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Thread: TiLite ZRA caster broken. Need help in figuring out where and what to get?

  1. #11
    No way! I'm currently dealing with the same failure but I have Frogs Legs.
    I just ordered some Vibra-Tite and hoping that'll give a temporary fix for light use. No cobbled streets until it's properly mended!

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by chairDroid View Post
    The screw below part 1 looks quite long than what I have in my chair. I dont even have any spacers from what i see. How is this possible? If I get part 1A even without the external spacers, the screw below it looks longer. Is it so or am I obsessing too much :/
    I think that space is taken up in your caster and bearing. As long as the two #1 parts are the same between series 1 and 2, you should be fine with the standard part.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by robotnik View Post
    The problem is this nut, let's call it "kingpin", because in normal use you don't have to remove it. It's glued in the socket, and when you have to change the fork's bearings, you just unscrew the "other" nut under the fork.
    Quote Originally Posted by robotnik View Post
    Ok, so let's go in the right order to be crystal clear :
    Answer 1 : your only need is part 1, right side. You already have all the other parts, but you will have to remove them from your kingpin before ! So, insure you can unscrew your fork using the nut 11 underneath.
    So this is weird. I opened up my caster assembly, to verify what all parts are broken beyond repair so I can order them. Turns out the whole damn thing is different from the diagram we've been seeing for ZRA Series 1. Here are all the parts after breaking it down:
    Name:  Caster_assembly.jpg
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    The screw you're seeing goes from between (underneath) the fork into the socket which is fixed on the frame, and not the other way round as depicted in diagram.
    Name:  Fork-1.jpg
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    At this point, once I have re-tightened everything in, the caster is working fine, except there is a slight sound when it spins 180 degree. Like at a certain point while spinning it will make a slight "cut" sound. Also while riding on even slightly rough terrain there is some sound. Other than that it's working fine. If it tightened properly now, I am not sure what's wrong with it. Is it the socket, or bearings.

    I messaged Sportaid and didn't get a response :/ Will mail the TiLite seller I go this chair from.
    Keep pushing!

  4. #14
    Yeah, this appears to have been switched out from a stud to a bolt. But the bearing appears to be correct as far as I can see. Looking at your first picture in your first post, it looks like there is a hole for a set screw. Is there one?
    If you are getting noise out of the system now, you can expect failure. Keep working on it. J B Weld has helped me out several times.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  5. #15
    The original ZRA was made with a bolt not a stud. and the set screw is on the back to hold the bolt in place. And the sound is probability the bearing the bearing should be the same with either bolt or stud.

  6. #16
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  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by spinner View Post
    like this
    Bingo! Look at that. Get a longer set screw, any screw with the same threads to get a tight fit, and replace the bearing. Maybe Spinner is up to parting with these? You probably need to replace bearings on both sides.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  8. #18
    Senior Member robotnik's Avatar
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    Jan 2013
    North Brittany, France
    Ok, so your ZRA looks like Spinner has described, mine has a kingpin as the pict on TiLite's site (I had to change my fork's bearings 3 years ago and I've been able to verify)
    You must pay attention to the small screw behind the "part 1". If it is lost (or maybe just unscrewed) that's why you had this issue? this screw is there only to keep in place the bolt, without using any glue (the bolt in your assembly can't be glued, because you need to remove it if you have to change your fork's bearings)
    Have a sharp look to your bearings too. If they don't rotate freely, they can help the bolt to unscrew. Rare, but it can happen.
    I'm not sure you can easily change your bolt for another one with the same threads, because the leigth -H- of the smooth part controls the bearing's play, and the diameter has to fit too? But you can check the assembly and estimate if there's enough undamaged treads in "part 1" to use it "as is" or if it needs a repair.
    I think you can also order the new "part 1" from TiLite (don't forget the nut 11 in this case), it may fit even it's a kingpin instead of a bolt.
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    C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
    my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor
    Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

  9. #19
    This is probably a terrible idea in the long run but I've been able to swap over the forks and, so far, they hold. Having the dodgy housing on one side and the matching dodgy bolt on the other. Going to apply vibra tite and hope for the best... I will be being very, very careful with rough terrain though!

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by spinner View Post
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    Hey man, are you selling those? If not where do I buy new ones just like them?
    Keep pushing!

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