm using an old $50 Bionix battery and a transformer to cut it down to 24 volts. It's a temporary solution, that seems to be working out fine since the battery hasn't failed yet. But I don't far.
    In order for me or anyone to think about your best lowest cost reliable options PM or post where you live. I bet we can help.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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