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Thread: New TR3

  1. #1

    New TR3

    I'm finalizing the order form for my TiLite TR3, it will be my first TiLite.
    I have read tons of useful posts but I have still few doubts.

    I am a big guy: 6'4 and 240 lbs, T1 para using a Jay Deep Contour cushion so I need a high backrest.
    TR3 will replace my current Progeo Joker that worked well for me except that I broke several times the backrest tubes (first in alu, then in titanium and finally OK titanium with steel inner tube) and finally the frame tube broke at the point of pressure of the backrest.

    This lead my main design decisions: a reinforced box frame, a fixed backrest and same measures as my current chair.
    Here is the CAD drawing and a picture comparing of the two chairs using overlays.

    I tested that I could still take my chair into my car without folding the backrest.

    The CAD drawing shows a tapered front but I decided to change for a V-front because that's what I have on the Joker and I'm afraid the tapered front could annoy when I transfer to high car seat.

    I'm still in doubt about:
    - footrest width: I'm using a FreeWheel so with tapered front I selected 11" but for V-front I hesitate between 11"5 and 12".
    - seat width: my current seat is 15"35 and it's tight with very rigid side guards so I hesitate to take 15" and adjusting on side guards or take 16". The problem is that I never had a backrest of 16", I should probably test one first.

    The CAD drawing shows an overall width of 21.6 +/- 0.375, this is less than my Joker, does it include the pushrims?
    Last edited by Big; 12-09-2012 at 07:01 PM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Big View Post
    The CAD drawing shows an overall width of 21.6 +/- 0.375, this is less than my Joker, does it include the pushrims?
    It looks like it might include them. The dimension lines extend well beyond the "treaded tire"
    I have had periodic paralysis all my life. I lost my ability to walk in 2011 beginning with a spinal block, which was used for a hip fracture caused by periodic paralysis.

  3. #3
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    Big - I'm 6’2” / size 11 shoe. My 11” V front width works fine running a FreeWheel.

    IF you’ll be regularly changing your footrest height along with seat height, a tapered front (straight up and down) adjusts easier than a V front, where tube angles introduce a friction component, which equals more arm wrestling and less range.

    Right, the CAD overall width includes the tabbed push rims, short or long per your specs.
    Last edited by nofuss; 12-04-2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: rim dimension

  4. #4
    Thanks nofuss, same shoe size so it'll be fine.
    I don't plan to change my footrest height.
    My legs are not skinny so a tapered front could cause friction at mid height and also I'm afraid my legs could get somehow blocked when transferring high and far into some cars.

    I have also requested caster pin locks (for table tennis mainly but also useful for transfers), a friend of mine got them for a ZR but it seems that TiLite is taking time to answer about how much it will cost, at least that's what the French rep said.
    Last edited by Big; 12-04-2012 at 03:03 PM.

  5. #5
    My legs tend to fall when going up curbs or when I relax.
    I think it's because my frame is not deep enough, so I am now considering adding 1'' of custom seat depth and also increasing front angle from 75 to 80.
    The overall length of the chair should not vary too much.

  6. #6
    Here is a picture of my legs which may explain the need for longer frame and 80° angle.

  7. #7
    Text delete-I misread the post
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  8. #8
    Thanks Ashleigh, that's probably wiser, especially in winter when wearing a padded jacket.
    Also, yesterday I tried e-motion wheels on a 17" wide chair and it did not seem that huge for my back, so 16" should be fine.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Brianm View Post
    Going from 75 to 80 would decrease the length of your chair, as 80 degrees is tighter where 75 is more extended.
    Right Brian but at the same I'm increasing the seat depth by 1" so I thought it should compensate.
    On the photo I put, I think my legs are correctly positioned almost vertical so I'd like to keep this position while having more "metal" at the top of my legs.

    OK, I was too fast to reply, now you deleted your post, so I guess we agree

  10. #10
    Given your that you're 6' 4" I was wondering why you've opted for 24" wheels. I would think that would put you at a mechanical disadvantage for getting as strong a wheel stroke/push as possible. I'm (only) 5' 9" and I use a 25" wheel. I would think that a 25" (or even a 26" wheel) would be a big improvement for you.

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