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Thread: Need advice on ordering Tilite TR3 and COG

  1. #1
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Need advice on ordering Tilite TR3 and COG

    I am ordering my 2nd Tilite TR3 in 2 years. Made a few measuring mistakes on the first one and am hoping to avoid as many as possible this time.
    I've listed specs of both my current chair and proposed chair below.
    Question RE: Center of Gravity:

    The current chair has 60 degree front and the proposed one has 70 degrees. My calculations are that the new chair will be about 3" shorter. Additionally, I'm adding 1 inch of frame depth. (I believe I ordered my current chair too short and have compensated by loosening the back upholstery to allow my back to go about 2 inches beyond the backrest post. Right now I have 4.25" of COG. I'm wondering if there is a way to calculate if there will be a change in the COG measurement. I don't know if it matters but I'm 6'2" 150lbs. Appreciate any input you may have.

    Togs

    |
    | Here's my current chair
    | TRFS1 TiLite TR SERIES 3
    |
    |
    | TRSW1 18" SEAT WIDTH
    | TRFSW1 NO SEAT TAPER - V-FRONT
    | TRSD1 18" SEAT DEPTH
    | TRFSH1 19.5" FRONT SEAT HEIGHT
    | TRRSH1 18.5" REAR SEAT HEIGHT
    | TRFA1 60 DEGREE FRONT ANGLE
    | 17.5" SEAT TO FOOTREST
    | TRFTR2 TI OPEN LOOP FOOTREST
    | TRFE2 14" V-FRONT TAPER
    | TRSB1 FOLDING ALUMINUM BACKREST NCO
    | TRSB4 TITANIUM BACKREST RELEASE BAR
    | TRSB6 INTEGRATED PUSH HANDLES NCO
    | ALUM 13.5"-16.5" FOLDING ADJ-HT BACK
    | 16" SEAT BACK HEIGHT
    | TRSB12 4" DEEP BACKREST RIGIDIZER BAR
    | TRSBA2 FOLDING BACK ANGLE
    | 92 DEGREE SEAT BACK ANGLE
    | TRCOG1 4.25" CENTER OF GRAVITY
    | TRRWS1 .75" REAR WHEEL SPACING
    | TRCBR3 TITANIUM 4 DEGREE CAMBER
    | 6" FRONT WHEELS
    | TRFW9 PLASTIC W/POLY CASTERS NCO
    | TRFK1 TiLite STANDARD FORK STD
    |
    | 24" LX Spinergy Back Wheels
    | TRAXL1 STAINLESS QUICK RELEASE AXLES STD
    | TRRTR1 TREADED TIRES STD
    | TRRIM1 SILVER ANO HANDRIMS STD
    | TRRIM7 SHORT HANDRIM TABS STD
    | TRWLK7 COMPACT COMPOSITE PUSH TO LOCK STD
    | TRUPC1 BLACK UPHOLSTERY STD
    |
    | TRSUP1 TENSION ADJ BOLT ON SEAT UPH STD
    |
    | TRCLF2 VELCRO ADJ CALF STRAP LG K0038


    Here's the new specs

    Tilite TR Series 3
    18" Seat Width (no taper)
    18" Seat Depth
    19 Custom Frame Depth
    70 Degree Front Angle
    19.5" Front Seat Height
    17" Rear Seat Height
    17.5" Seat To Footrest Height
    V Front
    Titanium Open Loop Footrest 9? Wide
    4? Deep Ridgedizer bar
    Folding Seat back (aluminum)13.5? -16.5?(integrated push handles)
    Set @ 13.5"
    92 Degree Back
    3.5" Center Of Gravity
    .75" Rear Wheel Spacing
    Titanium Camber Tube TRCBR3
    0 Degree Camber
    Uni-Lock Set At: Push TRWLK3
    6?x1.5? LiteSpeed Billet Aluminum Wheel w/Soft Roll Tire
    Standard Fork w/ Titanium Stems
    Rear Wheels: 25" Golz Twin-star Exchange Wheels w/
    Schwalbe Speedrun Tires
    Short Tab Titanium Handrims
    Axles: Stainless Quick Release TRAXL1
    Back Upholstery TRBUP2 ❑ Velcro Adjustable
    Will replace with Jayback J3 with extended hardware
    Seat Upholstery:Tension adjustable by straps
    Roho Cushion High Profile 18.25? L x 16.5? W

  2. #2
    The TR3's CoG is super adjustable. Why do you need to know before hand; do you desire curved back tubing joints? If not you can just order it with less than 3.5" (forcing squared tubing jhoints) and adjust it after you get it.

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    If you'd like to compare Overall Frame Lengths of the two chairs, I can draw them for you. Let me know.

    (I drew mine before ordering.

    Here's a video of it.)

    No, it's not easy to calculate CoG.
    Last edited by chasmengr; 02-19-2015 at 09:21 PM.
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  3. #3
    I'd be curious to see you sitting in your current chair.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  4. #4
    yea. a picture of you in current chair would help.
    walking is OVER-RATED!!!

    Broken in August 14th, 2003. T9-L1 complete.

  5. #5
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Assorted photos

    Thanks for your response. Here's a few pictures... not much of a photographer. BTW Chasmengr: That's a very generous offer to draw the chair. And enjoyed the video. I was able to determine the frame length by subtracting the 10 degrees front angle (-3")and adding the extra inch of frame length. approx. 2" less overall.
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  6. #6
    Hey Togs, just my opinion that chair looks to wide for you and your foot plates look way to low. Do you not experience problems with circulation do your feet swell or turn purple? I would also think you could benefit from A tapered front end as opposed to the V.

  7. #7
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Yes, the footplates are too low. My ankles don't swell, but I use compression socks. I should be able to adjust it upward 1/2" but unfortunately, the factory overtightened the screw and I destroyed the bolt trying to adjust it.
    I will hopefully be able to adjust the new one better and have spec'd it 1/2" less SEAT TO FOOTREST. Why would a tapered front end be better than a "V"? NOTE: I have reduced the footplate width to 9" from 12".

  8. #8
    Junior Member TogsT8's Avatar
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    Chasmengr:
    Yes. I think your strategy makes sense. No need to fool around. I'll order the square rear end. I was originally thinking that the round rear frame would be more stable and less apt to break... but the trade off is not worth it. Also, would your drawing program be able to reveal the wheel base and exact width of the chair? I'd like a drawing if it's not too much trouble. I am trying to figure out the best way to get wheels closer to the frame. My current chair has a .75" wheel space but it seems like it could easily be narrowed by .5". I'd like to spec a .5" and then try 0 degree camber... but they won't let you order it that way. So I'll try .75" and 0 camber and see if that make it better.
    Last edited by TogsT8; 02-20-2015 at 01:25 PM. Reason: address to poster specifically

  9. #9
    I concur with the other that your chair looks to be wider than you need. You mention wanting the wheels in closer, what is your reasoning? I am wondering if a narrower chair will resolve what you are looking for.

    If more dump in your chair would not bother you, getting the rear down more would give you better reach to your wheels.

    What are you trying to accomplish with the added inch? You mention you feel your current chair is to short and loosened the straps. Adding the extra inch will not give you more seating area. If you want more seating area then order a 19" seat depth.

    You have long legs, but have you considered going to an 80 degree frame? 70 degrees is stretched out there still.

    I am somewhere around 6-1 to 6-2 and here is my current setup: http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...=1#post1591233

    Here is my previous chair that had an 80 degree front: http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/showthr...=1#post1358234

    Here is an old side-by-side picture of me in my 60 degree Quickie ad my 80 degree TR:
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    Last edited by Brianm; 02-20-2015 at 02:41 PM.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    I also agree that your current chair at 18" is too wide for you. I am 5'10" and almost 200lbs, and I still have no problem fitting in my 16" ZR. My daily chair is a 17" TR3. I would suggest that you order a 16" or no more than 17" wide chair with 2 degree camber. That should provide better handling and stability but still give you a narrow enough chair. I find that little bit of camber helps. I have a chair with 0 degree and it's not good around fast turns or uneven ground. And forget about leaning over the side to pick things up; I can tip it sideways.

    A 9 inch wide footrest is pretty narrow for a man's foot. Unless you have very small, narrow feet (with shoes), I would go with no less than 10". Try measuring the width of your feet with your favorite shoes and add an inch, to see your minimum. Seat frame taper is okay for some. Women like it because it forces their knees together and makes them look slimmer and neater. But too much taper is a "junk" squasher on most men. My ZR has 2.5" front seat taper and it's kind of tough on the old "family jewels." I have to make a substantial crotch adjustment every time I transfer into it. It's not good doing this in public, especially not in church.

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