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Thread: ZX-1 Power Add-on owners thread

  1. #481
    The clicking is probably the relay in the controller. Just sounds like the actuator isn't getting a connection. Check the plug to make sure one of the contacts isn't loose or pushed in to the housing. It plugs in to the bottom left two terminals on the controller. It's possible to plug it into the wrong place. If that doesn't work you can test to see if the actuator is working by unplugging it and giving it direct voltage(positive and negative). A 9 volt battery will work.

  2. #482
    Quote Originally Posted by pattherat View Post
    The short wheelbase on your Kuschall will make it harder for the front wheels to bump up over obstacles. Center of gravity also plays a part. The clamping mechanism on the ZX1 is designed for a 1 1/4" camber tube. It should clamp firmly but still allow the camber tube to rotate inside the clamping. It's possible that your Kuschall has a smaller, possibly 1 1/8" cambertube causing it to shift laterally too easily. Spinergy may have a thicker carbon fiber bushing to help with that. I've never felt the need for shaft collars although they may help but if you aren't centered and the clamp clamps down on one you may damage something like the actuator. If your armrests are adjusted correctly, they will guide you in centered. I line mine up directly over my manual wheels.

    On number 4, the ZX1s armrest act as an anti-tip to keep your manual chair from tipping too far back when in a "wheelie". So if they are set too close(front to back) to your backrest, your front wheels won't be able to "lift up" over obstacles. Set them so they are about 2 3/4" behind the backrest when your chair is connected and rear wheels are just slightly above the ground.

    Knobby tires are a bit bumpy and noisy indoors. I use these http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/3...ead-kenda.html They are quiet and feel like a pnuematic and have good tread. They're are twice as much as a gray foam filled which will work as good but I prefer black. Dealing with air filled drive wheels are a PITA. If they are too low your clamp won't line up correctly with your cambertube and you won't get as much clearance when raising the rear manual wheels when going ove an obstacle. Not to mention the possibilty of getting stuck with a flat.

    I've never felt the need to switch to lithiums. I use only VMAX batteries. https://www.vmaxtanks.com/ . I have however added two 6ah batteries in addition to the two 15ah batteries giving me a total of 21ahs. I use it everyday, all day and never have a range problem. Charge them every night or once a week if you are not using it daily and they will last a year.

    Another thing to consider is the front airshock. Either make sure it has the proper psi for your weight or better yet set it to "lock out" like I do. It really doesn't absorb any shock.

    Also that front caster on the ZX1 was designed to minimize the armrest "dive" that Robotnik mentioned. It really isn't that effective and can be removed completely, as I have done, including the fork.
    Swap it with the back fork like Robotnik says.

    Another important thing that Robotnik has done is removing those "stop bolts" that limit the range that the "swing arm" can raise your chair. They are a bad idea for a few reasons and will cause the actuator to fail prematurely.

    Pat, how did you hook up the extra 2 6ah batteries and did you just lay them on top of the controller box? does the hood still fit over the batteries?

  3. #483
    Senior Member robotnik's Avatar
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    Pat, any idea for a resetting device/solution "on-the-go" ?
    Something easier than plugging the beast, when you don't have the charger nor the plug ?
    C6-7 since mid 2002, no hand control nor triceps.
    my website & my job (in France): Accessibility advisor www.acceslibre.eu
    Also working on a French research about Peer counseling and Empowerment.

  4. #484
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    Pat, how did you hook up the extra 2 6ah batteries and did you just lay them on top of the controller box? does the hood still fit over the batteries?
    They sit behind each battery and wired in parallel with the battery in front of it. They sit on 1" foam strips on top of the motors and are velcro strapped to the battery in front of it. Yes you do have to cut off the front lip of the "hood" /cover. It's sits back about 3/4 further. I think it looks better like that though.
    I don't know an easy way to post a pic but I'll email it to you.

  5. #485
    Quote Originally Posted by robotnik View Post
    Pat, any idea for a resetting device/solution "on-the-go" ?
    Something easier than plugging the beast, when you don't have the charger nor the plug ?
    I have an auxiliary battery in the back of my jeep with a 150W inverter and plug an extra charger into that. It seams to work well but I've only had the need to use it a few times. No real testing on how long it takes to charge the batteries to a specific level.

    I think an inexpensive set up is to get a small inverter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-CPI-150.../dp/B000F6NULK that plugs into your cigarette lighter(if you have one) and a second charger like this: https://www.vmaxtanks.com/BC2403XM-2...er-_p_136.html

  6. #486
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    My axle kit arrived today from Ti
    Sunday I'll work on this jalopy and see how it goes with a chair that fits me as well as the axle holder!
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  7. #487
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Exploring the mechanics of the coupling system

    My new axle arrived so I can convert my house chair from stupid adjustable camber system to simple axle that the ZX-1 will mate to.
    My initial "road test", using a too small Kurshall 3000GT which also has a too-small 30mm axle, was problematic. The ZX would not stay centered and wandered laterally under the chair.
    SO:
    I got a pair of 1 1/8" aluminum split shaft collars (why the hell aren't 1.25" collars available?)
    I tapered one side expecting that to improve the mating process between ZX & Ti. I also took the corners off the ends of the upper clamshell @30* cuts.
    I put wheels and locating collars on new Ti axle and played with the mechanism, mainly looking to see if the collars were likely to foul the clamshell and cause a problem or damage.
    What I found is interesting: until the clamshell/lifting mechanism contacts the adjustable stop-screw on the left side adjacent to proximity sensor, what is closing the clamshell is only the weight of the front"A" frame and caster. If the pair of wheels/axle is rotated about it's horizontal axis, the clamshell opens and the front caster lifts. This requires not much force! The ZX and the Ti are very loosely coupled-not good!

    This is occurring after the tires have been raised ~3/8" off the floor. (these are 24" 1 3/8" bicycle tires; they are slightly low to the clamshell, but i think that fact makes the process more prone to centering the axle in that the first thing the collars meet is the hemispherical head of the clamshell hinge pin as the lower half of the clamshell is lifting the axle against gravity, long before the upper clamshell gets into the act)

    This tells me that I was and will be running this rig at about this geometry and that it will not be OK. I wonder about augmenting the stop screw with a heavy spring that comes into play as soon as the tires begin to lift off the ground? That would make it require a whole lot more force to open the clamshell/let the axle rotate horizontally.

    I have photos but this site requires resizing to publish any pics off my iPhone-sux!EDIT: resized and posted

    After more fiddling, I see that in order for the axle to misalign/spread clamshell, the weight of the now elevated chair, expressed onto the clamshell, must be considered as it will slightly raise the chair. The geometry is such that I don't think it's much of a factor. To check it, the chair and me would be off the floor, so I won't be able to use my 24" tires to input the torque. I'll see if I can find a big bully to do it, or maybe I can pull up to something I can use my arms on.

    Problem is, to do this I need to install the new axle on my Ti TR/C and won't be able to do what I've been doing to figure this geometry dynamic out.
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by pfcs49; 07-23-2017 at 02:10 PM.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  8. #488
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    I continued playing with geometry. The chair came with upper and lower links set for 25"
    I set both at 24" but it didn't seem too promising. The open clamshell was quite low to the point that on uneven terrain there was quite a possibility it would spit out the axle which was almost below the mechanisms centerline on an even floor. Also, that looseness as seen in the upper photo was really troubling and i wanted to explore that.
    I set it to 26" and that wasn't good-forget why, so I moved the upper pivots to 25 and 24" positions-definitely NG including the link can go over-center @full open but snaps into position OK on the lift/close cycle.
    Finally I explored the 25" lower combinations before settling on 25x25.

    The business of the clamshell spreading as in the top photo also applies to fore-aft movement as well! The rear of the clamshell is what conveys the thrust of the ZX-1 when it moves forward!
    It is free until it contacts the two adjustable stop screws which in the cased of the 24" setup is well before the linear motor is fully extended; I'm pretty certain that under hard pushing (big hill or on a lawn) the clamshell indeed must open from the load and the machine and chair liable to have disagreements about what forward is!
    IMO, in these cases there are two bad options: stall the motor well before it's limit, or let it run to it's limit and have MAJOR slop in the coupling. (in the case of 2nd option/24", ~2" of opening of clamshell!)

    I found that @ 25" top and 25" lower settings, with the stops fully screwed in, the motor reaches it's limit and the stops are not touched. (not the case in other configurations). The linear motor is not stalled, just stops gently. I left the stop screws fully in with the locknut still on them; this leaves about 1/8" of play which translated into just a little bit of available play at the clamshell-1/4-3/8"? Perfectly acceptable. This negligible play could be eliminated by adjusting the stops out a bit but I choosing to leave it un-stressed.

    The proximity sensor is removed. If fully adjusted, it activated only at the very end of clamshell travel. I tested and confirmed that if un-plugged it doesn't affect the controls. I removed the harness to the controller as well. (I'm wondering how much weight can be removed? The components of the anti-tips is some meaty 1/4" stainless flat stock!)

    Also-there's a button in the BMS? between the batteries that faces rearward. Is this a reset button?

    Tomorrow I'll install this test axle on my chair and see how different my experience is from the Kurschall trial.
    I'm leaving the anti-tips on for now; I want to get clear what it's like with them on before off.
    Last edited by pfcs49; 07-23-2017 at 10:52 PM.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  9. #489
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    I am totally disgusted and disconsolate!

    I decided to renovate my TR/C so it would be a good house chair-new $265 back to replace failing one; and $325 for axle and bracketry (to replace ridiculous boxed adjustable axle so )I could attach the ZX-1 to and go around our neighborhood.

    Spent several hours with the new axle and ZX understanding and adjusting things.

    Spent several hours today changing axle, adding 1/2" dump, moving CG back a little, adjusting brakes, setting toe.
    Time for a sweaty tired reward: connect the two and take a cool off lap.

    NOT! The TR/c (which I already hated) lower frame interferes with the tires/no way it will work!!
    Never assume!! Back to square one. Need another chair.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  10. #490
    Sorry to hear that you're having so much trouble with this. I originally designed the ZX1 to attach to the chair I was using at the time, a TiLite TRc. I'm not sure what could be interfering with the ZX1s drive wheels. Could you post pics of this. I'm also happy to help via email or phone if that would be better.

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