my left brake has not been releasing when transfering out of the car sometimes it gets hung up and ill get back in car take tires off put back on lock brake unlock brake make sure its working then transfer to chair but then it wont release all the way it clicks and ill have to get back in car do process all over again any ideas can i squirt some wd 40 in the piston or something
to alcohol the cause of-and solution to-all of lifes problems[homer simpson]
WD40 is not appropriate for this application.
Best approach: dissemble piston, clean it, lube lightly with silicone grease, and reassemble. Also lube cables with aerosol silicone grease using cable lube tool.
Quick approach: work aerosol grease into piston.
(I must go now, but I'll be back later to put links to products mentioned.)
Chas
TiLite TR3
Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.
Dragon NaturallySpeaking user.
"I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
<UNKNOWN AUTHOR>
thanks ill try get some of that grease
to alcohol the cause of-and solution to-all of lifes problems
Chas
TiLite TR3
Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.
Dragon NaturallySpeaking user.
"I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
<UNKNOWN AUTHOR>
figured id update this i called steve at ds locks it was the little washers by the bolt that holds the block on
to alcohol the cause of-and solution to-all of lifes problems
Thanks for the update
Chas
TiLite TR3
Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.
Dragon NaturallySpeaking user.
"I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
<UNKNOWN AUTHOR>
Glad you got it sorted with Steve -- he is always helpful. I find we need to tighten ours up every few months. I totally agree with Chas about choices for lubricants. I never use WD-40 unless there is corrosion -- I learned that the hard way.
Partner of an incredible stroke survivor. Limitations: hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). Equipment: TiLite ZRA 2 and 2GX, Spinergy ZX-1, RioMobility Firefly. Knowledge: relative newbie for high-level equipment (2012), but willing to try to help others who are new with similar limitations (definitely not a guru, but inquisitive).
That's the truth. Steve is awesome.Originally Posted by elarson
"WD" stands for 'water displacement' and that's exactly what it is for! You're right to never use it unless you're trying to keep water/rust at bay. It's a crappy lubricant. Metal on metal = grease.
"If you only know your side of an issue, you know nothing." -John Stuart Mill, On Liberty
"Even what those with the greatest reputation for knowing it all claim to understand and defend are but opinions..." -Heraclitus, Fragments
AFAIK it's not a good choice for water "displacement" either if you leave it. It's miscible in water as is CRC also, which means that although it initially breaks up rust/frees up rusty stuff, the remaining product is a conduit bringing moisture back into the problem area. Best to blow off with compressed air and introduce oil or grease once freed-up.
Classic example: seizing up air cooled Beetle door hinges.
69yo male T12 complete since 1995
NW NJ
steve said never use any kind of oil or wd 40 just clean cylinders with a paper towel
to alcohol the cause of-and solution to-all of lifes problems
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote