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Thread: Replacing ZRA caster fork bearing

  1. #1

    Replacing ZRA caster fork bearing

    So the bearings in my caster fork are smoked. There is years of beach, snow and dirt on these and before I dig in I'm wondering about scoops on removal. I can't find instructions so I'm reaching out. It's a Tilite ZRA bullet caster. Do you just take off the caster and the bolt off the bottom of the bullet and then slide off the bearing hood and bearings? It's not just coming apart so before i start prying I figured I would ask. N
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    "...the most reliable and useful courage was that which arises from the fair estimation of the encountered peril..." Herman Melville: Moby Dick

  2. #2
    Yes, it is good to get bearings replaced well before they are too flogged or seized. Bearings in that condition can screw the housing.
    Does this discussion here provide answers for your model ZRA?
    http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...nd-what-to-get

  3. #3
    Yeah, not really. The king pin on the bullet housing is intact. I'm sure it's just the bearing race that's stuck on there. I was just looking for some assurance before I start working it. My problems are a whole lot simpler than what they were dealing with.
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    "...the most reliable and useful courage was that which arises from the fair estimation of the encountered peril..." Herman Melville: Moby Dick

  4. #4
    I sprayed some liquid wrentch to pull my caster off a Tr. I'd try that before prying it. Forget calling Tilite, they're no help at all. The standard line is we can't talk to you, go thru your dme.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by 9000ft View Post
    Yeah, not really. The king pin on the bullet housing is intact. I'm sure it's just the bearing race that's stuck on there. I was just looking for some assurance before I start working it. My problems are a whole lot simpler than what they were dealing with.
    That is a bonus then; the link was primarily for the exploded diagrams. It looks to be a simple procedure of removing the castor wheel, removing the fork spindle nut , dropping the fork free and pressing/punching/drawing out the bearings.
    If yours have had the exposure you describe the bearings may be seized or firmed to the stem bolt or the housing. In that case what Patrick advises would be a good course of action.
    I use 'Mouse Oil', auto trans oil/kero mix or any other propriety release agent at hand.
    Coincidentally, after my reply I thought to check the castors on my 2GX. As per the previous time, there was hair gathered on the spindle sleeve; pulled them apart and removed the crud. One bearing seal came free with the spindle removal. This revealed the bearing to be a bit on the dry side so I took a closer look at the other castor and the same outside bearing has evidence of dryness too (very slight rust at the inner race seal joint) also the castor fork mainstem bearings have some excess movement.
    It is time to replace the bearing sets before more wear and corresponding damage to stems and housings.
    Thanks for the prompt 9000ft

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