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Thread: D-Locks and Icon

  1. #1

    D-Locks and Icon

    I went to order d-locks for my Icon and when I went to the d-lock website it says "*must include chair dimensions". I change my camber occasionally (for example when I play basketball with my kid, I got to 6 degrees, I usually roll with 2 degrees but in SF I switch to 4 because some of the sidewalks I use have a large slope).

    So my question is if I get d-locks for my Icon what do I need to hold constant for them to work? I also assume since they ask for the measurments they must send different parts based on what I say. What is different? The piston length? Disk size?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by t8burst View Post
    I went to order d-locks for my Icon and when I went to the d-lock website it says "*must include chair dimensions". I change my camber occasionally (for example when I play basketball with my kid, I got to 6 degrees, I usually roll with 2 degrees but in SF I switch to 4 because some of the sidewalks I use have a large slope).

    So my question is if I get d-locks for my Icon what do I need to hold constant for them to work? I also assume since they ask for the measurments they must send different parts based on what I say. What is different? The piston length? Disk size?

    Thanks.
    A customer of mine who just ordered an Oracing wheelchair ordered a set of D's Locks for it. D's requested the chair's measurements to process the order -- I don't recall them ever asking for chair measurements before. My guess is that that to ensure proper tension of the cables a one-size-fits-all approach is not ideal. As for changing camber angles: when you increase the camber the disc gets "pulled" away from the piston. To compensate you would need to adjust the piston positioning proportionately. D's only makes one disc size diameter and disc plate thickness.

  3. #3
    Camber changes are ok, footprint (side to side) is ok.

    There will be a maximum insertion point for the axle tubes into the axle bracket, but only an issue in our smallest pediatric sizes.

    Not sure why they need any dimensions to be honest.

  4. #4
    Edit to say - what I meant by "ok" is because of what Stephen said - you just need to move/adjust the piston - honestly though, the change in distance that would happen 3" (or so) away from the center of the axle, you would be talking about maybe a millimeter or two, that would be taken care of by the taper on the piston that goes into the plate.

    If you set it at 4 degrees for initial setup, and you only ever see a 2 degree change, I can't imagine needing to re-adjust anything. If you space your wheels in/out when you change camber, the plunger moves with the axle tube, so no need to re-adjust anything there.

    Re-adjusting the plunger would be exactly right in the theoretical, but not necessary in the practical.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Oddity's Avatar
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    If you've already broken out the tools to change your camber, moving the pistons in/out wouldn't be that big of a deal, other than requiring another tool in your kit. I think what Jeff says it spot on, though. The plunger that comes out of the piston is ~1/2" long and shaped like a cone, with a small flat spot at the tip where it engages the hub ring. Since the cone plunger is spring loaded, it works fine if it protrudes its full length out of the piston before engaging the ring, or if it barely comes out of the piston. Setting up for 4deg camber with 1/2 of the plunger protruding from the piston would leave 1/4 the plunger travel in both directions, which would likely cover both 6 and 2 degrees without using tools to move the pistons. Adding D's to my Icon is the last piece I need to complete my setup, so I'd love to hear how this works out, in practice. (I've got a couple sets here, just need piston mounting brackets.)
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  6. #6
    Senior Member elarson's Avatar
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    I took a picture of the piston assembly the last time we changed our cable. I agree with everything everyone has said about it not being a big deal to adjust the piston. Just as a note, you may miss having a few holes engaging with the piston while at 6 degree of camber, but if you play with the location of the adapter you can usually make it so it engages without any modification.
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    Partner of an incredible stroke survivor. Limitations: hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). Equipment: TiLite ZRA 2 and 2GX, Spinergy ZX-1, RioMobility Firefly. Knowledge: relative newbie for high-level equipment (2012), but willing to try to help others who are new with similar limitations (definitely not a guru, but inquisitive).

  7. #7
    Thanks for all the info. I really dont use brakes when I switch to six degrees, it is not that often and it is only to play basketball with my daughter. If I find a setup that allows me to switch between 2 and 4 it would be convenient but if I have to frob the piston like Dale said I already have my tools out anyway so wont be a big deal. Will let you know how easy it is to switch between cambers when I get it all installed.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by t8burst View Post
    Thanks for all the info. I really dont use brakes when I switch to six degrees, it is not that often and it is only to play basketball with my daughter. If I find a setup that allows me to switch between 2 and 4 it would be convenient but if I have to frob the piston like Dale said I already have my tools out anyway so wont be a big deal. Will let you know how easy it is to switch between cambers when I get it all installed.
    Anyone have any pictures of installed D-Locks on an Icon?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by t8burst View Post
    Anyone have any pictures of installed D-Locks on an Icon?
    http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...%28pictures%29

  10. #10
    Thanks. I put the lever on the front assembly instead of the backpost. Given most of my spine is a held in place with a bunch or rods reaching behind me is not easy.

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