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Thread: 17x17 85 Degree TiLite ZRva

  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by McDuff View Post
    Cool pics. That thing is RED. but does look good.

    Good shot of the tapered front end, gives me another view letting me know I like the V front end. Do you ever order the extra 1" on a chair over 16" deep? Don't remember seeing one of yours.
    I have only ordered on TiLite with a seat depth greater than 17". That was an 18" deep ZRa with an 85 degree front frame and FrogLegs for a veteran who was 6'2".

    Quote Originally Posted by fuentejps View Post
    sci otr, u recommend the bolt on sling seat, correct??
    fuente,

    I used to swear by tension adjustable by straps upholstery. I've noticed on some chairs, however, that there is room for one more strap and that part of it sags as a result. I do prefer it on a ZR because it can be used to make subtle adjustments in dump. Being able to easily remove the upholstery also makes it easy to polish up the entire frame on a regular basis or access components and fasteners on the frame with the upholstery off. On ZRa's, I'm starting to lean more toward bolt on upholstery because the ZRa's camber tube clamp results in more narrower straps than wide straps.
    Last edited by SCI_OTR; 02-01-2009 at 02:18 PM.

  2. #22
    mc, my zr is 85 w/ 16 deep w/ extra inch. i dident realize i had xtra inch until sci otr pointed it out.

    chick, i say the xtra inch helps w/ board transfers alot
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by SCI_OTR View Post
    Those are Top End forks. This chair was ordered in December before they added the latest options (including 1.5" poly casters). Here is a pic showing the difference in width between the TiLite double bearing fork which had been used through 2008 and the Invacare/Top End fork...



    Thanks SCI_OTR for the photo, you are very good.

  4. #24
    Senior Member DaleB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick View Post
    [...]
    Q: the C pkge ONLY allows the V frt, correct?
    [...]
    Do you have any images of a ZR with a 15" seat depth with a COG of ~3.25-3.5 ?
    I am curious where the wheels will be, in proportion to the seat, and how much room there will be in seat frt (corner, to allow positioning of transfer board, etc.).
    [...]
    The 'C' package allows for custom foot rest width, tapered seat and also the 'V' front end. You can have the C package for the seat tapering without having to conceded your desire for tapered (aka 'kinked') down tubes. However, if you're thinking of the C package for custom foot rest width the V front end is a requirement.

    eta: have you looked a Hype62's machine in this thread? It's a 16" deep ZR with 3.5" CoG which may give you an idea as to what a 15" deep seat would look like. Easy to chop one inch off in your imagination or in any photo editor, .
    Last edited by DaleB; 02-02-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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  5. #25
    so is mine. take a look
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
    ...if you're thinking of the C package for custom foot rest width the V front end is a requirement.

    eta: have you looked a Hype62's machine in this thread? It's a 16" deep ZR with 3.5" CoG which may give you an idea as to what a 15" deep seat would look like. Easy to chop one inch off in your imagination or in any photo editor, .
    I've already been using Hype's chair, as gauge, since it's most similar to my own measurements/needs (already had thread bookmarked ). I'm planning on using his Zr and SCi-OTR's chairs to compare, and likely superimpose my old chair to theirs to get a better sense of specs. I have always had 16" deep, but will need 15" now, but given that my current manual (Action Pro-T) may not measure the same as Tilite Zr, I'd like to know how a Zr with a COG of at least 3.25 will be positioned and how it may feel, as well as what might be room for transfer board on seat with/without extended 1" frame (appears ~ inch or so left, so ext frame may be necessary, tho not prefered). So anyway, I was curious if sci-otr or anyone has spec'd that and how that worked out.

    Re the 'C' pkg, yea, seems if I want anything less than 9", I'll have to settle for a V. In that case, I'm considering MAYBE then tapering seat to 14" frt., thus starting the V tighter. Anyway, just things I'm considering.

  7. #27
    Chick the 1" extra frame won't have anything to do with having enough room to put your slide board at the corner of the cushion. The seat cushion/sling will still be whatever you spec it's just the frame will go an extra inch out past what it normally does. So instead of the frame bending immediately at the sling on the 85 front angle, it will protrude out one more inch then bend down. The extra inch will just make frame itself longer and maybe less likely to tip forward or throw you out. But like I said I know you're concerned with having room to put your board...the extra inch won't affect seat cushion area at all.

    ...well cog confuses me so don't know if that will affect where cushion sits in relation to tires. On my Kuschall to change cog the seat itself moves back and forth, but on other wcs you reposition axle/wheels. lol i'm lost.
    Last edited by november; 02-05-2009 at 02:00 AM.
    Aerodynamically, the bumble bee shouldn't be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn't know that, so it goes on flying anyways--Mary Kay Ash

  8. #28
    chick nov, the xtra inch is key using a board. i actually jam mine under the cushion.. on my zr the board hits the side guard, not the wheel and my side guards are all the way back
    Bike-on.com rep
    John@bike-on.com
    c4/5 inc funtioning c6. 28 yrs post.
    sponsored handcycle racer

  9. #29
    Nov, I know that an extra inch of frame doesn't extend the seat base/sling. I am mostly concerned about how much the extra inch will help during transfers and maybe in supporting transfer board itself. I know it helps some, like fuentes, but I'm still not sure how/if it will be more functional for me. For example, as fuentes said, he places his board UNDER the cushion, so the added frame gives him the extra frame surface to support the board. For me, how I transfer, the type of board (I use triangular shape) and where I place it makes a difference. I place my board on top of cushion (roho), and the extended frame on my current chair doesn't aid in supporting board, even with ~ 2" out from base. If board moves or slips, that's usually it. Nevertheless, I was just thinking that an extra inch may be useful, just in case, possibly for the board and/or for me to push against when falling forward. But, if not functional for me, then I'd rather not have front end extending an inch out forward unnecessarily and prevent my getting even closer to transfer surfaces (also re my pref for taper frt). Anyway, my current pro-t extends waaay forward, so seat base and frt end angle will both effect how I sit and transfer significantly, so adding an inch will still be less than what I have, and I am thinking it may be better to have, than not.

    Just to add. that for others, their cushion itself, esp. if one has a solid cushion base which basically supports the board, may be most sig factor, not the frame ext. Like nov, you have a Nexus, and were concerned about going w/shorter base, but even if you go shorter (16 or 17"), your cushion depth will mostly determine support of a board.
    Last edited by chick; 02-05-2009 at 01:25 PM.

  10. #30
    I like this chair allot SCI_OTR. I will be seeing you on the 16th of this month about a new chair. I hope this one can work for me. I feel very lucky to get to work with you as it is more than obvious your the expert on chairs. Thank you for your time and service sir.
    "Live Life at Full Draw!"

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