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Thread: Hallmark Restoration

  1. #21
    That's a good point - I think I recall that you need 41mm between the forks to have enough clearance for those wider castors. Also, I don't think you need to change spacers, those FL are a bit dished at the hubs.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by amyk View Post
    That's a good point - I think I recall that you need 41mm between the forks to have enough clearance for those wider castors. Also, I don't think you need to change spacers, those FL are a bit dished at the hubs.
    Yes. I believe the wider caster wheels will fit. I have 45mm between the forks (inner measurement of course).
    E
    There is no such thing as a stupid question but there sure are a lot of inquisitive idiots. -modified from despair.com

  3. #23
    Senior Member elarson's Avatar
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    Your chair is absolutely beautiful Essie. I hope you find the parts you need.
    Partner of an incredible stroke survivor. Limitations: hemiparesis and neglect (functional paralysis and complete lack of awareness on one side). Equipment: TiLite ZRA 2 and 2GX, Spinergy ZX-1, RioMobility Firefly. Knowledge: relative newbie for high-level equipment (2012), but willing to try to help others who are new with similar limitations (definitely not a guru, but inquisitive).

  4. #24
    Senior Member IsMaisin's Avatar
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    On the seat pan - I can't remember where but someone has posted some nice pics of strips of carbon fiber instead of a solid pan.

    On tire sizes - ETRTO sizing is xx-yyy where xx is the width of the tire and yyy is the diameter in mm, the yyy diameter is for the inside bead of the tire. The 23-559 RightRuns that came with my chair have exactly the same inside bead diameter as the 50-559 Kojaks I swiched to, but the Kojaks have an outside diameter 45mm larger than the RightRun's.

    A narrower wheel rim will also give an outside diameter greater than a wider rim will for the same tire.
    Played with bombs- No SCI, Brain Damage enough that I require a chair and a caregiver.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by IsMaisin View Post
    On the seat pan - I can't remember where but someone has posted some nice pics of strips of carbon fiber instead of a solid pan.
    Funny you should mention this. I was looking at Toto's CF strip thread last night thinking it would work well.

    E
    There is no such thing as a stupid question but there sure are a lot of inquisitive idiots. -modified from despair.com

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Essie View Post
    Funny you should mention this. I was looking at Toto's CF strip thread last night thinking it would work well.

    E
    My Halls has a solid seat cf pan velcro'd to the frame. Seat strips would accomplish the same thing and is probably less expensive.




  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephen212 View Post
    My Halls has a solid seat cf pan velcro'd to the frame. Seat strips would accomplish the same thing and is probably less expensive.
    Does your seat taper? If so, did you cut the CF to the taper?

    Mine tapers from 15" to 12.75" within its 14" depth. That's why I was thinking the strips might be easier.

    E
    There is no such thing as a stupid question but there sure are a lot of inquisitive idiots. -modified from despair.com

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Essie View Post
    Does your seat taper? If so, did you cut the CF to the taper?

    Mine tapers from 15" to 12.75" within its 14" depth. That's why I was thinking the strips might be easier.

    E
    My Halls does not taper (my ZR does). That's why I agree that strips are probably the way to go. Though with a saw and some sand paper you could shape a solid pan to match the taper. Six of one. . .

  9. #29
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    Help!

    I want to replace the caster wheels with a smaller size but, in the mean time, I thought I would clean the ones I have. The chair came with a single swivel anti tipper which has the same set up as the front wheels so I thought I would start there.

    I removed the two screws from the sides and that is as far as I got. I cannot get the rest of the set up to move. I have tried whacking it and it did not move (marred it up a little though).


    What do I need to do to?

    E
    There is no such thing as a stupid question but there sure are a lot of inquisitive idiots. -modified from despair.com

  10. #30
    put the bolt all the way back in, back it out a couple turns. then hit it. you won't mess up the threads that way. use a piece of wood between the screw head and hammer.

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