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Thread: ZX-1 Power Add-on owners thread

  1. #551
    Sounds to me like it is a short in one of your batteries. Any easy way to test this is to put it on blocks run at at full throttle and test each battery with a multimeter(about $10 at a hardware store). A battery with a short will drop volts (somewhere around 6 volts or more) right away. If that's not enough load put it up against a wall and run and test.

  2. #552
    Senior Member robotnik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    North Brittany, France
    Thanks for the input Pat ! I'll check that, I've already a multimeter…
    This issue is not as big as I've described, because it doesn't happen so often, (I still love my ZX. it's a game changer for sure) but if I could fix it and change this "shutting death" by a "beep" and a "crawl mode" I would be very happy !
    C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
    my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor
    Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

  3. #553
    I've really been happy with this ZX-1 rep
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  4. #554
    Fuente: Love watching wheeler videos when someone's out and about in the community. So, thanks!

  5. #555
    So I pulled the actuator off my ZX-1 ran 12v through it and 0 resistance, so it is fried (which also means the controller is still good so yay me). It is my second actuator so Spinergy must of forgot to remove the OEM sticker. This is the part with a 3 inch stroke and 200 pounds of force. Spinergy wants 360 dollars for said part (which is absurd, I don't mind some markup but 350% is excessive). The problem is the connector, I could simply splice the one from the old actuator onto the new one but would like to avoid any solution that entails electrical tape. Pat (or anyone else) do you have a part number of the connector on the end of the actuator? I browsed Jameco but they have so much stuff I couldn't find it.

    Also I have to say SmartDrive is as good a company as it is a product. I had a bunch of groceries in my backpack and a can of tuna hit the switch on my Smartdrive and broke it, they sent me a prepaid shipping label, fixed it for free and are shipping it back. All no cost to me.


  6. #556
    Quote Originally Posted by t8burst View Post
    So...The problem is the connector, I could simply splice the one from the old actuator onto the new one but would like to avoid any solution that entails electrical tape....
    I hardly ever use electrical tape anymore since learning about shrink wrap. Install before connecting.

    Agreed about Smartdrive, their business model is like no other around that I know of.
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  7. #557
    You can use two 18-22 gauge insulated female connectors(red) that you can get them from autozone, home depot etc... I might have the correct connector lying around somewhere, I'll take a look in a bit.
    I'm still using the same actuator for many years now. They are very well made and have internal limit switches that kill the power at each end of it's stroke. It's important that nothing prevents that from happening. Make sure those allen head stop bolts aren't out too far. Also disconnect one side of the actuator and make sure that whole swing arm assembly and clamshell move freely without any side to side slop and that the bottom bolts of the shock don't contact the sides of the motors.

  8. #558
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    NW NJ ***********T12 cmplt since 95
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  9. #559
    The part number is D50754 but I don't think you can buy it online. I would think a wheelchair repair place can buy it directly from PG Drives.

  10. #560
    You might be able to get one here: or here: but you'd have to call them. It's a PG Drives part which is now owned by Curtis Wright.

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