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Thread: ZX-1 Power Add-on owners thread

  1. #651
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Well, I took a 1.1 mile walk with my wife which included three pretty steep hills. Starting up the third hill, the unit started going down and by halfway up the hill it was clear there was no way it was going to make it. It was going at a crawl.
    So I decoupled and fought my way up the hill while Julie "walked" the ZX-1 up the hill, where I remounted it.
    It seemed to have good speed on the less steep end of the hill, you'd hardly expect there was a problem!
    And, I failed to note the no-load/free state voltage! However, the voltage just before bailing out was ~10V but current only 20A
    I'm assuming the batteries were close to fully charged, but there's possible confusion. As I said earlier, the charger states LiIon charger; I charged for a couple hours. When I previously left it on overnight, it never shut off/lit the battery charged light.

    I promise to collect better data next time! Maybe repeat the course after confirming full charge (~26V) and then taking notes on my trip, as well as free voltage after the workout.
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  2. #652
    [QUOTE=pfcs49;1867434]John: "something , im sure your rep pointed out to you, is that with the lithium upgrade you really lose the ability to tweek your setting much, adding more power anyway. iv tweeked mine and my unit will go into crawl mode or shutdown with heavy use, sometimes at the worst times due to the battery manager. keep that in mind. ive dialed mine back down a bit."



    My DME loaned me a programmer for the ZX. I have a copy of the settings i used on the one I got from Pat. I have the power set to 100.How much did you dial it down PFCS? My big hastle before resetting the unit was going up the van ramp into the van and turning around on the carpet. I upped the turning acceleration and that helped.

  3. #653
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    I put the tires on the original rims
    These are two piece wheels and if you take the lug bolts off with the tire inflated they split apart and the tube tries to come out through the middle! They really should have a couple screws to hold the two together so you could deal with them like a regular wheel and tire if you wanted to swap them.

    PS: Is that large electronics box on top of your controller the lithium Ion conversion?
    The big fluted box on top of the batteries is the VR2 central controller, but the smooth small (about 3" square) box, usually located on top of that, is the Lithium Battery Management System (BMS) that controls the charging and discharging of the battery units, which also (apparently) have their own basic BMS system each. See this prior photo.

    Also note the red (or in this photo black) plastic plugs onto the battery that you need to unplug and replug to reset the system, should your controller shut off and go into flashing error mode in an overload situation. In rough terrain always go into a lower speed mode where torque (power) is usually set higher, but with lower speed less current to trip the BMS if too much current drawn upon.

    Last edited by coolmobility; 11-04-2018 at 06:30 AM.
    Just love inventing stuff.

  4. #654
    Quote Originally Posted by pattherat View Post
    I think it's probably just the movement of your mount that's making it steer funny. If you've ever tried driving the ZX-1 with the armrest not locked in you know it's not easy.
    It looks like you routed the cables well.
    I could probably make you a decent solid mount if you'd like. I think it would be better if it was a bit higher and further back.
    I'd agree with Pat, the bracket to mount the second controller must be solid. Consider using a 25mm clamshell yacht tube clamp like this https://www.arnoldsboatshop.com.au/o...iABEgLyrPD_BwE
    or one of these Bimini hinged knuckles here https://www.boathardware.com.au/bimi...e-stainless-st
    Also, if you extend the length of the joystick, you will decrease the end knob sensitivity, making it easier for an assistant to drive from behind.
    Hope this helps.
    Just love inventing stuff.

  5. #655
    [QUOTE=Patrick Madsen;1868227]
    Quote Originally Posted by pfcs49 View Post
    John: "something , im sure your rep pointed out to you, is that with the lithium upgrade you really lose the ability to tweek your setting much, adding more power anyway. iv tweeked mine and my unit will go into crawl mode or shutdown with heavy use, sometimes at the worst times due to the battery manager. keep that in mind. ive dialed mine back down a bit."



    My DME loaned me a programmer for the ZX. I have a copy of the settings i used on the one I got from Pat. I have the power set to 100.How much did you dial it down PFCS? My big hastle before resetting the unit was going up the van ramp into the van and turning around on the carpet. I upped the turning acceleration and that helped.
    forward power or power? if the later it will shut down with lipo quickly.
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  6. #656
    exactly. the sweet spot is tricky to dial with the battery upgrade. mind posting your settings??
    i see you disconnected your proximity sensor. i did that to.
    Quote Originally Posted by coolmobility View Post
    The big fluted box on top of the batteries is the VR2 central controller, but the smooth small (about 3" square) box, usually located on top of that, is the Lithium Battery Management System (BMS) that controls the charging and discharging of the battery units, which also (apparently) have their own basic BMS system each. See this prior photo.

    Also note the red (or in this photo black) plastic plugs onto the battery that you need to unplug and replug to reset the system, should your controller shut off and go into flashing error mode in an overload situation. In rough terrain always go into a lower speed mode where torque (power) is usually set higher, but with lower speed less current to trip the BMS if too much current drawn upon.

    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  7. #657
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    NW NJ ***********T12 cmplt since 95
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolmobility View Post
    The big fluted box on top of the batteries is the VR2 central controller, but the smooth small (about 3" square) box, usually located on top of that, is the Lithium Battery Management System (BMS) that controls the charging and discharging of the battery units, which also (apparently) have their own basic BMS system each. See this prior photo.

    Also note the red (or in this photo black) plastic plugs onto the battery that you need to unplug and replug to reset the system, should your controller shut off and go into flashing error mode in an overload situation. In rough terrain always go into a lower speed mode where torque (power) is usually set higher, but with lower speed less current to trip the BMS if too much current drawn upon.

    My unit only has the VR-2 control box. There are no other modules unless you include what seems to be a resettable circuit breaker; it's small with a button on it, only two connections which are the battery circuit and connects the pair.
    I'm still not 100% clear about the BMS box; I assume you mean the square one on the left?
    Then, what is the rectangular one to the right?
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  8. #658
    Senior Member pfcs49's Avatar
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    Here is what I have.
    The battery is on charger again because it was slightly below 100% according to my chart.
    I check the offset last night and it was .1V so I put them in parallel overnight.
    I want to get it right before I do another stress test!

    And I surely am curious about what the second box is. I am suffering from box deprivation anxiety!
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    69yo male T12 complete since 1995
    NW NJ

  9. #659
    [QUOTE=fuentejps;1868231]
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Madsen View Post
    forward power or power? if the later it will shut down with lipo quickly.
    I used the previous setting from my old ZX1 with SLA batteries. The new one is with Lithium.

    Settings:
    Speed settings: Acceleration-100. Deceleration-45. TurnAcceleration- 100. Turn Deceleration- 100

    Forward speed %. Max 100 Min 30
    Reverse speed% max 50. Min20
    Turning Speed max 45 min 20
    POWER % 100 not shown on programmer. just from Spec sheet Pat sent me.

    there was a faultcode of 5400, #2 on the new one. My old one shows a fault code 2400,#1. What does this mean?

    Joystick throws are all 100%

    My main concern was the turning delay on my van carpet. was lower than I have it set above. Any changes I should make? I'm concerned about shutting down the Lipo too quickly. I haven't really put it to the test yet. I was lucky to get a couple miles at most with the SLA one; even with new batteries.

  10. #660
    it will shut down on you at power 100%, the bms will kick it off.
    [QUOTE=Patrick Madsen;1868250]
    Quote Originally Posted by fuentejps View Post

    I used the previous setting from my old ZX1 with SLA batteries. The new one is with Lithium.

    Settings:
    Speed settings: Acceleration-100. Deceleration-45. TurnAcceleration- 100. Turn Deceleration- 100

    Forward speed %. Max 100 Min 30
    Reverse speed% max 50. Min20
    Turning Speed max 45 min 20
    POWER % 100 not shown on programmer. just from Spec sheet Pat sent me.

    there was a faultcode of 5400, #2 on the new one. My old one shows a fault code 2400,#1. What does this mean?

    Joystick throws are all 100%

    My main concern was the turning delay on my van carpet. was lower than I have it set above. Any changes I should make? I'm concerned about shutting down the Lipo too quickly. I haven't really put it to the test yet. I was lucky to get a couple miles at most with the SLA one; even with new batteries.
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

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