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Thread: Batteries

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by RollPositive View Post
    Why would you use an electric blanket if you have issues with not being able to feel sensations that would harm you? I don't know...why would you?

    Give the possible user some acknowledgement of having common sense. Common sense..a commodity in short supply.

    Think about if the same could happen sitting in front of a heater and being to close... But, probably not as much of a danger as heated devices that lay on the body or the body lays on
    Just a reminder, as our SCI nurses have done when the subject of these electric devices have been mentioned on this forum, nothing pejorative. It is just that in 13 years on this forum, I have read about and seen pictures many, many times of bad burns from heating pads, heated bedding, and even the buckwheat hull pillows and neck wraps that you microwave.
    Last edited by gjnl; 11-05-2018 at 10:03 PM.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by gjnl View Post
    Just a reminder, as our SCI nurses have done when the subject of these electric devices have been mentioned, nothing pejorative. It is just that in 13 years on this forum, I have read about and seen pictures many, many times of bad burns from heating pads, heated bedding, and even the buckwheat hull pillows and neck wraps that you microwave.
    My doc's advice has always been to layer up, even in bed and no electric or heated devices.
    I wear gloves year round now due to fragile skin, poor circulation and loss of sensation. I mentioned to doc about my hands in cold weather turn pale/white and cold to touch them to face or places have feeling. So, ask them about heated gloves or pocket warmers.
    Same thing "No", just wear warmer, good quality gloves could afford and stay inside. Notice paling of fingers hold against body to warm.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by RollPositive View Post
    With 24s your battery lights should not drop that fast...the 1st light should drop off after about 5-7 miles the 2nd light should drop off after 8-10 that last one after that 10-11 mile range.

    Also with Permobil after rolling around say for 5 miles and one green goes out after you stop it should come back and relight.

    I would say with not to much steep hills etc you should get 15 miles on a charge use your odometer vs the lights for a more true picture of miles per charge.


    Top speed, rider weight, jack rabbit starts and stops, grass all play a part in lowering the over all charge.
    I kinda understand what your saying.
    Just adding a bit that has been in my experience when battery gauge is full and drops quickly it's batteries are coming to the end of life cycle. Only other time had that happen with fairly new batteries, less than year old were either one or both batteries had defect.
    Also, once when the Tech went to check load on each battery found one post corroded and it's nut was loose on bolt. Still batteries had to be replaced due to load test was bad. But, reason was loose connection and causing problem for both due to way they are wired together.

  4. #34
    The problem is you have able body people giving advice to people that might have limited strength and mobility.

    So if someone has say muscular dystrophy and is struggling with weight of a shirt then you had a jacket or gloves now you cut down there mobility and independence with bulky layers.

    With technology one can use things and devices to keep warm in doors and out doors.

    In bed we use an electric blanket on the bottom allowing a simple sheet for top use and not be weighted down by heavy blankets.

    We also use Google Minis by our bed tied to Nest thermostat to warm up the room by voice control on cold nights.


    Its simple people can give ideas that others might not have heard about and or tried and if it works then great.

    But to repeat what someone has said in the past just because a Doctor or Nurse says it ???

    We become our own problem solvers and we learn from each other.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeP2013 View Post
    I kinda understand what your saying.
    Just adding a bit that has been in my experience when battery gauge is full and drops quickly it's batteries are coming to the end of life cycle. Only other time had that happen with fairly new batteries, less than year old were either one or both batteries had defect.
    Also, once when the Tech went to check load on each battery found one post corroded and it's nut was loose on bolt. Still batteries had to be replaced due to load test was bad. But, reason was loose connection and causing problem for both due to way they are wired together.

    Yes when they are drying quick its because they are no good, or something none fixable causing them not to hold a charge.

    Also have a dead cell could also cause a newer battery from holding a charge and can only be fixed with replacement.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by RollPositive View Post
    Also have a dead cell could also cause a newer battery from holding a charge and can only be fixed with replacement.
    A shorted cell wouldn't prevent the battery from taking a charge; rather, it would cause the battery's "fully charged" open-circuit voltage to be considerably less than would otherwise be expected (~2.1V per cell for AGM/GEL... AGM typ a tad higher than GEL).

    This poses a problem for a (stupid) voltage sensing charger: the fully charged 5 cell battery will now read ~10.5V and be indistinguishable from a discharged 6 cell battery! As a result, the charger will sit there and keep cooking the battery (overcharging it in an attempt to get its open-circuit voltage up to ~12V).

    A slightly smarter charger notices the amount of current (charge per unit time) that is flowing into the battery -- along with how long that has been going on ("Gee, I've been trying to fill this 1 gallon bucket for 8 hours and its STILL not full!") to deduce that the battery is compromised.

    An even smarter charger would know how much charge has been removed from the battery (by monitoring its USE!) and make an even more informed decision as to the overall "health" of the battery (e.g., predicting remaining lifespan).

    This is why the appliance (chair) that is using the battery should interact with the charger that is replenishing it (why not exploit all the information you have available instead of trying to infer the battery's state from just its voltage/charge current?)

    If I've driven 100 miles in my vehicle, I know roughly how much fuel I need to add to the tank to return it to its state prior to all that travel -- WITHOUT having to look at the fuel gauge!

  7. #37
    Senior Member landrover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RollPositive View Post
    With 24s your battery lights should not drop that fast...the 1st light should drop off after about 5-7 miles the 2nd light should drop off after 8-10 that last one after that 10-11 mile range.

    Also with Permobil after rolling around say for 5 miles and one green goes out after you stop it should come back and relight.

    I would say with not to much steep hills etc you should get 15 miles on a charge use your odometer vs the lights for a more true picture of miles per charge.


    Top speed, rider weight, jack rabbit starts and stops, grass all play a part in lowering the over all charge.
    My 34s never behaved in that way. I could drive for miles, with no drop in green bars, then suddenly be several down, or in the yellow, and drop bars even faster shortly after.

    I’m beginning to wonder if somehow my EZ lock bolt is causing an issue. The DME tech had to remove the EZ lock bolt in order to slide the batteries in, then reinstall the bolt. I’m wondering when I lock into the lock, if it shorts the battery some. It’s only a small sample size, but the one day I didn’t notice an issue with a drop in the battery guage was the day I didn’t use my van.
    Last edited by landrover; 11-07-2018 at 08:53 PM.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by landrover View Post
    My 34s never behaved in that way. I could drive for miles, with no drop in green bars, then suddenly be several down, or in the yellow, and drop bars even faster shortly after.

    I’m beginning to wonder if somehow my EZ lock bolt is causing an issue. The DME tech had to remove the EZ lock bolt in order to slide the batteries in, then reinstall the bolt. I’m wondering when I lock into the lock, if it shorts the battery some. It’s only a small sample size, but the one day I didn’t notice an issue with a drop in the battery guage was the day I didn’t use my van.
    Just off my head and useless, I'm sure! Anyway, I wonder about that bolt, could it have come into contact with batteries and damaged them? My last van battery died way to soon for it's age. When Roadside removed he found battery case cracked and bulged out leaking "acid" where hold down bracket was place in partly sideways causing damage to battery. He washed battery tray and poured water down fenderwell. Said looked like eventually the case cracked causing leak and dead battery.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeP2013 View Post
    Just off my head and useless, I'm sure! Anyway, I wonder about that bolt, could it have come into contact with batteries and damaged them? My last van battery died way to soon for it's age. When Roadside removed he found battery case cracked and bulged out leaking "acid" where hold down bracket was place in partly sideways causing damage to battery. He washed battery tray and poured water down fenderwell. Said looked like eventually the case cracked causing leak and dead battery.
    While excessive (mechanical) force can damage the battery, it seems unlikely that THAT much force would have been present (to deform the battery to the point where it appears to be "bulging"). Bulging is usually caused by overcharging (which the charger should prevent -- unless it is too stupid to detect that the battery has a shorted cell, etc.). Gas forms inside the battery and will cause the sides to bulge, over time. If the pressure gets high enough, there are safety vents in the battery that will vent the gas to prevent an explosive rupture of the battery.

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