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Thread: Battery for van

  1. #11
    If you start the van, you need to let it run at least 20 minutes to put the electricity in the battery you used to start it.
    Have someone bump the door. I have a friend with a van like yours and sometimes the door doesn't open or close all the way and it stops the system from operating.
    Can some one go disconnect the battery for you, until monday?

  2. #12
    The regulator which is in the alternator is malfunctioning burning out the battery:
    http://www.carparts.com/classroom/charging.htm
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #13
    Senior Member alan's Avatar
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    I have a trickle charger attached to my Rollx van to ensure that the battery stays charged. I don't use the van very much, so it often would have a dead battery before I got a trickle charger.
    Alan

    Proofread carefully to see if you any words out.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by willingtocope View Post
    I'm not sure about the 18.5 volts. Don't most van modifications include a bigger battery to handle the ramp and so on?
    The batteries should have more capacity measured in amperage, not voltage. Think AAA flashlight battery is 1.5 volts, but so is AA a 1.5 and for that matter so is a C cell. They all produce 1.5 volts, but the C cell is the one with the most amperage. It is the same with car/van batteries. When they start talking about CCA, cold cranking amps, get a *big* number. They cost more.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  5. #15
    I was finally able to get to the van. I opened the door manually and moved the ramp around a little. As I did, it deployed without any power. It nearly came down on me. That darn snow. I had a hard time getting away fast enough. Anyway, so I went inside and started it up. I tried the buttons on the inside, and the ramp still wouldn’t work. I revved the engine a few times and tried again. It finally worked, but was very slow. So I left it running for a bit and tried again. It sounds normal, for now. I was going to take it for a drive, but the parking lot here is full of snow. I didn’t want to get stuck. I will wait and see how it is tomorrow. I am hoping to get it out to charge it up. I ran it today for 45 minutes. I hope that is enough. That’s what the mechanic said to do. I will do the same tomorrow. I don’t know what the 18.5 voltage means. Is that good or bad? I’m planning on calling the dealership on Monday. I am wondering if the battery they gave me isn’t strong enough.

  6. #16
    Hopefully that mechanic misread the meter, or his meter malfunctioned. I found out one of mine was bad, pissed me off. 45 minutes should be good if your revs were high enough. The cca should be marked on the top of your battery. Post it here for comparison. There is another descriptor besides cca, indicating amperage depth but I'm not remembering it.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Sugarcube View Post
    I was finally able to get to the van. I opened the door manually and moved the ramp around a little. As I did, it deployed without any power. It nearly came down on me. That darn snow. I had a hard time getting away fast enough. Anyway, so I went inside and started it up. I tried the buttons on the inside, and the ramp still wouldn’t work. I revved the engine a few times and tried again. It finally worked, but was very slow. So I left it running for a bit and tried again. It sounds normal, for now. I was going to take it for a drive, but the parking lot here is full of snow. I didn’t want to get stuck. I will wait and see how it is tomorrow. I am hoping to get it out to charge it up. I ran it today for 45 minutes. I hope that is enough. That’s what the mechanic said to do. I will do the same tomorrow. I don’t know what the 18.5 voltage means. Is that good or bad? I’m planning on calling the dealership on Monday. I am wondering if the battery they gave me isn’t strong enough.

    Don't drive or start the van any more until someone confirms the voltage.

    18.5 is way to high.

    It will fry your battery and can fry electronic parts in the van including but not limited to the ramp/door controller.

    What make and year van is it?

    Don't run the van.

    Jim
    Jim, MA, MMET
    Bridgewater, MA

  8. #18
    Senior Member Joe-MN's Avatar
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    I would be worthwhile to buy one of these. Cheap and they can tell you a lot. I do not leave mine in the cigarette lighter socket when not running vehicle.

    With car running, should read 14.x volts. Will vary a little especially if you have fan/heater/A-C running.

    Should read 12.x volts when car is off. May drop .1 or so over a period of time.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...er++cigarette+
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

  9. #19
    Hi Sugarcube,

    Sorry for your predicament. I also live in CT and am current experiencing battery issues with my adapted ride too. Having a pending snowstorm bearing down on us makes it that much worse. Unfortunately this may not be the best place to get automotive advice but I guess it's better than nothing. The problem is that everyone here is just guessing. What's worse is that we're guessing with limited knowledge about the patient because no one has actually seen it.

    With that said I'll offer my two cents since I do have a little automotive experience. Battery issues with vehicles that are driven sporadically are quite common but I'm guessing that your's most probably is being caused by something electrical drawing current from the battery when the vehicle is off. This is relatively easy to check and can be done quickly and for free at most auto parts stores assuming you can find a qualified attendant. Having an alternator over charging(18.5v) the electrical system is much rarer.

    Can't say for sure but this may have been the cause of the original battery failure which may have been misdiagnosed by the garage that replaced the battery in the first place. The fact that yours is an adapted vehicle with aftermarket electrical equipment leads even more credence to my suspicion. If you would to discuss it further you can email me at cnriordan@yahoo.com

  10. #20
    Could the stuck ramp be causing the electrical draw? The switch may still be pulling current. Did you make sure that the switch is off, and maybe actually disconnect the wires to that until you can get it repaired? Assume that someone AB can help you manually retract the lift??

    (KLD)

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