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Thread: special car battery required for coverted vans?

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by leschinsky View Post
    Dodge caravan sport 2000

    you recommend agm?

    car is starting but door and ramp sometimes not.


    wish I had remote start ancient!

    bald, just one battery.

    I doubt it the battery, but would need to do some testing to make sure.

    i wouldn't bother with a agm either. A quality battery is all i'd put in.

    Is it a VMI or Braun conversion. If its Braun do you have to hold the button on the remote or only hit it momentarily?

    As i recall around 2000 is when they switched to the momentary feature.

    Jim
    Jim, MA, MMET
    Bridgewater, MA

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by baldfatdad View Post
    If the car starts fine and then the door/ramp don't work its not the battery.
    I have a friend that has that problem and they have chased the fix for over a year. Spent almost a $1000 and it still doesn't work right. If someone can open the door manually the ramp will deploy and the van will squat. Same with closing it. Ramp will go up and van rise, but door has to be closed manually. Sound familiar? The latest "guess" is a $600 dollar part+ labor.
    We are going to try red neck fix next week.
    I don't know if hers is VMI, but its a Dodge.

    That would be correct 90% of the time, but there were a few years where the kneel would start and if the computer saw below 11v it would wig out.

    The same van would start fine and the door ramp worked perfectly with the knee turned off.

    Jim

    Jim
    Jim, MA, MMET
    Bridgewater, MA

  3. #13
    Senior Member TomRL's Avatar
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    Any chance of it being the batteries in the remote?
    Tom

    "Blessed are the pessimists, for they hath made backups." Exasperated 20:12

  4. #14
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Those prices quoted for batteries seem to be the "they saw you coming" pricing. I think I paid something like $80 for the last battery I bought a couple years ago from Advanced Auto, similar size to what would be found in a minivan.

    That said, the cheapest quality brand battery you can get is the ticket. You don't want something with a 'premium' amount of cranking amps, just regular-style. Reason being is to get that high amperage out of a given battery case size, they cram in more plates into it, making them thinner, and taking up more of the case as well. In shorter time, the battery will precipitate sulfates to the bottom of the case shorting out the plates, and then you need to replace it as it will not hold a charge. There is a reason that something like a 6TL (monster sized military truck battery) has only something like 600 cranking amps, but lasts 10 years.

    A remote start might be in order if the electronics are wigging out due to voltage drop as mentioned in the thread. Might be cheaper than trying to trace out where the high-resistance connections might be causing this effect, and it'll be easier on the battery as well when using the adaptive stuff.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    Those prices quoted for batteries seem to be the "they saw you coming" pricing. I think I paid something like $80 for the last battery I bought a couple years ago from Advanced Auto, similar size to what would be found in a minivan.

    That said, the cheapest quality brand battery you can get is the ticket. You don't want something with a 'premium' amount of cranking amps, just regular-style. Reason being is to get that high amperage out of a given battery case size, they cram in more plates into it, making them thinner, and taking up more of the case as well. In shorter time, the battery will precipitate sulfates to the bottom of the case shorting out the plates, and then you need to replace it as it will not hold a charge. There is a reason that something like a 6TL (monster sized military truck battery) has only something like 600 cranking amps, but lasts 10 years.

    A remote start might be in order if the electronics are wigging out due to voltage drop as mentioned in the thread. Might be cheaper than trying to trace out where the high-resistance connections might be causing this effect, and it'll be easier on the battery as well when using the adaptive stuff.
    They are bay area prices, gotta pay the rent.

    I did get a real cheap one before that was so bad I had to return it within a month or so. So I'm leery. Not that I'm going to get the agm one, think I'll skip that. think I'll price the emote starter.


    AI, I have the vmi one touch so I don't have to hold the button or switch down the entire time.

    Tom, no it happens with the inside switches too.
    Embrace uncertainty. Hard problems rarely have easy solutions. Jonah Lehrer

  6. #16
    Don't know anything about mini vans.
    We have always used full-size vans with only 1 battery. Usually just good quality battery, if not from dealership where got base van then usually go buy a Sears battery.
    We trend to be a worrier over battery, so replace about every 3 to 5 years. Van shows signs slow crank then replace battery.
    About voltage someone posted about I know they say our Sprinter van will not crank if voltage is below 11, so that makes sense that conversion is protecting itself with all sensitive electrical equipment.


    But, most places that sell batteries will usually test your battery for free.


    Otherwise, I would have van checked for a short. We had a 96 Dodge that required a new grounding strap on lift, interment stopping of lift during use. Shop said they seen it happen before, van/lift were about 4 years old at time.
    Also had one lift that wire to battery somehow got loose while on a trip and melted onto the hot exhaust pipe. Lift would not deploy. Brother got under van, found it and cut wire adding small section to bypass melted section and used pull-ties to keep off exhaust. That made do til back home and lift shop addressed it.
    "Good Luck!"

  7. #17
    The solution for my van, a 2005 entervan caravan, was fairly cheap and easy. It turns out that a common problem with these vans is the sliding door wire harness. The wire harness itself only cost about $75 and you can order it online anywhere.
    Search online for How to Fix Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town and Country Sliding Door Wires.

  8. #18
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leschinsky View Post
    . think I'll price the emote starter..
    You could pay 300+, or do something like this for $44 and a 6 pack to the fast and furious kid down the block...

    http://www.amazon.com/Avital-4103LX-...7635957&sr=8-1

    Exact same box as a fancy Viper branded unit, but with smaller remotes (same mfr). If you have grey keys you'll need a security bypass unit also.

    Wired in using this guide (for just the remote start, just do the ignition switch wiring and one wire under the hood to the coil pack and don't bother with the keyless entry stuff):

    http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/index....&ModelID=13356

    I put one of these in my winter beater and it works like a champ, at a whole bunch cheaper than retail

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    Those prices quoted for batteries seem to be the "they saw you coming" pricing. I think I paid something like $80 for the last battery I bought a couple years ago from Advanced Auto, similar size to what would be found in a minivan.

    That said, the cheapest quality brand battery you can get is the ticket. You don't want something with a 'premium' amount of cranking amps, just regular-style. Reason being is to get that high amperage out of a given battery case size, they cram in more plates into it, making them thinner, and taking up more of the case as well. In shorter time, the battery will precipitate sulfates to the bottom of the case shorting out the plates, and then you need to replace it as it will not hold a charge. There is a reason that something like a 6TL (monster sized military truck battery) has only something like 600 cranking amps, but lasts 10 years.

    A remote start might be in order if the electronics are wigging out due to voltage drop as mentioned in the thread. Might be cheaper than trying to trace out where the high-resistance connections might be causing this effect, and it'll be easier on the battery as well when using the adaptive stuff.
    I like Advanced Auto batteries all in all they seem to hold up well.

    Jim
    Jim, MA, MMET
    Bridgewater, MA

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by leschinsky View Post

    AI, I have the vmi one touch so I don't have to hold the button or switch down the entire time.

    Tom, no it happens with the inside switches too.

    i doubt ver much its the battery. probably going to be a bad wire somewhere, something in the door opener motor and or the controller.

    when was the last time the VMI door opener was serviced?

    they should be inspected and serviced every few years when there as old as yours is.

    there are a lot of parts moving around that get worn out.

    simple easy (inexpensive parts) save you from burning up the expensive parts.

    Jim
    Jim, MA, MMET
    Bridgewater, MA

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