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Thread: ZX-1 Power Add-on owners thread

  1. #581

    Adjusting Anti-Tilt Width

    I finally had some time and assistance (with a functioning pair of hands) to fiddle with a barely used ZX-1 that's new to me. I've never owned or even ridden one, but I've read plenty positive reviews. We have batteries on order and the 26" to 24" wheel conversion done. The next step is the width adjustment of the anti-tilt arms. I may just remove them in the future, but for now I want to keep them functional. This thread has been invaluable in educating me about the ZX-1. And elarson's "cliff notes" on her website are a blessing.

    Onething puzzles me. I need to adjust the Anti Tilt arms to be more narrow, to fit my Tilite ZRa chair. The well-documented process is to loosen the four set-screws on the Width Bracket and slide that in or out. The operator's manual and several users have described that clearly. The problem is that the Anti-Tilt Height Brackets are held apart at a fixed distance by a solid 5/8 inch aluminum bar, with a bracket screwed on each end. It won't be difficult to drill the threaded hole deeper with the proper tap drill size, saw off the excess length, and then tap new threads into the shorter bar. But I am puzzled why no one has mentioned this. It is as if there is another obvious solution that I am somehow overlooking. This 5/8 inch bar is shown in many of the illustrations but never referenced in the text (that I have seen).
    Last edited by endo_aftermath; 09-05-2018 at 09:19 PM. Reason: text conversion errors

  2. #582
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Amazon strikes again! Ordered a 100A mini-kill switch, a 3-30V digital micro voltmeter, #8 wire, and discovered that for $15 I could get a tiny 100A inductive ammeter.............
    so of course, I bought it!

    I figured knowing how much load I have when doing max activities (steep uphill climb in grass?) will be informative in the beginning. For something that I assume draws some high current, at least 50A, I'm surprised at the small connectors at the batteries which are the garden variety 6mm push connectors. The battery leads into to the PG2 controller are 10mm, which I would expect should be at the batteries as well. Sheesh! 12V/35A VW beetle regulators had the 10mm connectors!

    Did quick test drive w/o anti-tips: much nicer! Looking forward to some serious use; wondering how far it will go on cheap batteries. Played with programming the controller. I now have 1, 3, & 5 programmed for slow inside house maneuvering, med speed and 100% speed. Very nice. I saw it posted that when re-programmed, single LEDs lit for the 5 possibilities, but mine still has the serial lighting, 12345 LEDS lit.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  3. #583
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    "This 5/8 inch bar is shown in many of the illustrations but never referenced in the text (that I have seen)."

    Good point and fair question!
    My first guess might be that it was a remedial measure taken because the anti-tip arms were too sloppy and didn't always stay on the back-canes and so isn't in the manual.
    If you're taking it half-way apart, why not try without it which is I hunch, more manageable. Given that your axle has a few inches of lateral play, I can't imagine the two rollers always coming against the back canes! I tapered a pair of split collars to mount on the axle ensuring the ZX1 clamshell would be centered with my old chair. I'll try this new configuration as-is and if I find the ZX1 is wandering, I'll see how easy it is to get the chair clamped to the axle with a narrower window.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  4. #584
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    Finally getting back to my ZX1. One battery shit the bed so I replaced it. Still wondering about the charger which states: "LI-ION battery charger" although I'm running conventional batteries.
    After confirming both batteries had the same at rest voltage (12.2/12.23), I put the charger on the port for 24 hours. The red charging light never went out/the green charged light never came on. I removed the charger.
    I checked the battery voltage with the charger re-connected @28.8V or 14.4V at each battery!....
    You won't get a green light on the Li-Ion charger until the battery pair charges up to 29.2 assuming popular lithium chemistries. Isn't that a bit much for lead acid? I think you should get the proper charger.

    Edit: Even if the lead acids can take the 29.2 max volts, consider the difference in charging profiles of the two types of chargers. Lead acids taper as the batteries charge up, while Lithium chargers go full blast and do not cut taper, but deliver the full charge until cutoff. And there is no trickle charge.
    Last edited by nonoise; 09-06-2018 at 02:52 AM.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  5. #585
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nonoise View Post
    You won't get a green light on the Li-Ion charger until the battery pair charges up to 29.2 assuming popular lithium chemistries. Isn't that a bit much for lead acid? I think you should get the proper charger.

    Edit: Even if the lead acids can take the 29.2 max volts, consider the difference in charging profiles of the two types of chargers. Lead acids taper as the batteries charge up, while Lithium chargers go full blast and do not cut taper, but deliver the full charge until cutoff. And there is no trickle charge.
    That would be 14.6V to each battery, a little high but not terrible if only left on enough to re-charge them.
    The guy I got this from said the batteries failed so he picked "these" up. "These" are conventional batteries. How do I distinguish that the machine has the LiIon upgrade? Upgrading to Li batteries is very expensive through the mfg. Not sure what they replace and do they re-flash the controller? I'd love to know that my ZX1 only needs lithium batteries and I'm good to go??
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  6. #586
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    That would be 14.6V to each battery, a little high but not terrible if only left on enough to re-charge them.
    ...How do I distinguish that the machine has the LiIon upgrade? Upgrading to Li batteries is very expensive through the mfg. Not sure what they replace and do they re-flash the controller? I'd love to know that my ZX1 only needs lithium batteries and I'm good to go??...
    Lithium batteries die if burned to low, so there is a low voltage cutoff LVC. That LVC is higher than you would expect for lead acid running brushed motors. So run these to exhaustion and immediately measure the total voltage to determine the LVC. We can think from there. BTW I am not so sure lithium is the best for brushed motors, but I need to learn more.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #587
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Good information!
    When I load tested the batteries, they outputted 60-100 A at around 10.1V for 5 seconds.
    That was a surprise! Tells me they're pretty healthy. (there is no stated CCA spec, so take 7xAH=105A load tested value)

    Batteries: UB12150k, 12C/15Ah
    standby use: 13.6-13.8v/2.25A initial current
    cyclic use: 14.6-14.8v/4.5A initial current

    I will check voltage and current when I have run them down, and report.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  8. #588
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    Good information!
    When I load tested the batteries, they outputted 60-100 A at around 10.1V for 5 seconds.
    That was a surprise! Tells me they're pretty healthy. (there is no stated CCA spec, so take 7xAH=105A load tested value)

    Batteries: UB12150k, 12C/15Ah
    standby use: 13.6-13.8v/2.25A initial current
    cyclic use: 14.6-14.8v/4.5A initial current

    I will check voltage and current when I have run them down, and report.
    I don't know if you can get the cutout voltage LVC, due to recovery.

    Different lithium chemistries have different LVC. They might be shown here: https://batteryuniversity.com/ but the page didn't jump out at me. I'll look around for my paper scratch notes. But if I remember correctly Spinergy opted to use Lithium Iron Phosphate, lifepo4, which is an older style, heavier and large, but great batteries.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  9. #589
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    mrsporto gave me this link to an outfit that sells DIY lithium kits and accessories:https://vruzend.com/tech-center/how-...ry-with-a-bms/

    The link goes right to their 24V BMS (battery management system) which is cheap but only 35A continuous, which, depending on what it does when dealing with <100A intermittent peaks, may work in the ZX1.
    Interesting! The upgrade from manufacturer is like a grand!
    Amazon came through and today I already have my 100A miniature ammeter which unexpectedly, also can go split screen and read voltage as well. However, this will require velcro-ing it to the armrest because, unlike my Neutrix plug/voltage tap at the charging port, the ammeter needs to lead back to the sensing ring which has battery wiring passing through it.
    I also got my mini-battery cutoff switch.

    I wish there was a way to post normal density cell phone photos here without the need to downsize them! I would have good pics to share. If anyone knows how to downsize files in an iPhone 6s using architecture native to the phone, please speak up!!
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  10. #590
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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