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Thread: Need advice on ordering Tilite TR3 and COG

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by TogsT8 View Post
    . . . Also, would your drawing program be able to reveal the wheel base and exact width of the chair? . . .
    My drawings will yield only approximate wheelbase and width because I have to guess at some measurements TiLite doesn't publish. If you tell me what your current wheelbase is, my drawings will be more accurate. TiLite has a chair-width calculator on their website.

    To determine my seat width, I sat on the floor with one thigh/hip against a door, placed a large book (e.g., coffee-table book) vertically against my other hip, and had another person measure my hip width (inside face of book to door). Because I have full sensation and often stand (don't desire a tight fitting chair), I rounded up to the next full inch, and use sideguards to keep wheels from rubbing my clothes.

    I will start drawing today, and expect to be done early next week, hopefuly sooner. Do you want a movie or just pics (i.e., screen shots)?
    Last edited by chasmengr; 02-20-2015 at 05:10 PM.
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
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  2. #12
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brianm View Post
    I concur with the other that your chair looks to be wider than you need. You mention wanting the wheels in closer, what is your reasoning? I am wondering if a narrower chair will resolve what you are looking for.

    If more dump in your chair would not bother you, getting the rear down more would give you better reach to your wheels.

    What are you trying to accomplish with the added inch? You mention you feel your current chair is to short and loosened the straps. Adding the extra inch will not give you more seating area. If you want more seating area then order a 19" seat depth.

    You have long legs, but have you considered going to an 80 degree frame? 70 degrees is stretched out there still.

    I am somewhere around 6-1 to 6-2 and here is my current setup: http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...=1#post1591233

    Here is my previous chair that had an 80 degree front: http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...=1#post1358234

    Here is an old side-by-side picture of me in my 60 degree Quickie ad my 80 degree TR:
    Attachment 56545
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    BrianM: Thank you for posting your photos. I have already studied your chair and other pics previously on another thread. It's very helpful as we are of similar size. The Quickie you have is very much like my previous chair (2HP) that I modeled my current one on. That's why I spec'd it to have 60 degree front! I have yet to see anyone else with that degree. My new specs are to cut it down to 70 degrees (which makes the chair 3" shorter). I'm not sure I will like having the angle any sharper... It would be better for turning radius.. but I'm not sure how comfortable it would be hour after hour. That's the whole difficulty with this specification task... every decision is in stone. It would be nice to trial different settings over a few days. In answer to your question about the added inch. My current chair was ordered too short... so I'm adding an inch of frame length to compensate. Also, I will be getting a jayback j3 which has extended hardware to give about 2 inches of depth flexibility. The loosened flexible Tilite back rest has been bad for my posture. Hopefully this new back will fix that.

    About the wheel base. I have no desire to have the wheels closer... but that will be inevitable when I make the front angle sharper. I was curious what the effect would be on the COG. I believe it may require me to shorten it. Currently it's about 4". That issue is not so important now... I've decided to just get the square back so that I have complete flexibility there. (I wanted the rounded back for aesthetics and less opportunity for frame fracture.)

    Chas:
    Thanks for your tip about the width. 3 members have now said I should spec a narrower chair by 1 or 2 inches which certainly gives me pause about my current specs. I did try a 17" width chair recently, and felt very cramped... but my cushion was crammed into it (as it's 18.25" wide) and the length of the chair was too short. Perhaps that was the problem.

    You guys are raising a lot of great issues. Very glad I reached out to you all.

  3. #13
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Thank you all for responding... I responded in detail to these last posts about 3 hrs ago... but the post disappeared. (I tried the GO ADVANCED button and that's what I got) Here's another shot at it... I hope it doesn't arrive later and duplicate everything I'm saying twice,

    Brian M:

    Thanks for posting those photos. I am familiar with your chair after studying it on another thread. It's very helpful as we are of similar height. I also had a Quickie 2HP. In fact that's why I ordered my first TR3 with 60 degree front... that's what the Quickie was. Everyone in this community seems to prefer 80 to 90 degree front ends.

    I don't know about going all the way to 80 degrees. It would certainly be better for turning radius but I don't know if my legs would feel cramped after a few hours. That's the difficult thing about this task.. everything is in stone so, and it's almost impossible to try out options that may indeed be better.

    Wheel spacing: I don't want them closer, but I will lose 3" of length if I keep my current spec and go from 60 degrees front end to 70 degrees. I was initially concerned that it would have an impact on COG.. but I've decided to go with the sq. end so that won't be an issue.

    About dump: I don't like too much dump..but, I am going from 24" to 25" wheels so that should improve my access to the wheels. I spent a great deal of time deciding on the dump issue and the front and back STF measurement. My solution was to go on the high side for each measurement and to get tension adjustable strap seat upholstery so I can lower it if necessary.


    Chas:

    Thanks for your tip about the width. 3 members have now said I should spec a narrower chair by 1 or 2 inches which certainly gives me pause about my current specs. I did try a 17" width chair recently, and felt very cramped... but my cushion was crammed into it (as it's 18.25" wide) and the length of the chair was too short. Perhaps that was the problem. I may give it another try.

    Ala:

    Seat taper: I did not spec any seat taper.

    9 inch footrest specs: My feet, when together are just under 9" wide. I was thinking that having them confined would keep them more stable. Right now my feet slide all over the place. Of course, much of that is due to the fact that the footrest is about 1/2" too low. Do you still think I need an extra inch? This footrest width measurement is definitely one of those things I'd like to hear from those with experience about.

  4. #14
    I don't know what your disability is nor what your comfort level will be with using an 80 degree front, but if you were comfortable with it I can't imagine you not liking it from a use standpoint. Once I finally got into a more compact chair I couldn't believe how much easier life was. I am now using an 85 degree front; I had to raise my front seat height to 20" for ground clearance and I still don't have a lot. Maybe you can experiment by bringing your feet back as far as you can.

    You may want to consider a TRA so you can experiment with the rear seat height. Twenty-five inch wheels will certainly help, they did me, but you are still sitting pretty high in the back. That said, only you know your comfort. Adjusting seat height via the seat straps is not a good plan.

    When I was talking wheel spacing, I was talking the distance of the tire from the frame, i.e 0.75" or 1", etc.

    Chair width, you want to be snug in your chair and as recommended, use side guards.

    I would echo the recommendation of getting 2 degrees of camber, it will make maneuvering easier.

    Footrest width: I am currently using 11" and plan to select 10.5" next time.
    Last edited by Brianm; 02-20-2015 at 10:23 PM.
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  5. #15
    I'm 6'1" and 190 lbs. I have an 11" footrest and with my everyday shoes on, I have between a 1/2" & 3/4" on each side.

    Here's the link to my TR3 http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...t-my-TR3-today!!!
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TogsT8 View Post
    Ala:
    Seat taper: I did not spec any seat taper.

    9 inch footrest specs: My feet, when together are just under 9" wide. I was thinking that having them confined would keep them more stable. Right now my feet slide all over the place. Of course, much of that is due to the fact that the footrest is about 1/2" too low. Do you still think I need an extra inch? This footrest width measurement is definitely one of those things I'd like to hear from those with experience about.
    Sorry, I saw all the taper references and thought, for some reason, you meant seat-frame taper. I do think you should be careful about getting a footrest that is too narrow. As you probably know, TiLite measures this between the frame a couple of inches above the actual plane of the footrest, so the distance at that plane will be a little less. From my experience that "less" equals somewhere between .5" to 1". So a 9" footrest may actually be 8.5" or less at it's narrowest point. And of course that can be the widest part for some shoes (the sole). I ordered my TR3 with a V-front and a 10.5" footrest (actually measures about 9.5" at the top of the tubing curve), and I have a medium width, size 8 1/2 shoe. I do understand the need to keep your feet from sliding back and forth; I hated that on my first chair. Just be careful if you plan on using wider shoes or boots. My problem is I go with just socks often and also use shoes at times.
    Last edited by ala; 02-21-2015 at 02:05 PM.

  7. #17
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    I should also note that the difference between the footrest width measurement and the width at the narrowest point, at the foot plane, can be more or less depending on your seat width and front frame style. With a V-front, the greater the difference between seat width to footrest width--the steeper the "V" angle--the more you lose footrest width in that couple of inches below the actual point of measure. In other words, with an 18" seat width and a 9" footrest, you'll probably end up with slightly less than 8" at the bottom, most narrow point (excluding the curve which can make things even narrower). With the Tapered Style front end there shouldn't be much difference because after the inward frame taper the front end tubes are essentially straight down and parallel. The diagrams below are from TiLite's order form.

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  8. #18
    Senior Member ~Lin's Avatar
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    Why frame length added and not seat depth added? I think you need to increase your seat depth, not frame length. (I believe someone else already mentioned that, but wanted to bring it up again)
    Board Member of Assistance Dog Advocacy Project working in Education. Feel free to ask me any service dog questions!

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  9. #19
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Ala:
    I emailed Tilite with the footrest width concern:
    I asked them what measurement I would have to spec 2.5" above the footplate in order to get a 9" wide actual footplate. I suggested 10.5"
    She replied:

    "If you are trying to get the footplate to 9" that would be about right. You can also make a request that the footplate be 9".


    So, I will definitely make a request for a 9" wide footplate... and let Tilite figure out the measurement at the bottom of the frame (before the footrest bars).

    Lin:
    The reason for the frame extension is that the cushion will only measure 18.25" in depth. So I thought rather than having the seat material exceed the cushion,
    it would just end about where the cushion does... and still be able to get the length I need.

    stumpybushman: Thanks for sharing your chair.

    Brianm:
    I am definitely on track to reduce the width to 17" from 18". My hips are just 14.75" so, I really do think I can shave off a cell on my roho cushion.. right now I have
    9 Cells across (16.5") and if i make it 8 cells, that will be 14.75" .. which will pretty much match my hips exactly. I figure, if I add an inch 2 extra space
    ...17" will give me more than enough room for comfort. I suppose I could consider going to 16".. but that might be pushing it. I am going to ask my supplier to let me demo a 17".. and if possible a 16".
    I am considering following your advice about increasing the dump and lowering the rear seat height... at least 1/2". The sling seating does tend to bend after a while... but I suppose it's not the right way to adjust height.

    All:
    Also...after many comments about the footrest height... I went out today and had the bolt fixed... and finally was able to raise it up 1/2". Much more comfortable. And healthier.
    Thanks everyone for your feedback.. it's invaluable.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TogsT8 View Post
    Ala:
    I am considering following your advice about increasing the dump and lowering the rear seat height... at least 1/2". The sling seating does tend to bend after a while... but I suppose it's not the right way to adjust height.
    .
    I prefer to have a little slack in my sling. I loosened my seat sling to create a nice little bucket shape. Others do this too. Like I've said before, a person's rear end isn't flat, after all. It makes me feel more like I'm sitting in my cushion rather than on it. If you like this also, do it. It's not the "wrong" way to lower your seating position, if it feels right to you. Also, many of us do not like a lot of dump. I don't like more than a 2" difference between front and rear chair heights. Make sure this is what feels good for you, not just what others are saying.

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