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Thread: Modifying my Aero T

  1. #1

    Modifying my Aero T

    Following on from my "looking at buying another chair' thread.

    My 2GX is an 18" (45cm) frame with neutral camber.

    I have bought a used TiLite AeroT with a 16" (40cm) frame that has a 6? camber. It is too acute.
    How to slot my frame into a 16"? I thought I would begin by trying a tube with less camber to give me the extra width. And if required, a solid seat pan fabricated from alloy that will span the frame runners and carry my Roho.

    I have done some basic trig calculations and at this point I think that a camber tube 440mm @ 2? will afford enough width.
    If this isn't successful the next step is splitting the frame and welding in 5cm (2") spacer tubes for the mainframe, footplate and the seatback grab and latching bars.
    Who else has embarked on this course of action....and succeeded?


    Has anyone got one lying around that I can put to use or point me in the right direction for second hand supplies?
    I am in Auckland New Zealand
    Last edited by slow_runner; 03-10-2017 at 12:15 AM.

  2. #2
    I have done similar but not identical things to what is now my back up chair (AeroZ1). Then used trig and 3d CAD (Sketchup) to model what is now my current chair (TR3). How confident are you in your trig skills?

    Your plans(s) will both work in theory. Its success depends on your confidence, available tools, careful planning, and skill sets. Personally (with my skill set) I would tackle the longer camber tube. Welding (especially nonferrous) is way out of my league.
    Last edited by chasmengr; 03-10-2017 at 01:59 AM.
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by chasmengr View Post
    I have done similar but not identical things to what is now my back up chair (AeroZ1). Then used trig and 3d CAD (Sketchup) to model what is now my current chair (TR3). How confident are you in your trig skills?

    Your plans(s) will both work in theory. Its success depends on your confidence, available tools, careful planning, and skill sets. Personally (with my skill set) I would tackle the longer camber tube. Welding (especially nonferrous) is way out of my league.
    Hi Chas. My trig is OK if I stick with Soh Cah Toa If any welding is to be done it will be carried out by my sons' contact who is well experienced.
    A basic T frame jig may need to be fabricated depending on the stresses that are inherent in the frame (??). As for the rest of it, this mod is based on instinct, imagination and necessity. Necessity being the driver.
    I will start with the camber tube. That will allow me to ride this chair, tune it within its function limits and then assess what comes of that. This chair has a V front end with 10" (25cm) plate so that may or may not be problematic.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 03-10-2017 at 03:40 AM.

  4. #4
    Good approach!

    When I modified my AeroZ, I always began with reversible changes in case it didn't work out. Changing camber tube is much more reversible than welding (duh).

    Here's my TR and the welding jig that Tilite uses (jig is holding my chair):
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  5. #5
    If you stand the wheels up straight on the T and run the axle recievers out you can probably get enough width. If its still not enough, you can dish the wheels out or get longer axles and put spacers on them.

  6. #6
    Senior Member ChesBay's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chasmengr View Post
    Good approach!

    When I modified my AeroZ, I always began with reversible changes in case it didn't work out. Changing camber tube is much more reversible than welding (duh).

    Here's my TR and the welding jig that Tilite uses (jig is holding my chair):
    Nice work Chas.

  7. #7
    Thanks!
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  8. #8
    I would have got back earlier but I've been conversing with Heath Robinson and doing a bit of reading, mostly here on the CC and also viewing T frame images to get a feel for what I might need to do.
    Thanks for the links and images Chas, it is all helpful; that is a snappy chair. Also thanks for the advice bfd
    I hooked up my Spinergy wheels to the T today and measured off then added the calculated differential between the 6 & 2 degree camber tube (4.2cm). I think that with adjustment & 1cm spacers it will afford enough for my carcass. As an initial test, I sat in(on?) it today and moved about the house.
    The V is a bit tight so as an interim measure, I flipped the footplate forward. I'm not sure that I like these glide out units with their suspension characteristic. On the spec sheet these are rated at 125 -180lb; I assume that is per unit?
    The seat is 16" x 15" with a custom frame depth of 1" but still needs more depth in my inexperienced opinion. Thinking on, I am also toying with the idea of extending the seat frame to the rear with a slug insert that will carry the seat back frame. I believe that addition will give me enough depth. I can trial that out by removing the back frame and test fitting.
    The camber tube clamp is the longer version and that should work in OK.
    Widening and stretching should give me the clearance required for my legs; as it is, there is too much contact on my calves and that will not be good in the long term.
    The options are to sell and buy another larger chair, or proceed.
    I have made enquries about shipping as buying local would be a slim hope.
    The difference is only $$$ innit?
    Last edited by slow_runner; 03-12-2017 at 12:53 AM.

  9. #9
    I love your tube extension concept for making the seat longer Aluminum tubing from hardware store Then if it works good, epoxy or bolts.

    FYI One item I have found to be helpful in chair modding is shaft collars. If you haven't thought of them yet, they might expand your ideas.

    (Today is a weak cognitive day for me - normal MS cycling - so I'm failing to have focus on all you said.)
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  10. #10
    Is your backrest wide enough? I ask because I widened a 15 inch chair out to over 16 using a different axle tube and spacers only to find the resulting chair too uncomfortable to use due to the narrow back. About a year ago I switched backs for a 16 inch one and monkeyed with the hinging, so it is now usable.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

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