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Thread: zr1 forks

  1. #1

    zr1 forks

    i really need to know if its even possible to remove tilite zr1 standard forks? I removed the caster wheel and the nut, now im trying to get the fork off and it isn't budging. this is time sensitive, so quick responses are appreciated.

    f
    ight

  2. #2
    Remove the highlighted nut shown below and the fork should come off:
    Attachment 45413
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  3. #3
    Removed said nut. Fork is not coming off. Even tried hitting it with a hammer. Thanks for the quick reply though.

    f
    ight

  4. #4
    They must be 'frozen' on then. My guess is rust is holding the inner bearing race to the stems. The forks should come off. Try turning the chair upside down, spraying some penetrating oil (e.g., WD40) around the base of the fork stems then tapping the forks gently with a wooden block for a minute or so to help the oil penetrate. Wait about a half hour, turn the chair right-side up, and try knocking the forks off with wooden blocks.

    This is why some users order titanium fork stems - they don't rust.
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    673
    Maybe try spraying WD40 at the top and bottom of the fork.
    Rollin' since '89. Complete C8

  6. #6
    WD40 and a RUBBER mallet, never know when those forks may come in handy again.

  7. #7
    Had the same issue with my ZR1 when I swapped out the forks for a set of Unitines. One fork came off with no effort, the other had to be pounded out due to rusting. I chose titanium fort stems for my ZR2 for this reason.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    673
    Stephen,

    Are you happy with your ZR2? I'm trying to get one and the DME I'm working with is killing me becasue how long it's taking.
    Rollin' since '89. Complete C8

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Crappler View Post
    Stephen,

    Are you happy with your ZR2? I'm trying to get one and the DME I'm working with is killing me becasue how long it's taking.
    Crappler,

    My ZR2 is a combination of the TiLite frame (polished with a fixed back) and a host of aftermarket parts (e.g., ADI back, Surelock locking hubs and camber clamps, Frog Legs Unitine forks and casters, custom carbon fiber seat pan and side guards). A lot of thought went into every feature of the chair and I'm completely satisfied with the result.

    A little birdie, who shall remain nameless, informs me that the new TR3 is an even more responsive ride than the ZR2. If I was buying a new chair (and I have no plans to!) I would have to consider a TR3 as an alternative possibility, though I prefer the more open look of the ZR2.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    673
    I have a TR now, though it's 6 years old, so I don't want to go with anther TR.

    I want to try the open frame thing. Did you post pictures of yours? I recall a real real nice customer ZR thread with pictures on it, I just don't remember if it was yours.
    Rollin' since '89. Complete C8

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