Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 40 of 40

Thread: Smart Drive mx1+ questions/issues

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    The clamp needs to be aligned so that the part the drive unit attaches to is perpendicular to the ground. One advantage of the mounting bracket is that the battery unit rests on top of the clamp where the drive unit attaches which may provide a bit of additional security. I should note that their may not be enough room to use the bracket on chairs that have rear seat-to-floor heights <16".

    There are a few configurations where the battery unit won't fit at all. Such was the case with this TR3. There wasn't enough room between the seat upholstery and the camber tube. The battery pack can be mounted using the upholstery on a ZR2 or ZRA with identical specs. If anyone is trying to decide whether they want a TR3 or ZR2 and want the ability to use a SmartDrive, the ZR2 will be the best choice if they have any amount of dump and have a STF<16".
    Odd... my TR3 has a rear STF height of 15" & my SmartDrive battery fits just fine.

    Here's my CAD: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jo1q086nt4...3-cad.jpg?dl=0

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by -scott- View Post
    Odd... my TR3 has a rear STF height of 15" & my SmartDrive battery fits just fine.

    Here's my CAD: https://www.dropbox.com/s/jo1q086nt4...3-cad.jpg?dl=0
    I don't understand his post either. It looks like there is plenty of room in the example posted if the battery is installed according to manufacturers instructions. Old chairs such as ZR series 1 do not have enough space between the ridgidizer bar and the fabric, so a workaround needs to be done in those instances. But it can be done.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #33
    I probably could have worded that better scott, the ZR or ZRA would be a sure bet. There is a possibility it may not work with some TR3 configurations.

    The rear STF height on that TR3 was 14.5" and the COG was spec'd at 4 (and may be even more now). It also has the curved rear frame. There was no way the battery unit would clear the camber tube and fit all the way back without seriously jacking up the cushion.

    You have a 1/2" higher rear STF and the square frame which probably gives you more space.

    nonoise,

    It looks like there is plenty of room in the example posted if the battery is installed according to manufacturers instructions.
    What are you implying here?


  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    nonoise,
    What are you implying here?
    I said: "It looks like there is plenty of room in the example posted if the battery is installed according to manufacturers instructions."

    That means I thought those pictures looked to me like there was enough room to slip the battery between the rigidizer bar and the cushion the way Max-Mobility had designed the clip on the battery. However you had just posted that you prefer attaching an aluminum bar to the rigidizer for mounting the battery. And on that chair it appears to be quite far back, so I wondered if that was the issue. I was not implying anything, I probably should have been more wordy, but that gets me in trouble too.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    I probably could have worded that better scott, the ZR or ZRA would be a sure bet. There is a possibility it may not work with some TR3 configurations.

    The rear STF height on that TR3 was 14.5" and the COG was spec'd at 4 (and may be even more now). It also has the curved rear frame. There was no way the battery unit would clear the camber tube and fit all the way back without seriously jacking up the cushion.

    You have a 1/2" higher rear STF and the square frame which probably gives you more space.
    Makes sense... I think.

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southeast, USA
    Posts
    551
    I have another question. I've come to find out that in mode 1, the faster you go the harder you have to grab the handrims to stop because it's less sensitive to resistance. So most of the time when I'm moving at slow speeds it doesn't take much force to stop, however every once in a while I have to grab the handrims really hard to stop it at slow speeds (as if I was going much faster). Anyone else experience this?

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad09 View Post
    I have another question. I've come to find out that in mode 1, the faster you go the harder you have to grab the handrims to stop because it's less sensitive to resistance. So most of the time when I'm moving at slow speeds it doesn't take much force to stop, however every once in a while I have to grab the handrims really hard to stop it at slow speeds (as if I was going much faster). Anyone else experience this?
    In all likelihood, one of the switches was bumped and you didn't realize it. You were actually in outdoor mode. The key to using the MX1+ safely is to know exactly where your switches are and make it a reflex to hit them as soon as you realize its not stopping.

    There is an outside chance you could have a questionable connection, but it is easy to bump the switch and not hear the tone.


  8. #38
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southeast, USA
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    In all likelihood, one of the switches was bumped and you didn't realize it. You were actually in outdoor mode. The key to using the MX1+ safely is to know exactly where your switches are and make it a reflex to hit them as soon as you realize its not stopping.

    There is an outside chance you could have a questionable connection, but it is easy to bump the switch and not hear the tone.
    Thanks for the response, but I know for sure I didn't hit the switch. When it happens I'm able to stop it by grabbing the handrims, which I wouldn't be able to do in outdoor mode, it just takes a lot more force than usual.

  9. #39
    Could be a firmware glitch. I'd suggest contacting Max Mobility.


  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad09 View Post
    Thanks for the response, but I know for sure I didn't hit the switch. When it happens I'm able to stop it by grabbing the handrims, which I wouldn't be able to do in outdoor mode, it just takes a lot more force than usual.
    Maybe you have what Mark called the older defective switch. He identified it as glossy, that's the part you push on, where it says SmartDrive. The new switch that he gave me that he said is updated looks the same but has a flat black surface where the SmartDrive name is.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

Similar Threads

  1. Smart Drive Upgrade to MX1
    By Nirvana in forum Equipment
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 04-17-2015, 12:27 PM
  2. Replies: 7
    Last Post: 06-06-2014, 06:17 PM
  3. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-22-2013, 11:18 PM
  4. Smart drive
    By Louie0611 in forum Equipment & Services
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 05-09-2013, 12:58 PM
  5. Smart Drive
    By Supernye in forum Equipment
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-26-2013, 04:41 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •