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Thread: Newbie, so nervous

  1. #31
    Ok, I think I got it...

    I do want to lower the over all height of the seat so I am way more sunk into the chair so I will lower both the back and the casters but then add an additional amount lower on the back so there is at least 3 inches of dump.

    I will have him make the seatback at a 95 degree angle.

    I will also lower the seatback about 3 inches.

    Then I will move the back wheels forward about 2 inches (for start) and make sure that my brakes are adjusted as well.

    Gosh, I hope that is it! I am leaving in half an hour.

    I really wish I could hug all of you. I wasn't sure I would be welcomed but you have done more than that by far. Thank so much!

  2. #32
    I hate to keep beating this drum, but the only reason I can see in changing the front height would be because your footrest is quite high off the ground and from your pictures this does not look to be the case. In lowering your front, your footrest will be that much closer to the ground, losing ground clearance. My humble opinion is to leave the front alone, if others differ, please explain. Lowering the back seat to floor will lower you into the rear wheels.

    I wish you the best.

    (PS. I wouldn't get caught up in a set number for amount of dump, rather where the chair works/fits you best. As I say, looking at your picture of you setting in the chair, it would be best (or better) if your hand came down farther, so you were touching the center of the hub.)
    Last edited by Brianm; 03-08-2011 at 02:21 PM.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  3. #33
    But then since I am lowering the back of the chair SO much then the dump would be huge right?

    My main goal is to get more sunk in between the wheels. Can I do that by only lowering the back?

    Looks like I already have 2 inches of dump....

  4. #34
    Have him lower just the back first and see how you like it. Lowering just the back will meet your goal.

    To determine the amount of dump, measure from the floor to the top of the chair frame where your upholstery ends, both in front and back.

    If you do decide to lower the front, watch your footrest clearance.

    These are a number of significant changes at once, the chair will feel a lot different.
    Last edited by Brianm; 03-08-2011 at 02:43 PM.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  5. #35
    I agree with all the above. Two ways of getting into the chair more. One is by lowering the dump, second is thinner cushion or larger wheels. You like the cushion and it is a good quality for sure, Larger wheels would make it a little tough for you right now. The big change first is to get that back straighter and lowered. Once you are sitting up straighter,you'll probably feel like you are sitting in the chair better than slumping like you are now.

    The reason the cog, axles,are so far back now is because of the backward angle of the back. He needed to do that so he wouldn't flip backwards. It is really easy to change that. loosen two screws and take out two screws.

    As Brian said, do the back adjustment first, perhaps get in the chair to see how it feels and then do the cog adjustment. You already have the info of where your hands and fingers should line up to the wheel hub.

    You seem to have good abs and back muscle so lower back and forward will really help sitting you in the chair and then the forward cog will get you wheeling more effriciently and then you'll fly down those aisles.

    You have a fine looking chair there girl,you did great. Did it come with sideguards as well? Some of us like a chair to be responsive in tipping back. I can do a wheelie just by pushing on the wheel and leaning back slightly.

  6. #36
    Thanks for the compliment. It is very hard stuff for a newbie trying to learn on her own! (but I am not on my own anymore thanks to you!)

    It certainly doesnt need sideguards at this point because the wheels are so low! I would be concerned about that once I make the adjustments, not having them when the wheels are sticking up higher. I will have to deal with that later I guess...

    I will adjust the back of the seat first and see if I can get it right without having to adjust the casters. Although I could 'almost' use the foot rest raised a touch too...

    One last question... Once you adjust the seatback to 95 degrees will it stay there as you are doing the other adjustments on the seat level or will it keep needing to be changed. Can't get my mind wrapped around that.


  7. #37
    One comment - you might want to ditch that rug I see in the picture. Wheeling on a carpet or rug is lots more work than on a hard floor surface
    - Richard

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Oli View Post
    One last question... Once you adjust the seatback to 95 degrees will it stay there as you are doing the other adjustments on the seat level or will it keep needing to be changed. Can't get my mind wrapped around that.

    The adjustments to the rear seat height will not affect your back angle. Changing caster position could change it slightly.

    Great question and you are doing great at understanding and foreseeing things; I think you could do well on the adjustments of your chair or at least assisting.
    C5-6 Complete - 8/13/1982

  9. #39
    You don't need to go to wheelchair businesses to have your chair adjusted. A bike mechanic could do it or any car mechanic. Print out the information given here and take it with you so they understand what needs to be done.

  10. #40
    Yes it will, if you change the dump angle, the back angle changes also. If the front and rear are changed with equal dostance then the back angle will stay the same

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