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Thread: Newbie, so nervous

  1. #41
    Patrick, I have never owned a ZRA but thought it was designed to allow the back angle to stay in place when the RSF was adjusted, is my assumption wrong?
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  2. #42
    So was that a yes on the angle of the seatback changing when changing the seat in the back only?

  3. #43
    Patrick is saying that if you lower the rear seat height that it will change your back angle, where I was under the impression the design accounted for it,but I was going on assumption. Hopefully Patrick (or someone with experience) will set us straight.

    I thought you were going in to someone today Oli?
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  4. #44
    Well, the bolts to move the cog won't budge so we are doing all the other adjustments and the guy said we could try and wiggle some grease in there for the future.

    We are doing all the other adjustments right now though!

  5. #45
    Yes, if the rsh is adjusted downward, the back will natually lean back due to it being bolted to the frame. . Again it's easy to re adjust. If you drop the rsh, the front casters will also have to be readjusted to 90o.

    Oli, if need be, he can always go online to Tilite.com and look at the owners manual. I'm no expert but have a ZRA and just finished rebuilding one.

    Don't get stressed , it'll work out. As many can attest here; It may take more than one adjustment to get it right. I think the consensous here is to get the back lower and forward for now.
    Last edited by Patrick Madsen; 03-09-2011 at 02:40 AM.

  6. #46
    This is from ZRA manual on adjusting COG... (It also has a nice diagram)

    Tools Needed:
    • 3/16” Allen Wrench
    • Ruler
    1. Loosen, but do not remove, the four (two on each side) Allen Screws that secure the toe clamps and the camber
    mount brackets to the frame. See Figure 8-1.
    2. Slide the entire camber tube mounting assembly forward or rearward along the frame until it is positioned in the
    desired location. See Figure 8-2(c). In order to achieve a 1” center of gravity it may be necessary to set the
    camber tube mounting assembly as shown in Figures 8-2(a) or (b). Use a ruler to ensure the camber mount
    assemblies on both sides of the chair are the same distance from the ends of the frame tubes.
    3. Securely tighten the four (two on each side) Allen Screws that secure the toe clamps and camber mount brackets
    to the frame.
    4. Check the rear seat height and adjust as needed.
    5. Check the toe-in/toe-out and adjust as needed and square the front casters as needed.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  7. #47
    Ugggggg, pretty frustrated here.

    Good news is that my back angle is at 95 degrees.
    The other good news is that the guy didn't charge me a dime.
    (I will be bringing him a bottle of our olive oil next week...)

    The neutral news is that we were only able to lower the back of the seat half an inch. My fingers still don't reach the center of the wheels at all.

    The bad news is that we could not lower the seatback. It was as low as it will go without serious modification involving saws and/or drilling or both.

    The other bad news is that we could not move the cog at all because the bolts were totally frozen. The guy tried as hard as he could to get them to move but he didn't want to strip the bolts so he stopped.

    He told me to spray them with WD40 for a week and then see if I and/or my husband could get them to move.

    He showed me exactly what to do. I will have to purchase a little spacer which I can do.

    Then I will be able to lower the back of the seat a little more too. A bolt from the seatback was in the way in order to lower the back of the seat which would not be a problem if we move the cog forward a little bit.

    I am very thankful for all your suggestions and I 'do' think I will be able to make some more of the changes myself as long as those bolts loosen up.

    I don't know what to do about the seatback though....

  8. #48
    Hopefully some others will chime in on the ability to cut down the push-cane bars. You could also contact TiLite with your serial number and see if they have something shorter that can be ordered.

    WD-40 may be ok, but if you can find something like anti-seaze you may have better success.

    Sorry you didn't get done as much as you would have liked. Stay strong.

    Why could you only lower 0.5"? It looks like you have more adjustment than that.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  9. #49
    Well, it could only lower half an inch because of a bolt for the seatback being in the way. It 'looks' like it would go lower but I guess not.

    If I can move the cog forward the bolt will no longer be in the way and it can go down a little lower maybe just a 'hole'. I have to get those bolts loose. I will send my hubby to Home Depot for 'Anti-seize'... and a spacer for the seatback bold that will be need it when the cog moves forward.

    When I got home I wanted to add an under seat net and do SOMETHING myself so I broke out my crappy allen wrenches and took the seat sling off and added the net. Then when I was putting the sling back on I folded under about half an inch of the sling so the seat wouldn't be quite as long. When I put my cushion down I push it into the bottom of the seatback and it makes the whole seat about an inch shorter. So that is nice. I did something myself!

    The 95 degree seatback is really hurting my back right now but it 'might' have just been the two hours of driving I did to get to town. That usually does me in. I will see if I can get used to it over the next few days. I am usually more of a slouchy person because my back feels better that way. I am not sure what to do about it other than wait it out and see how I feel. It also feels lower for some odd reason.

    I attached a 'new and sort of improved' pic...

  10. #50
    It might just be the angle of the picture but that last one looks to me like the chair is way too wide. This can cause other problems. Do you not have insurance to get a proper chair? If you do, all you need is to get a doctor's prescription for the chair and a good DME to fill out the letter of medical necessity.

    Anyhow, laying back in the chair isn't really a good idea. You'll throw your shoulders out. But sitting up ergonomically and properly won't hurt if you get the chair setup properly. I agree the back looks way too tall for someone who isn't a para... Like myself, I can walk some. And I'm 6'4" and my back is only 15" tall from the frame and that doesn't include the 3" cushion. You could order a new back from the manufacturer of the proper size. A taller back makes my back hurt. The lower back makes me more mobile and doesn't hurt my back and I can sit through it all day. Infact, my biggest problem is I have to stand now and again just because I can still feel my knees... Otherwise they start to hurt after a few hours just from being bent all day. You can also adjust the angle in that chair quite a bit. If you're all the way down on the rear-seat measurements, you could consider a smaller cushion. 2" might be all you need. Looks like you might have a big 4" er. But if you're looking at spending real money in the chair anyhow, I'd consider getting a properly measured one even if it's out of pocket. It makes all the difference in the world. And a good DME will have various styles and sizes you can demo for extended periods of time to help get the best chair for you that you can.

    As for your situation; sounds like me. Extreme pain, poor control, etc. Have you done MRIs and/or Spinal Taps to check for evidence of MS type symptoms? Might consider that. And if you haven't seen a good neurologist yet, keep checking. Find one you like cause if that's what you have, you'll be seeing a lot of them. And @#$% the doctors who don't seem to care. I've actually refused payment to two of them cause of that. I argued to the card company that the service paid for was not rendered. I won both claims. Too many doctors today just shuffle people through their offices and should have their licenses revoked... It seems real good doctors are getting harder to find. But a good one won't give up and will keep looking until they are comfortable with the answer. (The downside is that can also get expensive, even just paying for a co-pay). Myself, I ended up finally being shipped off to clinics across the country. Unfortunately the insurance screwed me over so I'm in rather high debt at the moment but... at least we've confirmed what was suspected. Plus they helped me get the prescript for the chair for life so... every few years I get a new chair (as long as I'm insured anyhow...).

    But remember, it's not a lazy-boy, it's a wheelchair. You want to sit up properly and ergonomically correct. And if the chair is too wide, it will cause issues with your shoulders. (As an exmaple, my fat-@$$ wears at LEAST 44" pants, but my chair width is only 19". I can actually squeeze into an 18" really. 19" is perfect. I can't see from your picture but it looks to be a bit wide. A front-on angle and rear-on might help also. Other things you can also do is bring the wheels in closer and/or add camber to them.

    The back of my chair is just under 90 deg (TO THE FLOOR) and I have an ergonomically shaped seat to help posture (flat for 6", then some dump up towards the knees). The back only goes just over the area of my love handles, below my chest level. Right in there. But it looks like you're trying to slide out of that chair... That would really cause a bunch of issues with me. But everyone is their own. The height of the back rest would be a huge issue I'd address first. There's a ton of options including manually cutting it down but you shouldn't have to go that extreme. You can order the frame and back pad for the height you need from the manufacturer most likely. And the height of the seat pad can be most easily changed. That one looks really thick.

    But if you're insured, you should really check out that option first before spending ANY money. Most insurance companies will pay between 60-100% of the costs of required medical equipment. The paperwork is a nightmare but that's what the DMEs are for... If you find a good one, you go in, give them your info, test chairs for a while (I did for almost 9 months), order and get your new chair paying only your deductible (if any).

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