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Thread: TiLite ZR Order Form

  1. #1

    TiLite ZR Order Form

    I'm finally getting a new chair, and I've picked the TiLite ZR. The Voc. Rehab Assistive Tech. person called today and left a message for me to call her back about the new chair. It sounds like all they're going to do is take the measurments from my old chair and just order the new one off that. Thats fine since my measurements haven't changed, but I want to be in on picking the options this time.

    I downloaded the order form to fill out myself so I can only blame myself this time if I get something I don't like. I can't find descriptions or explanations for any of the options anywhere. For example, there are 5 different options for footrests, 9 different handrim choices etc.

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  2. #2
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Thats the kicker, it is hard to tell what half the stuff is. One good source is photos of various TiLite chairs on the 'life with the ZRA' thread as far as footrests go, I think you can see at least 2 or 3 different versions of those. Handrims, well, I figure just get the standard kind. Just make sure you select the folding back this time around (you had the fixed back before I think) and if there is something that bugs you about your current chair size, make them make the appropriate measurement change. (I went with a chair 2 inches shorter than what the 'professionals' origionally ordered for me when I got another one). Oh yeah, make sure they pick the 90 degree front angle for the new chair also, more compact and less chopper-like.

  3. #3
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Just thought of another recommendation for your new chair...get the underseat brakes. They wont dig into door panels when you get the chair into a car, they wont get mangled when dumping it out of your car, and thus they stay in adjustment much much better than the side mounted brakes. At first they are kind of strange to reach, but you will get used to them pretty easily. They also stay out of the way as well when getting the frame into a car as well.

  4. #4
    Originally posted by jimnms:

    I'm finally getting a new chair, and I've picked the TiLite ZR. The Voc. Rehab Assistive Tech. person called today and left a message for me to call her back about the new chair. It sounds like all they're going to do is take the measurments from my old chair and just order the new one off that. Thats fine since my measurements haven't changed, but I want to be in on picking the options this time.

    I downloaded the order form to fill out myself so I can only blame myself this time if I get something I don't like. I can't find descriptions or explanations for any of the options anywhere. For example, there are 5 different options for footrests, 9 different handrim choices etc.

    _____
    Learn from the mistakes of others, you won't live long enough to make all of them yourself.
    yup what andy said about the 90 degree, only way to go. if your a quad get the black coated hand rims. i also only like the under the seat scissor brakes, awkward at first but youll luv them. i run rollerbade frt casters as well, probly called micros.
    as for the back i prefer a rigid non folding back, less things to break the better, still fits in my car fine. you may want some more dump as well
    make sure you are the contact for questions from tilite not voc rehab, they know nothing at all.. also, be sure u review and sign off on the final order form.

  5. #5
    I have an adjustable back on my current chair, the problem with it was the push handles. I've choped them off already though, but still getting a new chair anyway since this one's bent.

    The only options for the back I see are aluminum or titanium. They're worded the same except one is aluminum the other is titanium.

    I don't think those scissor brakes will work for me living on a hill. It's just not going to be possible to get them out and locked before I start rolling backwards. I need to be able to get them locked quick since I'll be loading and unloading on a hill.

    There's an option for something called a "uni-lock" brake, but I have no idea what it is.

    I believe my current chair has the 85° front angle. Might as well go to 90°, 5° wont make much of a difference.

    I've noticed simething about the tapered frame. I always thought it was an option you check on the form, but it's based on the foot rest width and the width of the chair.

    I downloaded the TRa order form to make sure it's the same and it is. The options are 2½", 4" and 6" narrower than the frame. It says the frame will not be tapered only with the 2½ narrower foot rest. I measured mine and it's 6" narrower, so why isn't my current frame tapered? Someone at the factory must have gotten lazy. That's the #2 thing I don't like about my current chair. How can I be sure they wont screw it up again.

    I did find out what one is. They have a new push rim called the "natural fit." The info is in a pdf file:

    http://tilite.com/pdf/TiLite_nfh.pdf

    The chair they broght with the back for me to try had those on it and it did feel good, so I think I'll order those. It's not supposed to make the chair any wider either.

    A couple of things I'm thinking about doing different are going down from a 5" caster to a 4", and going up from 24" wheels to 25".

    There's an option for an additional camber tube. Anyone have that? How does that work?

    I don't think I'm going to get the backpack this time, the zippers on the one that came with my TRa don't stay shut. It does have some option for a "seat pouch." Any idea what that is?

    When I was going over the form for my first chair with the therapist in the hospital, I remember she had another sheet. You wrote in all the measurements, and it would give you the options that were available as far as frame size, dump, frame angles and tell you how wide the chair would be. I don't see this form available on the TiLite website. I don't want one any wider than this one because I still scrape through some doorways.

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    Learn from the mistakes of others, you won't live long enough to make all of them yourself.

    [This message was edited by jimnms on 11-09-04 at 04:24 PM.]

  6. #6
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Jim,

    On the TRA with the front end taper, it is whatever they checked off on the order form back then. I noticed the current order form seems to be revised, this dimention used to be referred to as front end taper, where you had the option of up to 6 inches of taper, there was no reference of footrest width before, they would just attach one that fit with the taper you want. I'd say specify the 6 inches on that now for sure to get the taper you want. Natural Fit=Heavy. Are you going for another set of Spinergies on your new chair as well? Going from 5 to 4 inch fronts in my mind is a step backwards, easier to get caught up in holes or ridges in your path, bigger diameter=easier obstacle rolling over. (unless you like being thrown forward or wheelieing all the time). Hey, if VR is buying, get some Froglegs, they do a nice job of stepping over bumps I feel, and they keep 4 wheels on the ground to an extent if the surface is slightly irregualar (and they can hide a bent frame too ) Going from 24 inch rears to 25 inchers (in the wheelchair wheel sizing scheme) is a good idea, then you can use standard bicycle tires then. I think the additional camber tube is just that, they send you another one for you to install. Just keep in mind that camber=wider chair going through doorways.

  7. #7
    Natural Fit=Heavy.
    The natural fit rims are only 12 oz. heavier than a regular handrim. I take the wheels off when loading in a car, so it's not like it's making the chair heavier.

    Are you going for another set of Spinergies on your new chair as well?
    Yes, I'm going with Spinergy wheels again, never used anything else though and I'm comfortable with them.

    Going from 5 to 4 inch fronts in my mind is a step backwards, easier to get caught up in holes or ridges in your path, bigger diameter=easier obstacle rolling over. (unless you like being thrown forward or wheelieing all the time).
    I've had other people tell me that smaller casters make the chair easier to maneuver. I know that the smaller you go the more likely they'll get caught in sidewalk cracks (seams), but I think 4" will still be plenty big. It's not like I'm not going with those rollerblade size wheels.

    Hey, if VR is buying, get some Froglegs, they do a nice job of stepping over bumps I feel, and they keep 4 wheels on the ground to an extent if the surface is slightly irregualar (and they can hide a bent frame too )
    Well VR works with my insurance and just picks up what they don't cover. My insurance should cover it all since they didn't put out one cent for my first chair. For some reason VR just outright bought my first chair, but now they have to go to the insurance first.

    I thought about the froglegs. Do you have them? Does it mess with your transfers?

    Going from 24 inch rears to 25 inchers (in the wheelchair wheel sizing scheme) is a good idea, then you can use standard bicycle tires then.
    I just thought of something though. I was planning on giving my old chair away and keeping the wheels for spares, if I go to 25" wheels on the new chair, that kind of kills that idea.

    I think the additional camber tube is just that, they send you another one for you to install. Just keep in mind that camber=wider chair going through doorways.
    I have 4° of camber on this chair and it just barely fits through a standard house door. I was hoping it was an additional camber tube on the chair so that you could swap the wheels between them. That way I could get 6° or 8° camaber for when I go out.

    _____
    Learn from the mistakes of others, you won't live long enough to make all of them yourself.

  8. #8
    Originally posted by jimnms:

    Natural Fit=Heavy.
    The natural fit rims are only 12 oz. heavier than a regular handrim. I take the wheels off when loading in a car, so it's not like it's making the chair heavier.

    Are you going for another set of Spinergies on your new chair as well?
    Yes, I'm going with Spinergy wheels again, never used anything else though and I'm comfortable with them.

    Going from 5 to 4 inch fronts in my mind is a step backwards, easier to get caught up in holes or ridges in your path, bigger diameter=easier obstacle rolling over. (unless you like being thrown forward or wheelieing all the time).
    I've had other people tell me that smaller casters make the chair easier to maneuver. I know that the smaller you go the more likely they'll get caught in sidewalk cracks (seams), but I think 4" will still be plenty big. It's not like I'm not going with those rollerblade size wheels.

    Hey, if VR is buying, get some Froglegs, they do a nice job of stepping over bumps I feel, and they keep 4 wheels on the ground to an extent if the surface is slightly irregualar (and they can hide a bent frame too )
    Well VR works with my insurance and just picks up what they don't cover. My insurance should cover it all since they didn't put out one cent for my first chair. For some reason VR just outright bought my first chair, but now they have to go to the insurance first.

    I thought about the froglegs. Do you have them? Does it mess with your transfers?

    Going from 24 inch rears to 25 inchers (in the wheelchair wheel sizing scheme) is a good idea, then you can use standard bicycle tires then.
    I just thought of something though. I was planning on giving my old chair away and keeping the wheels for spares, if I go to 25" wheels on the new chair, that kind of kills that idea.

    I think the additional camber tube is just that, they send you another one for you to install. Just keep in mind that camber=wider chair going through doorways.
    I have 4° of camber on this chair and it just barely fits through a standard house door. I was hoping it was an additional camber tube on the chair so that you could swap the wheels between them. That way I could get 6° or 8° camaber for when I go out.

    _____
    Learn from the mistakes of others, you won't live long enough to make all of them yourself.
    2 things smaller wheels do manuver(SP) easier, but u need to keep a light frt end w/ them, you would probly like blade wheels.. a 25 in wheel gives a tad more speed but less takeoff. we run 26 in wheels on our rugby chairs, because we see more overall speed. 24 in rims are better suited for everyday use, imo

  9. #9
    Suspended Andy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by jimnms:


    I thought about the froglegs. Do you have them? Does it mess with your transfers?
    Yep. I dont see how they could mess w/transfers. They only 'give' maybe under 1/2" with full compression. They smooth out the shock of bumps, but they arent like a suspension system.

  10. #10
    The order is in, sort of. They're going to call me before finalizing the order tomorow.

    I stuck with 24" tires so I can keep the ones from my old chair for spares.

    The things that are different from my current chair:

    I went with 90° front angle, and I had to go down to a 4" caster because with the 90° front angle the 5" casters aren't available. I went with 4" of taper, the old chair didn't have any taper. I selected scissor locks, but I may change that before I finalize the order.

    I put down the standard titanium fixed foot rest. I curently have the angle adjustable one and I've never adjusted it, so I figured I'd go with a fixed one to save weight. The only thing that worries me is there was no option for the angle of the foot rest, and it doesn't say what angle it's set at. I can still change that though.

    _____
    Learn from the mistakes of others, you won't live long enough to make all of them yourself.

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