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Thread: A cool and inexpensive way to add grip to your anodized rims

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by ac06
    I'm not sure how many variations of rubber splicing tape there are, or how many companies make them, but i used the 3m brand. It was really good stuff for splicing, because the raps kind of melted into each other, to were you couldn't see the wrap lines, and became water proof. It didn't turn into a oozing goo, but it did turn into a goo that was pretty much imposible to remove. I'm not sure how it acts at higher temperatures, but the SOP was that this stuff had to be double wrapped in regular electrical tape. I personally just have a bad feeling about this particular application, but maybe it will turn out to be a great product for this.
    Time will tell.

    Lowes also carried 3M's Scotch 2229 Mastic Tape which seemed closer to your decription. You're the electrician, however, so you may know something I may eventually discover for myself.
    Last edited by SCI_OTR; 08-11-2008 at 12:20 AM.

  2. #12

    Update. Somebody Else Has Got To Try This!

    Well, it's day three. The Scotch 2242 looked just like day one. No wear. No goo. No residue. My decision to place the tape along the inner aspect of the handrim did create a problem, however. The edge running around the circumference of the rim at the "equator" was causing some irritation to the base of my left palm.

    Tonight, I re-taped both rims placing it dead center around the most convex portion of the push rim. All I can say is WOW!

    The larger surface area of the NaturalFit combined with the added friction provided by the 2242 gave me even more grip than I have with a standard plastic coated push rim. This allowed me to go up and down the street faster than I ever could. What was even more amazing was that I could stop more-effectively as well! I could literally lock up the wheels on the pavement from top speed without burning my hands. I'm not sure if this had to do with the tape's rubber compound or if there was better dissipation of heat.

    The only issue I noticed about the new location was that the corners of the tape where the ends meet tended to catch on my hand every so often. Eventually, this would have caused the the tape to lift off of the rim. To smooth it out and keep the corners down, I put a small piece of regular electrical tape (1/2"Lx3/4"W) over the junction This solved the problem while still passing the appearance test.

    In any case, this has got to be the optimal push rim setup for my level of hand function. For other CC members it is definitely worth risking the $3.75 it costs for a roll of this rubber splicing tape. If it doesn't work, the adhesive will come right off with a little paint thinner.

  3. #13
    I definitely will try this as my hands are weak i;ve purchased a set
    of anodized naturalfit handrims but until now was reluctant to try them
    as even plastic coated ones slip unless my thumbs are right against
    the sidewall of tire and inner handrim

    now if there was only a way to tape the sidewall of the Schwalbes
    too as well as the top of the natural fit

  4. #14
    Senior Member DaleB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by triedandconvicted
    [...]
    now if there was only a way to tape the sidewall of the Schwalbes
    too as well as the top of the natural fit
    seems like the OP'ers idea would work just as well on the side wall. their marathon plus tire has a very tall sidewall with plenty of room for a little strip of rubber. it's ~3/8" taller than other tires of the same inner diameter.
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Daleb
    seems like the OP'ers idea would work just as well on the side wall. their marathon plus tire has a very tall sidewall with plenty of room for a little strip of rubber. it's ~3/8" taller than other tires of the same inner diameter.
    The same thing as triedandconvicted occurred to me, but this splicing tape is thicker than electrical tape. It can be applied smoothly longitudinally, but it would be difficult to curve around the sidewall of the wheel's rim. Mounting many small segments around the perimeter might work, but the corners might lift up fairly quickly and cause irritation.

  6. #16
    I applied the tape last night and it has made a big difference, especially in Miami's 127.43% humidity.

    Thanks!

  7. #17
    i got the tape at Lowes for 4 bucks Canadian,it goes on easy and bonds
    perfect

    i can stop on a dime and it allows me to use a way stronger push
    to accelerate

    and thats w no quad gloves , i can push better with bare hands on this tape
    than w gloves on

    it even works on plastic coated pushrims

  8. #18
    I just bought some tape today. To put on my glazed over push blacks. Anymore updates? How's the tape working out? I hope it works, push rims are way too expensive.

  9. #19
    the tape is staying on perfect,it gives me better push without gloves
    and braking is really faster

  10. #20
    It's about as durable as a foam covered push rim with respect to its susceptibility to tears as a result of contact with hard objects. It can be pushed down and smoothed out somewhat--unless the edge tears. In that case, it is necessary to trim away the rough portion with a razor blade.

    To make it less vulnerable, I re-taped my NaturalFits so that the strip runs back along the inside portion of the push rim closer to the tabs (like in the pic at the beginning of this thread). To provide some edge protection and create a smoother transition with the surface of the rim, I covered the very outer edge with some regular vinyl electrical tape. I then trimmed the most of the vinyl tape away so that there is only a ~1/2 cm strip left. This seems to be enough to keep the edge from irritating the base of my hand and prevents it from getting nicked. The width of the vinyl tape needs to be kept to a minimum because it generates about as much heat as a plastic coated rim. I wish I could post pics, but I'm in the process of moving and work is pretty hectic at the moment.

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