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Thread: Doorway

  1. #11
    Ok, but what if the wall that would need to be cut was a structural wall? Dad said something about moving some studs over? This is all gibberish to me haha

  2. #12
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    It is highly unlikely that the weight bearing stud would be right next to the door frame. They are usually spaced throughout the wall, but my guess is that if the wall was cut back a few inches from where it is now you would not have a problem. Besides, it is not the only weight support for the wall, so the worst that could happen is that it, too, has to be relocated a few inches over. The wall won't collapse while that is happening.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by wheeliegirl2010 View Post
    Ok, but what if the wall that would need to be cut was a structural wall? Dad said something about moving some studs over? This is all gibberish to me haha
    You will probably need to move a stud, yes. (A stud is this: behind the drywall, every few feet there is a piece of wood -- a 2x4 -- running up and down from floor to ceiling. That's the stud. It's the skeleton of the wall, and drywall is the skin.) But you are not removing the wall, just widening the opening.

    What may happen is that you will do is remove the stud on one side, and remove the header, which is the board over top the doorway Widen the opening. Then put back in the stud at the new widened position and put in a wider header. (Someone who is a builder will now step in a correct me. I am a bystander who learns about this stuff for a hobby, not a profession.)

    --> Even if it is a load-bearing wall, you're okay. (And it probably isn't.) The only time load-bearing walls become a big deal in renovations is when you are actually removing the whole wall. For widening the door, there will likely be slightly bigger lumber involved if it is a load-bearing wall than if it is a non-load-bearing wall, so a little bit more expensive.

    As long as there aren't pipes and wires and stuff in the direction you want to widen, you are okay. That stuff can be moved, but much bigger expense and hassle. Don't go there if you can possibly avoid it.

    You may or may not be able to do a sliding door, depending on what kind of space is available. My bathroom was widened and we have a regular hinged door, and it works but is sort of pain because the door is big and sticks into the bathroom and makes a pain of itself. You'll want to watch to make sure if you put a bigger door it doesn't create big getting-in-the-way problems. (Your curtain idea would resolve this.) MBR closet door was also widened, and it is fine because it opens into the room, not into the closet, and happens to open into a low-traffic area.

    FYI this project should be a pretty simple one for your average competent carpenter. Get some estimates. Still a pain and an expense though, and is what causes me to rant viciously about why wider doors are not standard in new construction.

    Good luck!

    Jen.
    Last edited by JentheMomPerson; 12-22-2010 at 12:36 AM. Reason: edited to fix the most egregious typo

  4. #14
    Widening a doorway (presuming nothing else is in the way) requires lengthening the header (concealed within the wall above the door frame), installing a new door and frame, and repairing the drywall. It's can be simple for a contractor. But if you're on a very tight budget, removing the existing frame is really cheap. (Simple removal will leave unfinished framing and drywall/plaster edges exposed. Save the door, and reinstall it if/when you sell the house.)
    Last edited by chasmengr; 12-23-2010 at 07:04 AM.
    Chas
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  5. #15
    Adding to the OP, because I was thinking about this the other day: When you widen the door, you'll be exposing a little spot of extra floor. Depending on what you find there (probably: bare subfloor), you'll need to make a decision about what you want to do with that spot. What is already in place at the existing threshold will probably guide you there on how to proceed.

    But go ahead and include that in what you discuss with the contractor, because you do have choices, and some are easier and cheaper than others.

    Do you own this place or rent it?

    Jen.

  6. #16
    Thanks everyone! My parents own the place. We do not want to do any MAJOR reonvations because the plan is to move to a bungalow within a reasonable amount of time and OT is just trying to make it work for now because I really need to get off my knees/shoulders.

  7. #17
    Senior Member jschism's Avatar
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    the doorway to my bedroom is at the end of the hallway and it was too small to go through in wheelchair. i just removed the door and frame as suggested earlier. it couldn't be widened because it is a load bearing wall. load bearing walls would need to be supported to have work done on those areas and then reinforced if any work is done to the load bearing wall, this can be pricey if a contactor will even do it. none would even do mine. also, you cannot put a pocket door in a load bearing wall

  8. #18
    Thanks JChism. I think we will try just removing the frame first

    WG

  9. #19
    Well... OT just left.. Looks as though doorway can and will be widened.

    WG

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by wheeliegirl2010 View Post
    Well... OT just left.. Looks as though doorway can and will be widened.

    WG
    great news!
    Chas
    TiLite TR3
    Dual-Axle TR3 with RioMobility DragonFly
    I am a person with mild/moderate hexaparesis (impaired movement in 4 limbs, head, & torso) caused by RRMS w/TM C7&T7 incomplete.

    "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but what I don't think you realize is that what you heard is not what I meant."
    <
    UNKNOWN AUTHOR>

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