ZX-1 Power Add-on owners thread

[pattherat]

The airshock isn'nt the main part of the clamshell. In fact, it could be replaced with a simple stud without a change. I don't remember exactly, but I think mine doesn't have any, or minimal pressure, and is locked. I'm going to swap it with a rod ASAP, as I have the use for the shock on my handbike

If you don't want to go through the trouble of making a solid rod with rod ends you can just replace it with any mountain bike shock that is 165mm or 6.5" eye to eye, 8mm bolt holes. I've seen them for less than $20 on ebay.

[pfcs49]

Not sure what you are trying to figure out with the kill switch and voltmeter, but it looks like fun.

I wanted a voltmeter to watch battery discharge. With no experience with this thing, a 3 mile loop to go on, and cheap lead batteries, I want to be able to look at idle voltage to predict how much is left.
The kill switch is to re-boot the controller if I should get stuck somewhere. I don't see how I could re-boot otherwise when elevated and clamped in a dead buggy!
Ansblue Rotary Battery Disconnect Switch, Rotary Isolator Kill ON OFF Switch 300A for Rv Van of Truck Van - Red+Black

The ammeter was an unexpected bonus when I was shopping for a voltmeter. I found a dual function meter for $17 and got it bayite DC 5-120V 100A Mini Digital Current Voltage Amp Meter Ammeter Gauge with Hall Effect Sensor Transformer

If the machine may overheat and shut down, I'd like to have some empirical data which may help to predict and avoid it, especially if it is a frequent problem! They call this Schooley's Mountain for a reason!
Also, the voltmeter and ammeter are helpful to see what's going on when charging. As I said earlier, it seems to be a lithium ion charger so I feel a need to watch what's happening.
So far it seems it runs a little higher voltage tan a conventional deal; the charging current seems to stay low the whole time it's charging.

Julie is doing well given the major heart event she had. She walks the 3 mile loop most mornings-at least she did We will be working to get back to this.

Thanks for the tire info.
PS: FBW controls-If you're not in a hurry, I'll go through a bunch of stuff and send a care package. I want to revisit the Volvo and VW/Audi TPSs and provide pin-outs and other info so you'll have a leg up when you get them. Also this will put me on the same page for any discussions about implementing.

[pattherat]

You should still be able to turn on the controller with it's own power button after it shuts down from driving. The battery voltage will rise a bit as they rest giving you time to release from the clamshell. If you're just concerned with being stuck in the clamshell, you could wire up a switch inline from the actuator and one of the batteries. The VR2 controller can be programmed to cut-off when the batteries are between 16v and 22v. I don't know what value they set it at at the factory and I can't check it right now but I do know that the actuator can be operated with less than 9v. A square 9v battery will run it.

I think what you're doing is a great idea. What might be more useful is to get voltage readings from each battery. I've had batteries develop shorts which greatly affect range. This seems to be happening frequently lately. I have one right now. When a battery develops a short it's voltage will drop substantially under load. It would be nice to see that happening instead of just wondering if the batteries are losing range from age. Also the sooner you notice a difference between the two batteries the more likely you'll be able to get a replacement under warranty. I don't know if it's quality control, the size of battery, or just because I'm constantly trying to push stuff around in the shop that won't budge.

No rush on the package, I still got a ways to go before I can even think about firing it up.

[robotnik]

@pfcs49 : each time my ZX-1 bugged -total and brutal shutdown- (due to overheating on rough terrain the last time) we tried to unplug/plug madly both the joystick and the batteries.
It never had an effect.
The only solution to awake the beast has been, for me, to plug it to the wall charger. At the second it started like a new one, with the level of battery it had before the bug.
I believe it acts as a reset of the controller, and I'm not sure a kill switch will do the same.

@pat : what do you mean by "to turn on the controller with it's own power button after it shuts down" ? where is this button ? Is it this famous and so long-awaited reset ?

[elarson]

My husband has hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). He does fine with the joystick on the ZX-1 when the environment is not too hectic and I can coach him. He does not do well in crowded loud environments where he cannot hear me well or there is a lot going on with bikes, trams, cars -- we live in Amsterdam. He also needs assistance with tight spaces like elevators, trams and wheelchair taxis, and it's hard for me to take over standing behind him to reach the joystick.

I saw that PG Drives has a VR2 - Dual Attendant Control http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Pr...endant-Control. I think the push button exchange of control between user and attendant would be the perfect solution for us. Has anyone configured the ZX-1 to use this, or know if the Dual Attendant Module can be retrofitted to the ZX-1?

Here is a photo with the Dual Attendant Modul e shown in the bottom middle:

[fuentejps]

im sure pat could walk u through setting that up.

[pattherat]

There is no reason why you couldn't use a dual attendant control on a ZX-1 BUT I can see some potential problems if it isn't done correctly. I only see one way of doing it correctly and that is to mount it securely to the ZX-1's armrest. The first thought is to mount it to the backrest push handles, if your husband's chair has them, but then the joystick would move independently of the ZX-1 at times, like when you start to ascend a ramp or just the front casters going over a bump. I can see that causing a problem with joystick control. Another problem with mounting it there is that it must be unplugged from the controller before the wheelchair can disengage from the ZX-1. If your using the anti-tilts with the crossbar this can be very difficult to do and if you forget you could damage the control.
So yes it could be easily done but you have to do it right and I think that can only be done with a custom made bracket that attaches solidly and securely to the ZX-1's armrest, be sure to route and zip tie the cable so it doesn't interfere with any moving parts or pinch points of both the ZX-1 and the manual chair and make sure the manual chair is still allowed to rotate within the clamshell without hitting the attendant control.

[elarson]

Probably what I need to know most at this point is if it possible, rather than exactly how to do it. If Pat is seeing this, it would be good to know if I should make the investment and what exactly I should buy.

im sure pat could walk u through setting that up.

[pattherat]

Yes it's possible. I don't know that anyone has done it before. Only you know you're situation but if you want my opinion, if your husband has trouble with controlling the joystick in certain situations and you have to assist him at times it seems like a good reason to invest in this option. There is no programming necessary, it's "plug n play". You would just need to purchase the Dual Attendant Control and plug it into your VR controller. There is one on ebay right now for $430.

[elarson]

Many thanks for both replies Pat. I had not seen your first reply when I had posted the last one (oops).

That's great to hear that this is possible and that I don't need to reprogram. I also appreciate knowing where to mount it, because I was thinking of an extension on the back rigidizer bar. I think placing it just after the bend on the armrest will work okay though.

Yes it's possible...