Adapted Camera??

[martymar]

Hi I'm a c5-6 quad with no finger movement, I have always liked taking pictures but Because of my fingers I can't operate a camera. Does anybody have an adapted camera? If so how is it set up??

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[SCI-Nurse]

I know several people at your level who have made the following modifications:

Use a monopod and adapt it to fit on your chair by attaching to a plastic piece that you can put under your thighs, or invest in a tripod made specifically for this purpose (Access to Recreation is a resource for this).

If you are using an SLR, put a heavy rubber band around the appeture adjustment ring to allow you to adjust with the side of your hand.

Attach a bulb type cable release to your shutter release. When taking pictures, hold this in your mouth and bite down to release the shutter (have not seen a digital camera you can do this with yet...has anyone else?)

(KLD)

[weekender410]

As for mounting, check out http://bogenphoto.com and look at their articulated arms. These would be nice to allow you to get the camera in front of your face. Although the Magic Arm has a fairly stiff locking lever (I think that could be adjusted) the single lever locks the "wrist" joint at each end and the elbow in the middle. The other arms have three independent locks. Look at this http://www.bogenphoto.com/fileindexednew/module2/item/file0003824.gif This one has a quick release so the camera can be slipped in and out easily. It will support more than 8 pounds so with a small compact sort of camera the tension on the lock could be adjusted to make it easier to operate.

Most digital cameras, if they have a remote shutter release at all will use a wireless infrared controller. The problem is that alot of them are intended only to be used from in front of the camera. Look for a camera that has a sensor on the back as well. In conventional 35mm cameras, Pentax has a number of compact cameras with a rear mounted sensor.

I would consider mounting the infrared release on something with a bit of velcro. Don't mount it on the camera or the arm. Perhaps a larger button could be devised or you could poke the button with a pencil eraser. Keep in mind that eventually the battery in the remote will need to be changed so don't glue it down permanently.

Another thing to consider is digital video. These cameras can take stills and the remote will have controls for the zoom lens. Also the LCD screen can be turned so that the camera doesn't need to be up in front of your face to see it. (if you are considering digital still cameras, think about where the camera has to be so that you can see what you're photographing.) Digital Video does not have resolution as high as some still digital cameras but it's pretty good. You have the option to shoot regular video as well and you can download the video to your computer and edit it if you want.

Look at Canon's digital video cameras. Canon offers optical image stabilization which greatly improves picture quality (even with stills). Digital image stabilization is offered by other manufacturers but by the nature of the way it works the stabilizer reduces image resolution a bit. The Canon cameras use Mini-DV tapes. The standard tapes are 60 minutes. A still image is recorded for 6 seconds. If all you did was shoot stills that would let you record 600 pictures on a tape.

Back to still digital, consider what the storage media is. How many pictures would you take on an outing or a vacation? Can you afford the number of memory sticks required? Or would you be carrying a computer into which to down load the images?

Lots to think about. Hope it didn't make you decide to take up stamp collecting instead

[Scott Pruett]

Originally posted by SCI-Nurse:


Attach a bulb type cable release to your shutter release. When taking pictures, hold this in your mouth and bite down to release the shutter (have not seen a digital camera you can do this with yet...has anyone else?)

(KLD)

yeah, in the digital point & shoot realm check out the nikon coolpix 880/885/990/950/995/5000 - all can use a remote. it controls zoom & other fxns too so i'm not sure about the mouth trick, but it's worth looking at.

dSLRs, check out the canon D30/D60/1D - expensive digital SLRs but can use a cabled remote system to control the shutter release. regardless of the price these cameras take better pictures than any professional E6 film I've seen, but ya pay for it http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

I own a canon Elan 7e film SLR, 50mm f/1.8 & 70-200 f/4 L lenses, w/ a remote release that works great - I'm c6/7 & use the mouth trick for AF & shutter control. any questions feel free to email or IM me.

www.usa.canon.com (http://www.usa.canon.com) (canon main site)
www.powershot.com (http://www.powershot.com) (canon digital photography site)
www.nikonusa.com (http://www.nikonusa.com) (nikon main site)

[Rand]

I have a C6 injury with out finger movement. When I want to take a picture I set the camera on my lap, and press the timer button. Then hold the view finder to your eye, and tell them to say cheeze. Try to keep your fingers out of the way.

Rand

[Lizbv]

I am a c5/6 and I have the Sony cybershot dsc-s50 camera, it has a flip up lcd screen that makes it more convienient for me to see things. However, in the sun its kind of hard. Any suggestions on this issue?

Also, do you know if I could find a remote for this camera? Currently I set my settings/ then put on the timer and point. Sometimes I have trouble with correct exposure, due to moving the camera.

I no longer use a 35mm, but I used to use a cable w/ tripod to shoot stil pics. That worked well. The best advice I have is just mess around feeling and lifting cameras to see wat works best for you. They are all different. I have tenodisis on the right and this allows me to hold my camera, as it is a fairly thick camera.

I love to shoot, and the spring season is near! I only wish there was more time in the day. http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

[weekender410]

Liz, those little LCD screens are tough to see in daylight. About the only thing you could do is make a hood to go over it to keep the sun off the screen. A hood could be a simple thing made of black mat board with taped seams so it folds flat to store in the case.

As for a remote, your camera might be able to utilize an IR remote but as far as a cable release is concerned I expect your outta luck.

You say you have trouble with exposure due to camera movement. Is the problem blurring or actual exposure problems with the picture being too light or dark? If it's blurring you could put the camera in the shutter priority mode and set the highest shutter speed you can for the light conditions. Of course this will reduce depth of field.

If the problem is actually exposure related and your pics are too light or dark then you need to try to find a way to lock the exposure. I'm not sure if you can do that with this camera, though.

Spring is indeed a great time to get out and shoot. I hope you can and have fun with it.

[Lizbv]

Originally posted by weekender:


Liz, those little LCD screens are tough to see in daylight. About the only thing you could do is make a hood to go over it to keep the sun off the screen.

my lcd isa good 3-4''. good size. unfortunately, one downside to having a viewscreen. however, now that I'm thinking, what about a rubber viewer, similar to those on 35mm. im dreaming, but possibly a good invention.

As for a remote, your camera might be able to utilize an IR remote

Do you mean Infarred remote? Theres Gotta be somethin~

You say you have trouble with exposure due to camera movement. Is the problem blurring or actual exposure problems with the picture being too light or dark?

Is both. I hit the timer (shutter) button to activate it and then unfortunately need to move the camera to re position on the object (whater I'm taking pic of). This doesnt happen all the time, mainly in extreme light. (bright, or low level darker). It also depends on what the light exposure and apeture(sp) settings are.

If the problem is actually exposure related and your pics are too light or dark then you need to try to find a way to lock the exposure.

good point. i think i can, will check

Spring is indeed a great time to get out and shoot. I hope you can and have fun with it

There is an Arboretum up the street from me click here (http://www.metroparks.org/Facilities/Cox_Arboretum___Gardens_MetroP/cox_arboretum___gardens_metrop.html) which I go to very often. I will most likely go here tmmrw. Thanks for your help. http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

[This message was edited by Lizbv on Mar 29, 2002 at 01:47 PM.]

[weekender410]

Hi Liz, sorry, didn't mean to insinuate that it was tiny, I just meant that the small ones aren't that bright. Have you ever seen a professional television camera? Especially at a football game you'll see they have a three-sided hood over the viewing monitor. That's what you need for your camera.

Yes, IR= infrared. I did a quick search while I was typing this morning but couldn't find any reference to your camera having a provision for an IR remote. Still, it might be an option.

As to your exposure problem, it might be that the exposure is actually locked at the time you start the timer. Of course you can probably see the problem. The scene presented to the camera at that point is different than the one you're actually taking a picture of. Perhaps we need to work out a different way for you to get that timer started so that you don't have to reposition the camera. A remote would be better for this since you can trip the shutter exactly when you're ready and not 10 or 12 seconds in the future.

I'll fire up the old brain box. If I can get all the synapses firing, maybe I'll come up with an idea for you. e-mail me?

By the way, that arboretum looks like a good place to make photos.

[Lizbv]

thanks weekender! http://sci.rutgers.edu/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif

[weekender410]

My pleasure. Have you looked at the user's manual for your camera to see if there is a provision for a remote? If not, I'm thinking that a Bogen Magic Arm mounted onto your chair to support the camera might be the way to go. Perhaps you could then have the camera pointed in the right place before you hit the shutter release. Another thought that kind of adds to that is to find an old style air release (which is what the "bulb" stting on your old SLR was named for). Prehaps the end that is supposed to be attached to the camera could be modified with a small clamp so it could be attached to the camera over the shutter release button. The squeeze bulb could be mounted btween to lightweight boards that are hinged together like a book. The boards could be long enough to give you extra mechanical advantage which would let you apply gentle pressure to trip the shutter with out wiggling the whole chair.

If you want I could sketch something out for you. If you were to e-mail me I'd send the sketches.

Spring's probably bustin' out all over down by you. There's no time to waste.